scratched glass

ctkecth

Member
My kids decided to help with aquarium matinence and scratched the glass using the magnets that I have. Gravel was between glass and scrubber magnet- anyway to buff these out?
 

pacino

Member
it must be acrylic i am assuming, anyway yes they do sell kits to take care of those. i think the one i bought from my lfs was from sea clear, which was the maker of the tank i had scratched. it actually worked really well, there are like 8-10 grades of sand paper and you just go step by step, at a certain angle you can see were it was done, but with water in it and the light on looks good as new. just follow the instructions to a "t" and you should be alright. actually now that i think about it the most important thing to do is pick a space maybe in the back or on the top and try it, so you can get it down. sorry i dont have the name, but just ask your lfs or surf the web. there is definitely kits out there. good luck!
 

phixer

Active Member
If its acrylic it can be removed most of the time if its glass your stuck with it sorry... Well there is hope read on.
 

turningtim

Active Member
Do a search on here for scratched glass. I believe there is a company called janco or something similar that has a inexpensive kit to remove scratches from glass. Somebody did use it and said it took some time but it did work.......
HTH
Tim
 

phixer

Active Member
Its called Cerium oxide AKA (jewelers rooge) (spelling sorry) its also used for fine optics, telescopes, mirrors etc. Glass can be polished but wont yeild the same effects, try it though and you'll see what I mean. Anyhow its also used by jewelers to polish gems. Good luck. Let me know how it turns out for ya.
 

turningtim

Active Member
Its not a rouge I don't think. Look it up if you have a min. On the site they advertise for commercail window fronts and such. they sell a small DIY kit that uses several abrasive disks and some kind of solution. As I remember the person that used on their tank said it did'nt completely do away with all the scratches but shallow ones where gone.
I'll try and find it.
I'd be interested in what you think Phixer. I've tried several compounds on a spare tank with no luck.
Tim
 

phixer

Active Member
Hi Tim, there is hope.
Removing scratches from glass is not impossible its just a PITA. If the scratch is deep enough it could seriously jeoparodize the materials ability to withstand pressure. I love to talk about this kind of stuff but should probably stop because I tend to be long winded. The lense used in the Hubble space telescope was polished to exacting standards but since we just need to remove a few scratches I dont think its impossible :hilarious as long as their not too deep go Id do it. Toxicity :notsure:
Anyhow there are a few polishes that might be safe, they usually consist partially of finely ground diamond dust. If fine enough some mediums can have similar effects as asbestos if inhaled. Maybe he could drain the tank and give it a try. If the scratches are long and shallow the process can be successful. What do you think?
Have you had a chance to read this? The only part I disagree with is the use of #40 , #4 is superior IMHO.
http://www.tanked.netfirms.com/acrylic.html
Phixer
 

turningtim

Active Member
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/204734/glass-repair-not-a-myth-in-my-opinion
Heres the link from here and lists the company name. Thats a very interesting article. I'm a glass man but have thought about a large acrylic tank. I just worry b/c I have to kids. (scratching). But lots of valuable info. Thank you.
Whats funny is that my LFS had one of their 75's pop a seam lucky they were there. Local manufacturer too. I guess the tank was several years old but still very scarey.
Thanks again
Tim
 

turningtim

Active Member
Honestly Phixer I'm afraid of making a big tank with acrylic. Its a one time shot. I've made small tanks for sumps,fugs and OF's but just don't have the confidence to try a tank. Right now I have a 120 glass tank in my shop that I still need to put together. Thinking 200+ next year so maybe by then I have the you know whats to try acrylic.
When he's talking #40 is that really thick stuff? I use #4 and then #16 to run the joints just in case.
Tim
 

phixer

Active Member
Your a smart guy and Im sure more than capable. #40 is a two part cement. Its strong but will not dissolve the acrylic and melt/weld it like #4 will. It is used by some companies that produce large numbers quickly because its more forgiving of imperfect mating surfaces. The edges of my tanks are prepared with a CNC milling machine and the job wont go forward until its smooth as well.....glass with no pitting. Like a good paint job, surface prep is one of the most important considerations when joining acryic.
Anyhow Ive jacked the thread long enough always like talking with ya Tim, your one of the sharpest ones here.
Phixer
 
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