Seahorse help?

dave96z34

New Member
Hey my names Dave i'm from Connecticut.
Little background I have a 29gal tank I started 6 months ago. All the fish are local right off my dock Iv had great luck with it.
I keep the tank at 61 the river right now is 38 and im still seeing the same fish off the dock.

28 days ago I was pulling up my eel trap was shocked to see a seahorse on the outside hanging on to the trap. I was lucky I had my bucket handy.
Put him in the tank with the others all vary community no aggressive. Had a really tough time getting him to learn to eat frozen mysis. Was wicked excited when he finally started eating.
I'm pretty sure hes a male.
Today 28 days in I noticed his pouch was inflated like was carrying eggs or he has a gas issue. Hes also keeps rapid changing his color to bright orange then back to brown. Iv never seen him ever change his color ever. Hes usually vary happy swims all over likes the lean on other fish on the bottom or grab there tails. Sucks up about a dozen shrimp 2 times a day. He had an obsession with the air stone so I had to hid it. Does he have an infection or is this gas in his problem or eggs? Should I isolate him?









 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi, Welcome to the site!!!

Wow what a story...LOL...I think the little guy looks prego to me, and if he is eating and swimming...that's most likely the case. A gas problem means they can't swim and stay at the top of the tank, changing color is normal for them. They are not aggressive, but even non-aggressive fish eat too fast to leave much for the seahorse to eat. As long as he gets enough food (congratulations on getting it to eat frozen by the way) I guess he is happy enough in your tank. They do like cold water, 74 seems the optimum temp. Seahorses are very susceptible to bacterial infections.

The bubble line is good, and seahorses like to play in the bubbles...I have two air lines running in my seahorse tanks (no air stone)
 

dave96z34

New Member
Turns out had an issue with nitrite and nitrate creeping up on me. I changed 15 gal yesterday and another 10 today. levels are still off. I use the water off my dock that test perfect. Maybe another 10 tomorrow. I run two filters a tara 20-40 and Aqueon 30 not ideal but I was hopping the gravel would grow some by now. I had a Seaclone skimmer but the micro bubbles were flooding the tank was annoyingly loud too. So what would be a good setup live rock and live sand? I was debating doing a 10 gal sump tank.

Good news
Hes looking great today Bopping around the tank. His belly is allot smaller. Hes back to brown happy self. I may have to give his own tank with a few small fish. The other fish are pigs and they eat his shrimp and I end up putting too much in.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave96z34 http:///t/396738/seahorse-help#post_3534922
Turns out had an issue with nitrite and nitrate creeping up on me. I changed 15 gal yesterday and another 10 today. levels are still off. I use the water off my dock that test perfect. Maybe another 10 tomorrow. I run two filters a tara 20-40 and Aqueon 30 not ideal but I was hopping the gravel would grow some by now. I had a Seaclone skimmer but the micro bubbles were flooding the tank was annoyingly loud too. So what would be a good setup live rock and live sand? I was debating doing a 10 gal sump tank.

Good news
Hes looking great today Bopping around the tank. His belly is allot smaller. Hes back to brown happy self. I may have to give his own tank with a few small fish. The other fish are pigs and they eat his shrimp and I end up putting too much in.

Hi,

His own tank with some compatible tank mates would be ideal, you can look up the compatibility chart here on the site, under the seahorse and pipefish section. The secret to keeping seahorses IMO, is macroalgae...the stuff grows and absorbs nitrites, ammonia, nitrates and phosphate out of the water using it to grow, then when you trim up the macros new growth and remove it, you are removing those things from the system, keeping the water pristine.

The Cyclone skimmer is garbage as you have found out. I keep Kuda seahorses in a 56g tall tank, I only have a HOB filter, and 2 air bubble lines. I used dried dead rock and Roman columns for decoration, with dried sand. The idea was to not have any bad hitchhikers, so using everything dried prevented any dangerous critters from being introduced. The macros made keeping parameters a snap. There is no skimmer on that tank, and it's been up and running for 2 years now.
 

dave96z34

New Member
I split my fish to two tanks to try and cut down on the other fish antagonizing him. I got 30lbs of beautiful live rock and my tank is starting to end cycling I hope. Under advice of the local reef store they said take the heater out he will do fine. Tanks new average is temp 60deg. The rivers in the low 40s

Today I come over to the tank to see him with his face shoved in a hole on live rock not moving. I thought he was dead I taped the glass nothing I reached in and poked him he started swimming around vary lethargic. Was he sleeping I didn't see his gills moving? Hes not eating as much as he used too as-well.

Should I get the lights on a timer set them to like a 12 hour cycle?







The tiny fluk is a little Photo Bomber always comes to the glass when he see's people.
I can't wait to get rid of the blue rock.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave96z34 http:///t/396738/seahorse-help#post_3535243
I split my fish to two tanks to try and cut down on the other fish antagonizing him. I got 30lbs of beautiful live rock and my tank is starting to end cycling I hope. Under advice of the local reef store they said take the heater out he will do fine. Tanks new average is temp 60deg. The rivers in the low 40s

Today I come over to the tank to see him with his face shoved in a hole on live rock not moving. I thought he was dead I taped the glass nothing I reached in and poked him he started swimming around vary lethargic. Was he sleeping I didn't see his gills moving? Hes not eating as much as he used too as-well.

Should I get the lights on a timer set them to like a 12 hour cycle?








Hi,

First and foremost ... NEVER...EVER...ask the LFS for any advice. Not on fish, equipment or additives. Just go there to get what you already know you want or need.

The seahorse is lethargic? What kind of seahorse...it looks like a Kuda in the picture, that's a tropical species. Are you saying that you have this seahorse in an UNCYCLED tank?... Or ...Are you saying you are setting up another tank, and it's not ready yet?


My Potbelly seahorses stay at 65 degrees, they are a cold water seahorse. TROPICAL seahorses should stay at 74 degrees, dropping it down to 68 would be alright but 60???? I don't know, that's pretty cold. What your fish needs is a steady temperature and parameters, SW critters don't do well with changes, they come from the ocean, and are used to very stable conditions.

Never tap the glass on a fish tank, or poke your fish. ...

Some common seahorse behavior:
Seahorses do sleep quite sound, I wait an hour after lights on to feed them
, so they are all awake. They shove their heads in the rocks and sit real still, in hopes of nabbing a yummy amphipod...LOL...That's how they hunt. When a seahorse gets afraid (like when your big head is looking at them) they kind of hug the rocks or whatever hitch they are on... then play stone statue and won't move...Hoping that you don't see them. They are masters at hiding in plain sight, and are very good at looking just like the rocks, that's also why they change color.

The lights are only important to corals, fish don't really care. As long as the fish can see to eat, and are able to distinguish day from night...you are all set. I turn on my lights when I get up (7:00 to 8:00am) and turn them off around 5:00pm, sometimes I don't turn the lights out until 7:00pm...but a regular cycle isn't necessary, it's a personal choice, as long as you don't have algae issues you can run the lights for 12 hours on and 12 hours off if you like.
 
S

saxman

Guest
Dood...your SH is a male, and he looks pregnant. Pregnant males often (esp. erectus) tend to tend to "go shy" and will often go off their feed a bit. I'd be getting my nursery equipment and fry rearing skills ready if I were you.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/396738/seahorse-help#post_3535265
Dood...your SH is a male, and he looks pregnant. Pregnant males often (esp. erectus) tend to tend to "go shy" and will often go off their feed a bit. I'd be getting my nursery equipment and fry rearing skills ready if I were you.


I thought it was pregnant as well, but he said it lost the heaviness and was "back to normal" post #4...so the possibility was dropped.

Is 60 degrees too cold for it? I ask because I'm pretty sure it's a tropical species (Kuda). I know temps can be dropped when a horses is sick, but 60 seemed way too cold.
 

dave96z34

New Member
Hes doing great! He just wasn't awake fully I guess he was sleeping when I came home. Hess bopping all over the tank today ripping around, leaning on his friend the flat fish and ridding the bubbles.

I think he will be fine at 60 the river never really gets too hot in the summer maybe 75 at the surface and drops like a stone deeper you get. Today its was 27F

Yes I'm having trouble getting the tank to finish its cycle. I cut the load of fish in half so tank has more time to adapt. Today's test is the best its ever been.

Tank current last water change was 50% at 15 days.
Nitrate 20 ppm Okay Best its ever been
Nitrite 2 mg/L Stress Lowest its been in over a month
alk 40 ppm low Normal for the river
ph 7.2 low but seems normal for river

Today river low tide 27F
0
0
40 Norm for river
7.4 high for low tide possibly due to road salt

My 10gal hospital tank with 3 large aggressive fish and a small hunk of live rock running 20 days
0
0.5
40
7.3
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Hi,

Where are you, that you have a saltwater river? What the river does, has nothing to do with your seahorse anymore. Keeping an optimal temperature is essential for SW critters in a tiny tank (all tanks are tiny compared to the ocean they came from). I suppose as long as you don't have an ammonia reading, the fish can survive...putting some macroalgae into the tank will help stabilize the parameters. PH is fickle...it's lowest in the morning, and highest at lights out...test your water later in the day, if it is still below 8.0 you have a problem. using a hydrometer...what is the SG?
 

silverado61

Well-Known Member
Dave:

You really need to get everything live out of that tank, change the rock to sand and start the cycle over. I tried crushed coral in my first tank which is certainly better than your colored rock. Had a mini spike that I thought was a full spike. Thought it was finishing it's cycle so I added fish and a cuc. Then BAM! The full spike hit and nothing survived. Nothing. If/when it spikes again, everything alive in there will surely parish.

Plus, and trust me on this one, you need to listen to every bit of advice and help that saxman and Flower are offering you. If anyone knows what they're talking about when it comes to Seahorse's, it's these two.

Have you ever caught or even seen Seahorses in this river before? If you have, I'd start buying lottery tickets if I were you. Sounds like a fluke. Are you close to an inlet from the ocean?
 
S

saxman

Guest
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flower http:///t/396738/seahorse-help#post_3535289


I thought it was pregnant as well, but he said it lost the heaviness and was "back to normal" post #4...so the possibility was dropped.

Is 60 degrees too cold for it? I ask because I'm pretty sure it's a tropical species (Kuda). I know temps can be dropped when a horses is sick, but 60 seemed way too cold.
I obviously missed that, Flower. Altho it certainly was ACTING pregnant. It could have been displaying for the female, or its owner...they fill their pouches with water to say "lookee here...I've got a HUGE pouch to hold eggs...let's get busy!"

I agree...60*F is too cold for kuda...I'd go 65*F at the lower end for tropicals. That will likely affect the SH activity level due to slowing its metabolism.
 
S

saxman

Guest
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxman http:///t/396738/seahorse-help#post_3535309
I obviously missed that, Flower. Altho it certainly was ACTING pregnant. It could have been displaying for the female, or its owner...they fill their pouches with water to say "lookee here...I've got a HUGE pouch to hold eggs...let's get busy!" That being said, SH generally give birth in the wee hours of the AM, and they're often sucked into the filtration system, and unless you've been looking for them, they may all be gone. Most peeps put a sponge over the intakes when they have a pregnant male that's close to popping.

I agree...60*F is too cold for kuda...I'd go 65*F at the lower end for tropicals. That will likely affect the SH activity level due to slowing its metabolism.
 

dave96z34

New Member
Flower
I live on the mouth of the Thames river Groton CT the water is slight brackish depending on the tide. Center of the map. http://goo.gl/maps/0f560
The ammonia levels are good so macroalgae may be the way to go.

Is there any way I can phase the blue rock out with out having to set up another large tank?

silverado61
No he the first iv never seen one but they are known to be on the coast about a mile away.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave96z34 http:///t/396738/seahorse-help#post_3535321
Flower
I live on the mouth of the Thames river Groton CT the water is slight brackish depending on the tide. Center of the map. http://goo.gl/maps/0f560
The ammonia levels are good so macroalgae may be the way to go.

Is there any way I can phase the blue rock out with out having to set up another large tank?

silverado61
No he the first iv never seen one but they are known to be on the coast about a mile away.

Changing the substrate is tricky, a great deal of the good bacteria is on it, and your tank is already unstable. I would wait until things settle down before going for a change. I personally think you should set up a nice 10g QT and get it cycled (toss in a chunk of raw shrimp), after that you can switch the seahorse to that tank while you work on the display, and get it fixed the way you want it.

You won't stress the horse out moving his world around while he panics, and it will give you the freedom to set the display up just the way you want it, with no worries of releasing toxins or removing the good bacteria...once it's all done ghost feed a week, and test it out to make sure parameters are good before returning the horses to it.


The QT is really easy....match the SG of your display. No substrate, leave the bottom bare. get a nice decoration, even fake plants and add some macros (keeps parameters stable) for the horse to hitch to. You only need an airline, no stone, to move the water...attached via rubberband to the decoration, to hold it to the bottom of the tank. Use a little HOB filter and use filter material from the display.
 

silverado61

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave96z34 http:///t/396738/seahorse-help#post_3535321
Flower
I live on the mouth of the Thames river Groton CT the water is slight brackish depending on the tide. Center of the map. http://goo.gl/maps/0f560
The ammonia levels are good so macroalgae may be the way to go.

Is there any way I can phase the blue rock out with out having to set up another large tank?

silverado61
No he the first iv never seen one but they are known to be on the coast about a mile away.
Now I'm jealous. I live about 2 miles from Lake Michigan by the Wisconsin/Illinois border. SNORE
 

dave96z34

New Member
Update
Tank temp is actually about 70deg My digital coralife thermometer is so far out of cal its trash..
He's doing vary good my Nitrate and nitrite levels are almost 0 my ammonia is also undetectable.
I put more live rock and some macro algae.
I need a bigger tank thats the next step. All set it up and cycle it proper first this time.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave96z34 http:///t/396738/seahorse-help#post_3535716
Update
Tank temp is actually about 70deg My digital coralife thermometer is so far out of cal its trash..
He's doing vary good my Nitrate and nitrite levels are almost 0 my ammonia is also undetectable.
I put more live rock and some macro algae.
I need a bigger tank thats the next step. All set it up and cycle it proper first this time.

LOL...As time moves forward you will find that all things Coralife is TRASH. They went out of business years ago, another company sells the stuff that was left over... and I personally think it's leftover because it was garbage to begin with, and why they went out of business in the first place.
 

dave96z34

New Member
The poor guy has some form of pectoral fin rot going on tip of it turned white and starting to fall off. I'm warming up the water for a hospital tank right now what products work best? All try to get a picture of get a pic of it
 
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