Should I Or Should I Not?? Purchase A Tiny Blue Tang!

[ohiorn67]

WELL MY LFS just got in 3 tiny little blue tanks about an inch or so long...oh my gosh, the cutest boogers!! All 3 are surviving well...one is not as great as the other 2. The lfs has them all in the same tank. I noticed that the one I would choose is scratching himself a bit on the rock. I don't see any huge ick issues YET, but these have just come. Honestly the one I like was quite spunky. I asked the owner if he would acclimate them with some ick treatment..answer was NO. EWWWWW I want one but so concerned. I know I will quarrantine in a small tank but should I waste my moolah on this fish? What should I look for..etc...he says they eat well, he was busy so I did not ask to see, but would before purchase. What are the odds with it being so small it will do ok?

 

[who dey]

give them a couple days they will have ich. those tiny blues seem to be popular these days. i saw them at a LFS near me probably 10 of them came back 2 days later they were covered. they are very vulnerable at that young age. i would get one a bit larger or keep monitoring their progress

 

[scubadoo]

As these animals grow they require at least 6 feet of swimming space. Do you have or plan on getting a tank at least this size? If not, do noy buy the animal as you are unable to provide a tank suitable to adulthood.
It is small now but will grow quickly. Also, sounds like the system they are in may have parasites. These animals are prone to ich as they easliy can attach themslves to their body.

 

[ohiorn67]

Hi, thanks for the advice, I have a 90 gallon tank now and trying to purchase a 1 inch tang with the knowledge that I will be upgrading to at least a 135 within the next year. I am keeping my bioload low in this tank purposefully to be able to care well for a small tang until the upgrade, but thanks for the concern. I figured they will be very suseptible to the ich which is the biggest concern to me. Does anyone know the survival rate of these tangs so small?

 

[who dey]

as far as survival rates... just seems to me it would be like a child without a parent facing every element the earth has to offer. sounds stressfull and chances of survival are minimal but i may be wrong i'm not a fish. in your 90 i would hope you have some serious flow that could be intimidating to the tiny fish... to me it just doesn't sound like a good idea. the tiny's are neat i was gonna get one but i got to thinking

 

[scubadoo]

Amongst the more difficult marine fishes to keep is the Powder Blue Tang. Yes, though it is amongst the most commonly offered species of Surgeonfishes you see at retail fish stores, this Indian Ocean beauty rarely lives for more than a few days to weeks in captivity.
It is likely a host of contributing factors that make Acanthurus leucosternon such an easy-dying species for aquarists. The fish takes a beating being held and shipped from such long distances through the chain of custody to the "end user". It is also one of the species of fishes that has a large (dozens to hundreds of square meters) territory in the wild and doesn’t take well to the "small clear boxes" which are our tanks. Lastly, this is clearly a "grazing" species that samples algae and related benthic infaunal organisms on a continuous basis during the day, and frequently succumbs to a lack of nutrition.
However, there are some "success stories" with the Powder Blue and some solid points to make that greatly increase ones chance of keeping it in an aquarium. Here I’d like to offer my observations, accumulated first and second-hand experience with what DOES work in maintaining Acanthurus leucosternon alive and well.
Selection:
Bad specimens of A. leucosternon are easy to spot. Most have darkened blue body areas, perhaps with a white "stress" bar, torn fins, and other evidence of accrued shipping and handling damage. Decent specimens are harder to assess. These all have the quality of "brightness", that is, clear eyes, constant movement and an awareness of your presence. "Spaced-out" specimens should be left.
Index of fitness is a fisheries term for the "fullness" of fish bodies. It’s quantified as the circumference of an animal divided into its length. Specimens with a higher value are obviously fatter than ones with lower indices. You want to select for a Powder Blue that is not too thin, particularly in the upper body area (the flank, up and behind the eyes). Skinny specimens rarely recover.
Some "flashing" or scratching is to be expected of all specimens, but this should not be excessive. Nor should respiration be labored or too frequent. About sixty gill movements per minute are what you are looking for.
Newly arrived specimens are better to sort amongst other than longer-on-hand ones. Like most marine livestock, and particularly Acanthuroids, Powder Blues are "starved out" for a few days ahead of shipping to reduce in-transit pollution in their shipping bags. Unfortunately this starvation can be persistent once the animals are received and shipped through wholesalers, jobbers to your LFS or etailing supplier. Buy or special order "fresh" A. leucogaster and promptly take them home, quarantine and place them.

 

[scubadoo]

Opps..not my words but the word of an expert...cut and paste earlier.

 

[scubadoo]

More words from Bob Fenner.....
Quarantine:
Powder Blues are one of the notorious "ich magnet" species of Surgeonfishes, and should definitely be quarantined for at least a two-week period of time before being introduced to the main/display tank. Even then, they will be amongst the first to show signs of pathogenic or environmental disease should something be amiss.
If you’d like, do consider adding a prophylactic freshwater dip/bath (of a few minutes duration) to the acclimation to quarantine process. It’s advisable to add Methylene Blue to the pH-adjusted freshwater to both increase its capacity for oxygen holding as well as calming the dipped specimen.
Aquariums: Size, Type and Time
This is a wide-ranging, fast-swimming vigorous fish that needs plenty of room. The smallest tank I recommend for their keeping is one hundred gallons. At full potential size of about a foot in length, this would only be six times the length of the fish… not too much to ask for.
Acanthurus species do best in reef aquariums, or at least ones with plenty of healthy live rock. Powder Blues will not survive in a sterile "fish only" setting. About tank shape, less "show" and more "standard" tank dimensions are preferable. Lots of rock to graze on, zoom about is of more use than the room to swim up and down.
The age of the system is important on two principal counts, maybe three. More aged systems are best because they will be more stable chemically and physically, as well as likely having more filamentous algae to graze on. By waiting for six or more months before introducing your Powder Blue, you are likely placing it as your last fish, the proper order of introduction.
Water Quality:
Organics should not be allowed to accumulate in this fish’s tank. Amongst reef fishes that "show" signs of nitrate et. al. concentration, Powder Blues rate up near the top. Oversized filtration, circulation, aeration and skimming, along with the use of quality salt-mix (e.g. Instant Ocean, Reef Crystals, Tropic Marin) and regular water changes are necessary. Nitrates should not exceed any more than 10 ppm; pH should not be allowed to drop below 8.2.
Temperature can play a pivotal role in Powder Blue health. They are happiest in warm water, something in the low 80’s F. If yours shows signs of disinterest in feeding, consider elevating the tank temperature.
Foods/Feeding:
Nutrition or should I state, a lack of nutrition is likely the principal cause of loss of this species in captivity. Too often specimens arrive too starved to recover and/or are placed in circumstances where they cannot sustain themselves. It may seem counterintuitive but there is reason to believe that supplying a "fully nutritional" staple food is of at least as much benefit as being conscientious about having greenery available at all times. I have seen very healthy Acanthurus leucosternon that have been fed only on "Spectrum" (New Life International, Inc.) foods for instance.

 

[who dey]

i believe ohio was refering to a hippo. but great powder info. i feel individual results can vary in this hobby

 

[scubadoo]

Originally Posted by WHO DEY
i believe ohio was refering to a hippo. but great powder info. i feel individual results can vary in this hobby
Opps..think you are right.....not my word but Bob Fenners.

 

[ohiorn67]

Hi guys, GREAT info, but yep, was thinking of a hippo tang, my fault, I should have been more direct. These are tiny hippo tangs.....so far no heavy or fast breathing, one of them did not look as good as the others, but the one I Like looked great, feisty...and not too skinny or anything, he was actually picking at the others a bit...even though he was the smallest. I do have lots of great flow in my 90 and 130 lbs of live rock....so I think it would be a good match. They also had a nice about 2 1/2 inch or 3 purple tang I am thinking about. Also they got a sailfin about 2/3 inches and a gorgeous sohol tang, which I do know get huge. this one is about 4 inches now......but knowing I am upgrading thinking about it.....already have been posting for used tank in the classified section of this site...no takers yet to sell....

 

[scubadoo]

Add the sohal last.....mean boggers. I have one now for about 6 years.

 

[murph145]

i had bought a 1" hippo blue tang about 5 months ago..... he is was the cuttest thing.... soi small and colorful..... cost $20 so anyways he is now about 4" in length..... hes doing great now.... in the beggining i did not realize that these tangs need to eat a mixed diet of algaes green and red.... meaty food with added vitamins ...... they like a lot of rock work to hide in too when new they are scared at first and at night they sleep in small spaces.....
since i didnt feed him the appropriate foods at first he got lateral line and fin errosion.... once i supplemented his diet his fins have completely regrown and the lateral line is probably 90% better than before.... hes a very active and attractive fish .... just make sure u have good water quality a uv sterilizer is also good for these fish.... keeps the water clean of bugs..... also that u give him a well supplemented diet with vitamin enriched mysid shrimp along with some algae based frozen foods....

 

[scubadoo]

Originally Posted by murph145
i had bought a 1" hippo blue tang about 5 months ago..... he is was the cuttest thing.... soi small and colorful..... cost $20 so anyways he is now about 4" in length..... hes doing great now.... in the beggining i did not realize that these tangs need to eat a mixed diet of algaes green and red.... meaty food with added vitamins ...... they like a lot of rock work to hide in too when new they are scared at first and at night they sleep in small spaces.....
since i didnt feed him the appropriate foods at first he got lateral line and fin errosion.... once i supplemented his diet his fins have completely regrown and the lateral line is probably 90% better than before.... hes a very active and attractive fish .... just make sure u have good water quality a uv sterilizer is also good for these fish.... keeps the water clean of bugs..... also that u give him a well supplemented diet with vitamin enriched mysid shrimp along with some algae based frozen foods....
You are on the right track as a healthy diet with vitamins can reverse HLLE disease. I also suggest you add some macroalgae to the diet. If you have a refugium set-up grow some in there and supplement the diet with the macro. many sudies out there that suggest a refugium with macro growing and supplmenting the diet with same will reverse HLLE.

 

[murph145]

:yes:
yeah only if i had of known that before
but at least hes doin better now.... i bought some macro to put in the tank he doesnt bother with that nor does he bother with seaweed.... he likes to eat the formula 1 (red)
and formula 2(green) make sure it contains garlic that is also good for them....

 

[scubadoo]

Originally Posted by murph145
:yes:
yeah only if i had of known that before
but at least hes doin better now.... i bought some macro to put in the tank he doesnt bother with that nor does he bother with seaweed.... he likes to eat the formula 1 (red)
and formula 2(green) make sure it contains garlic that is also good for them....
You can buy seaweed select sheets or sheets of nori and place it on a clip for a few hours. Eventually they will tear it up. Greens are an essential part of their diet....so make sure you give them plenty as a regular part of their feeding.

 

[murph145]

yeah i have the seaweed sheets but he doesnt really like those doesnt pay much attention to it.... my other fish make more of a mess with it then anything then i have to pick it out.... i supplement every other day one day with vitamin enriched mysid/brine the next day a frozen formula 1 cube then meatys again then a formula 2 cube and so forth so that way each day is different in nutrients

 

[bobothewizard]

Originally Posted by ScubaDoo
Amongst the more difficult marine fishes to keep is the Powder Blue Tang. Yes, though it is amongst the most commonly offered species of Surgeonfishes you see at retail fish stores, this Indian Ocean beauty rarely lives for more than a few days to weeks in captivity.

Not sure where you got this information but ive had one for years now. I personally think he was the easiest to keep next to the yellow tang.

 

[bobothewizard]

Forgot to answer the main question. IF you want it buy it.
If you dont kill it someone else will.

 

[ohiorn67]

thanks for at least most of the replies!! I think I am heading the direction to purchase. I have read alot on these tangs also and will make sure I get the right foods and nutrition, my biggest concern are my mated maroon clowns, they are piggies and I want this guy to have a chance to eat! Once again, my Lfs gives me different info every time. first he tells me if he can get the tinies, they will be about 21.....of course they are now 34.00....always changing the prices day to day in there and that is my biggest offense in shopping there.
My water quality is great now...had a few bumps early on but all seem to be nice and consistent now. I think I am going to bite the bullet and buy one...he will keep it up to a week for me, so I can watch his health. He recommends cause these guys are so small to do a direct acclimate not a quarrantiine, I hesitate. His reasoning is you invite stress 2 more times with change instead of once ....I am not sure about this, I have read that if a fish has ick, not necessarily will the others get because it would be the immune system of the stressed fish that would be the problem..that they all have some ick but it is controlled when not stressed. So, shall I risk a spot directly in my tank? my other fish are pair of maroon clowns, 6 line wrasse and a bicolor blenny.....all are doing very well.