snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Cyanobacteria is one of the oldest living organisms on Earth. It was first created 4.4 Billion years ago! It's been around so long, that it does something very unique: It produces and consumes it's own fertilizer! That's right! No matter how many water changes you do, cyanobacteria will keep producing it's own nitrate to live off of. That is why it's been trouble for many aquarists over the years. If you are reading this, then I'm assuming you have a cyanobacteria problem. You've come to the right place!
Cyanobacteria need a few things in order to survive: Moist/wet place, light source, nutrients, and low flow. As aquarists, we have total control over the conditions of our aquarium. Because of this, cyanobacteria is something that can be conquered. First of all, here are a few guidelines to start with that every aquarist should already do:
1. Start the aquarium with a high grade salt, with pure water from a Reverse Osmosis Unit or from distilled water. There are several pure water supply places... they include Wal-Mart, a water store, or even from your own purchased Reverse Osmosis unit.
2. Only use pure water, distilled or RO for your top off water. Salt does not evaporate, so only add freshwater to your saltwater aquarium when the water level gets low.
3. Feed high quality foods. Frozen foods are considered “gourmet” while pellet foods would be considered “fast food” and flake food is considered “potato chips.” The quality of your food should be high so you feed less.
4. Rinse all of your frozen foods in a net/mesh to get the “juice” out which only contributes to nitrate and phosphate.
5. Use a light timer on a set schedule.
Here's a few things you can do to overcome cyanobacteria:
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The most significant thing you can do is add more flow to your tank. Add a powerhead that blows across the tank and the afflicted area. This will keep the cyano from being able to be formed properly, and it keeps detritus from building up and from food getting caught in it. Flow is the most important part about the treatment of cyano.
[*]
Decrease your lighting schedule. Usually, most aquariums, including reef aquariums do very well with just 8 hours a day of light. (10 hours if you include actinic dawn and dusk features.) Put your lights on timers. If you can, reduce your lighting as much as you can.
Do proper, scheduled water changes to reduce your overall nitrate and phosphate levels.
Use a turkey baster to suck up and/or blast cyano off your rocks and substrate. It's better to remove the cyano from the tank, rather then blasting it around. Therefore, it would be better to suck it into the baster rather then blow it off the rocks.
Use an algae scrubber to scrub your water clean. The cleaner your water, the less nutrients algae, cyano, and other nuisances have to grow.
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[*]
Use a protein skimmer that will remove particulate organic matter before it has a chance to break down into nitrate and phosphate. The cleaner your water is, the less chance it has to grow nuisances.
[*]
Gravel vac your crushed coral on a regular basis. You would be surprised how much waste it builds up over time. This waste can contribute to excess nitrate and phosphate.
If you have a small outbreak, consider using an antibiotic product, and read and follow the directions very carefully. By using an antibiotic on tanks that are extremely afflicted, it has been known to cause tank crashes.
Feed less food for a few weeks. Your fish and corals will be fine.
Cyanobacteria need a few things in order to survive: Moist/wet place, light source, nutrients, and low flow. As aquarists, we have total control over the conditions of our aquarium. Because of this, cyanobacteria is something that can be conquered. First of all, here are a few guidelines to start with that every aquarist should already do:
1. Start the aquarium with a high grade salt, with pure water from a Reverse Osmosis Unit or from distilled water. There are several pure water supply places... they include Wal-Mart, a water store, or even from your own purchased Reverse Osmosis unit.
2. Only use pure water, distilled or RO for your top off water. Salt does not evaporate, so only add freshwater to your saltwater aquarium when the water level gets low.
3. Feed high quality foods. Frozen foods are considered “gourmet” while pellet foods would be considered “fast food” and flake food is considered “potato chips.” The quality of your food should be high so you feed less.
4. Rinse all of your frozen foods in a net/mesh to get the “juice” out which only contributes to nitrate and phosphate.
5. Use a light timer on a set schedule.
Here's a few things you can do to overcome cyanobacteria:
[*]
The most significant thing you can do is add more flow to your tank. Add a powerhead that blows across the tank and the afflicted area. This will keep the cyano from being able to be formed properly, and it keeps detritus from building up and from food getting caught in it. Flow is the most important part about the treatment of cyano.
[*]
Decrease your lighting schedule. Usually, most aquariums, including reef aquariums do very well with just 8 hours a day of light. (10 hours if you include actinic dawn and dusk features.) Put your lights on timers. If you can, reduce your lighting as much as you can.
Do proper, scheduled water changes to reduce your overall nitrate and phosphate levels.
Use a turkey baster to suck up and/or blast cyano off your rocks and substrate. It's better to remove the cyano from the tank, rather then blasting it around. Therefore, it would be better to suck it into the baster rather then blow it off the rocks.
Use an algae scrubber to scrub your water clean. The cleaner your water, the less nutrients algae, cyano, and other nuisances have to grow.
li>
[*]
Use a protein skimmer that will remove particulate organic matter before it has a chance to break down into nitrate and phosphate. The cleaner your water is, the less chance it has to grow nuisances.
[*]
Gravel vac your crushed coral on a regular basis. You would be surprised how much waste it builds up over time. This waste can contribute to excess nitrate and phosphate.
If you have a small outbreak, consider using an antibiotic product, and read and follow the directions very carefully. By using an antibiotic on tanks that are extremely afflicted, it has been known to cause tank crashes.
Feed less food for a few weeks. Your fish and corals will be fine.
