snakeblitz33
Well-Known Member
Lighting an aquarium is probably the most challenging thing for a new hobbyist to do. There are so many different types of lighting units and so many different opinions on what is suitable and what is not for a reef tank that it can be very confusing. Well, I am here to untangle this web of information that you have been reading through.
First, lets define a few key terms that will help you understand lighting better.
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Wattage Rule – This rule no longer holds water, so to speak, since the advent of LED lighting. So, it’s better to keep in mind cost vs. effectiveness.
[*]
PAR – Photosynthetically Active Radiation is a term used to describe the intensity and spectrum of light that most corals and other photosynthetic invertebrates can use. The higher the PAR value, the better for corals and inverts that need high lighting conditions.
[*]
Lumens – Lumens measure the brightness of an object for human eyes. It's not the amount of light produced by a candle, it's the brightness of a candle to a human eye. This is why it's only loosly coupled with PAR. Example, the par from an actinic light can be10 times that of an incandescent bulb and yet the incandescent will appear 10 times brighter. This is because human eyes do not see 420nm very well but they see yellow light really good. (Bang Guy)
[*]
Retrofit – This means that you buy a kit and you have to do all of the electrical work to get the lights to fire. It does not come in a fixture and is meant to be hung inside a pre-made canopy.
There are many different types of lights available for purchase in the saltwater aquarium hobby. Each one of them have their benefits and detriments which will be discussed in detail later on. The list is in no specific order as to intensity, or ability to support life.
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Metal Halides
[*]
LEDs
[*]
T5
[*]
VHO
[*]
PC
[*]
NO
[*]
CFL
Metal Halides
Pros:
They provide a wide spectrum of light and have different spectrums to choose from, anywhere from 10k all up to the blue 20k spectrum.
Very intense light produced
Shimmer effect
Effective for reef tanks over 27” tall.
Come in two different bulb types, mogul base and HQI
Used mainly for tanks with LPS, SPS corals, anemones and clams
[/list type=decimal]
Cons:
Cost a fair amount of money to buy and run.
They produce a lot of heat and have to be well ventilated
Can sun-burn new corals
[/list type=decimal]
LEDs
Pros:
They provide a wide spectrum of light
They are just as intense as metal halides with less heat generated
Fully customizable with a controller
[*]
Dimmable
[*]
Shimmer effect
[*]
Can last 10 years without replacing the bulbs
[*]
Good units are used to light a variety of reef tanks that include all types of corals, anemones and clams.
Cons:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
They cost a lot of money to get started.
[*]
In non-DIY applications, replacing a bulb is impossible.
[*]
Some units are sold as “reef capable” when they are anything but
T5
Pros:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Spectrums are customizable
[*]
Don’t produce a lot of heat like LEDs and Metal Halides do
[*]
Come in a variety of sizes
[*]
Easy to Retrofit
[*]
Have great PAR values
[*]
If multiple pairs of bulbs are used, they can be used to keep any coral, clam or anemone alive.
[*]
Great if used for supplemental lighting for metal halides as well
Cons:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Bulbs have to be replaced anywhere from 8 months to 1 year or they will lose spectrum.
[*]
Produce a fair amount of heat and have to be ventilated.
[*]
If bulbs don’t have individual reflectors, it will dramatically reduce PAR values
[*]
No shimmer effect
Standard bulbs should be replaced with brand name bulbs to get better PAR values.
VHO
Pros:
Great for soft coral aquariums
Has the potential to keep LPS and anemones alive if used in multiple pairs.
Great for fish only with live rock aquariums
Great supplemental lighting if used in conjunction with metal halides.
Can be easily retrofit
[/list type=decimal]
Cons:
They cost a little bit to get started.
The bulbs cost a little more than T5s
No shimmer effect
Should buy brand name bulbs for higher PAR values.
Becoming not as common in the saltwater hobby.
Bulbs should be replaced every 8 to 12 months.
[/list type=decimal]
PC (Power Compacts)
Pros:
Great for fish only with live rock applications
Great for growing macroalgaes
Great for soft coral aquariums if used in pairs.
Can be easily retrofit
[/list type=decimal]
Cons:
Absolutely does not provide enough light for clams, anemones, LPS and SPS corals.
Can cost a bit to get started, as does everything else.
Bulbs need to be replaced every six months
[*]
Bulb cost is about the same as T5s
NO (Normal Output)
Pros:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
You can pick them up at almost any hardware store as T8 bulbs. Be sure to buy 10k bulbs.
[*]
Do not use a lot of electricity
[*]
Do not produce a lot of heat
[*]
Great for lighting a fish only tank
[*]
Cheap to buy
Cons:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Not for use in reef aquariums
Bulbs need to be replaced every six months
Do not come in actinics at the hardware store
CFL *(Compact Fluorescents AKA curly-Q bulbs)
Pros:
Great for lighting refugiums
Great for lighting algae scrubbers
[/list type=decimal]
Cons:
Never to be used to light a display tank
Should be replaced every 2 ½ to 3 months to retain efficiency, intensity and PAR values.
[/list type=decimal]
In summation:
Metal halides – needed for livestock with high lighting needs such as LPS, SPS, Anemones and clams. Also used in applications where the aquarium is taller than 27”.
LEDs – needed for livestock with high lighting needs as well as low lighting needs, depending on the application. Can support life for soft corals, LPS, SPS, Clams and Anemones.
T5s – multiple pairs of T5s can be used for livestock with high lighting needs such as LPS, SPS, Clams and anemones. Two bulbs in a shallow tank is perfect for soft corals and fish only with live rock tanks.
VHO – Great for supplemental actinics with metal halides. It’s starting to become an outdated technology. It can support the growth of most corals, clams and some anemones.
PC – Great for some soft coral applications, but also especially good for macroalgae display tanks or even macroalgae refugiums. They simply do not put out enough light to keep SPS, Clams and Anemones alive long term.
NO – Normal Output – Great for fish only and fish only with live rock applications. They are cheap to buy, cheap to run, and cheap to replace.
This is only meant as a guideline. Each individual tank has their own needs based upon your chosen livestock. Lighting is perhaps one of the biggest investments a reef aquarist will make for their aquarium, and everything should be taken into consideration when choosing a unit. Also... I preach use your common sense.
If you would like to read more of my articles and threads, please visit this link: Snake's Methods.
First, lets define a few key terms that will help you understand lighting better.
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Wattage Rule – This rule no longer holds water, so to speak, since the advent of LED lighting. So, it’s better to keep in mind cost vs. effectiveness.
[*]
PAR – Photosynthetically Active Radiation is a term used to describe the intensity and spectrum of light that most corals and other photosynthetic invertebrates can use. The higher the PAR value, the better for corals and inverts that need high lighting conditions.
[*]
Lumens – Lumens measure the brightness of an object for human eyes. It's not the amount of light produced by a candle, it's the brightness of a candle to a human eye. This is why it's only loosly coupled with PAR. Example, the par from an actinic light can be10 times that of an incandescent bulb and yet the incandescent will appear 10 times brighter. This is because human eyes do not see 420nm very well but they see yellow light really good. (Bang Guy)
[*]
Retrofit – This means that you buy a kit and you have to do all of the electrical work to get the lights to fire. It does not come in a fixture and is meant to be hung inside a pre-made canopy.
There are many different types of lights available for purchase in the saltwater aquarium hobby. Each one of them have their benefits and detriments which will be discussed in detail later on. The list is in no specific order as to intensity, or ability to support life.
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Metal Halides
[*]
LEDs
[*]
T5
[*]
VHO
[*]
PC
[*]
NO
[*]
CFL
Metal Halides
Pros:
They provide a wide spectrum of light and have different spectrums to choose from, anywhere from 10k all up to the blue 20k spectrum.
Very intense light produced
Shimmer effect
Effective for reef tanks over 27” tall.
Come in two different bulb types, mogul base and HQI
Used mainly for tanks with LPS, SPS corals, anemones and clams
[/list type=decimal]
Cons:
Cost a fair amount of money to buy and run.
They produce a lot of heat and have to be well ventilated
Can sun-burn new corals
[/list type=decimal]
LEDs
Pros:
They provide a wide spectrum of light
They are just as intense as metal halides with less heat generated
Fully customizable with a controller
[*]
Dimmable
[*]
Shimmer effect
[*]
Can last 10 years without replacing the bulbs
[*]
Good units are used to light a variety of reef tanks that include all types of corals, anemones and clams.
Cons:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
They cost a lot of money to get started.
[*]
In non-DIY applications, replacing a bulb is impossible.
[*]
Some units are sold as “reef capable” when they are anything but
T5
Pros:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Spectrums are customizable
[*]
Don’t produce a lot of heat like LEDs and Metal Halides do
[*]
Come in a variety of sizes
[*]
Easy to Retrofit
[*]
Have great PAR values
[*]
If multiple pairs of bulbs are used, they can be used to keep any coral, clam or anemone alive.
[*]
Great if used for supplemental lighting for metal halides as well
Cons:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Bulbs have to be replaced anywhere from 8 months to 1 year or they will lose spectrum.
[*]
Produce a fair amount of heat and have to be ventilated.
[*]
If bulbs don’t have individual reflectors, it will dramatically reduce PAR values
[*]
No shimmer effect
Standard bulbs should be replaced with brand name bulbs to get better PAR values.
VHO
Pros:
Great for soft coral aquariums
Has the potential to keep LPS and anemones alive if used in multiple pairs.
Great for fish only with live rock aquariums
Great supplemental lighting if used in conjunction with metal halides.
Can be easily retrofit
[/list type=decimal]
Cons:
They cost a little bit to get started.
The bulbs cost a little more than T5s
No shimmer effect
Should buy brand name bulbs for higher PAR values.
Becoming not as common in the saltwater hobby.
Bulbs should be replaced every 8 to 12 months.
[/list type=decimal]
PC (Power Compacts)
Pros:
Great for fish only with live rock applications
Great for growing macroalgaes
Great for soft coral aquariums if used in pairs.
Can be easily retrofit
[/list type=decimal]
Cons:
Absolutely does not provide enough light for clams, anemones, LPS and SPS corals.
Can cost a bit to get started, as does everything else.
Bulbs need to be replaced every six months
[*]
Bulb cost is about the same as T5s
NO (Normal Output)
Pros:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
You can pick them up at almost any hardware store as T8 bulbs. Be sure to buy 10k bulbs.
[*]
Do not use a lot of electricity
[*]
Do not produce a lot of heat
[*]
Great for lighting a fish only tank
[*]
Cheap to buy
Cons:
[list type=decimal]
[*]
Not for use in reef aquariums
Bulbs need to be replaced every six months
Do not come in actinics at the hardware store
CFL *(Compact Fluorescents AKA curly-Q bulbs)
Pros:
Great for lighting refugiums
Great for lighting algae scrubbers
[/list type=decimal]
Cons:
Never to be used to light a display tank
Should be replaced every 2 ½ to 3 months to retain efficiency, intensity and PAR values.
[/list type=decimal]
In summation:
Metal halides – needed for livestock with high lighting needs such as LPS, SPS, Anemones and clams. Also used in applications where the aquarium is taller than 27”.
LEDs – needed for livestock with high lighting needs as well as low lighting needs, depending on the application. Can support life for soft corals, LPS, SPS, Clams and Anemones.
T5s – multiple pairs of T5s can be used for livestock with high lighting needs such as LPS, SPS, Clams and anemones. Two bulbs in a shallow tank is perfect for soft corals and fish only with live rock tanks.
VHO – Great for supplemental actinics with metal halides. It’s starting to become an outdated technology. It can support the growth of most corals, clams and some anemones.
PC – Great for some soft coral applications, but also especially good for macroalgae display tanks or even macroalgae refugiums. They simply do not put out enough light to keep SPS, Clams and Anemones alive long term.
NO – Normal Output – Great for fish only and fish only with live rock applications. They are cheap to buy, cheap to run, and cheap to replace.
This is only meant as a guideline. Each individual tank has their own needs based upon your chosen livestock. Lighting is perhaps one of the biggest investments a reef aquarist will make for their aquarium, and everything should be taken into consideration when choosing a unit. Also... I preach use your common sense.
If you would like to read more of my articles and threads, please visit this link: Snake's Methods.
