Starting new after a loss with some questions.

elliemaybe

elliemaybe

New Member
Now that my first horse was claimed by flesh erosion bacteria I have an opportunity and time to make a fresh, and better informed, attempt at keeping a healthy horse. I have some questions in my head that I'd like to know if anyone could take a crack at. I'm open to all suggestions.
I bought this tank just for the seahorse and cycled it with the ls/lr.
My Tank
12g nano deluxe and the lighting/canister filtration that comes with it
3 lbs live rock
1 1/2 in live sand (over 5lbs)
1 peppermint shrimp
1 yellow gorgonian
1 feather sea star
4 crabs/4 snails
We test for nitrate/nitrites, ammonia, ph, salinity and temp.
With the urgency of the disease, we set up a small hospital tank with furan II as the med of choice. It's only 5g with nothing but some fake plants to hitch on and gravel to hold the plant down.
Here are my concerns:
1) Will letting the primary tank run with no fish for a month be sufficient for whatever bad bacteria was in there to be gone with no fish to host on? This is what the LFS guy said but I'd like a second opinion.
2) Is there something else I should do or add to the tank other than let it run empty before I attempt to add new fish?
3) I'd like to QT my new horse before I add him to the primary tank but I'm not sure how to cycle it and keep it cycled with no lr/ls. I've heard of adding a dead shrimp but not sure of the details.
4) When I bring a new horse home to QT, do I need to add anything to the water to prevent any illness or do I just watch him for 2-3 weeks to make sure he's perfectly healthy before I add him to the primary tank?
5) I'd like to get 1 seahorse and 1 pipefish but am unsure of the type bec. I'm now reading that 12g is kinda small. What do you suggest?
Okay, whew. Sorry for all the questions but I was devastated after I lost my horse and I never want to put another horse through that with my ignorance. Thank you for all your responses and help~Jennifer
 
reefnutpa

reefnutpa

Member
Just my opinions based on my experiences keeping/breeding seahorses over the years:
1. Letting the tank run empty for a month will not eliminate pathogens from the tank. The only way to be 100% sure a new seahorse would not be infected is to tear down the tank and sterilize the equipment and sand, recycle using new live rock. It is a huge hassle, which is why QT tanks are so important before adding livestock to a main tank.
2. If sterilizing the tank is not an option, massive weekly water changes will greatly reduce the risk of other seahorses being affected by any previous illness.
3. I use large Hydro sponge filters on all QT tanks, fry tanks and juvie tanks. They are great biological filters once they are cycled.
4. Depending on the source of your new seahorses, nothing needs to be done in advance. Just observe the seahorses to ensure they are eating properly and aren't losing weight. There are times it's advisable to de-worm the seahorses, however, if buying true captive bred seahorses direct from a breeder that is usually not necessary. It's during this time you should observe the seahorses for any odd discolorations or pigment changes (some of which may be normal - or could be the start of something more sinister).
5. Since seahorses do best in pairs (either male/female, female/female, male/male) yes, 12gal is really too small for an adult pair. They are very social creatures and enjoy interaction with their 'mate'. The 'all-in-one' kits usually run hot and keeping temps at 74F or below is quite the challenge without modifying the tank and/or adding a small chiller (Ice Probe or such). If you are set on trying seahorses again, IMO you will have the most success setting up a more appropriate seahorse tank. Also, it is not advisable to mix wild caught pipefish with captive bred seahorses. It rarely ends well.
Tom
 
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