Sump/Plumbing Advice

[domfrombmore]

I have recently started setting up a sump for my tank. I am stuck on what I should do for my return line plumbing. I am using a mag drive 5 pump. It has a 1/2 inch outlet. I was thinking of hard lining some of it so i can use a valve and check valve right after the pump and then go to 1/2 inch flexible tubing to the tank. My question is do you think 1/2 cpvc and 1/2 tubing will be to narrow for the return line. Any help would be great. Thanks.

 

[saxman]

1/2" return is fine for a Mag 5. however, i never use check valves...all you need to do is make sure you have enuff room in your sump to handle whatever backsiphon you have upon power-off (make sure you use siphon break holes in your return fittings). relying on a check valve can get you into just as much, or more trouble, as they can, and do fail as well.
if you REALLY want to use a check valve, just get a threaded one and use a 1/2" MPT hose barb on the "tank side" and whatever length

[hr]
you need on the "pump-side" plus a 1/2" FPT coupling.

 

[beaslbob]

I agree you don't need a check valve. If the return line end above the diaplsy water line or you drill small holes above the water line, that will prevent power out reverse flow to the sump.
I use the mag 5 also and found that by using 1" return lines I got much more flow to the tank.
I also use short lenghts of flexible tubing on the pump intake and exit to prevent vibration shocks to the pump.
Finally I forgot to check overflow failures. So I now fail the overflow and insure the sump runs dry before the display floods.
my .02

 

[saxman]

whatever length

[hr]
you need on the "pump-side" plus a 1/2" FPT coupling.
sheesh...on a site where plumbing is often discussed, it's pretty lame not to be able to type the word n.i.p.p.l.e without going into gyrations...pffft

 

[acrylic51]

I agree to certain degree on check valve use. They can and do work, but what happens is over time they fail to completely close, and therefore gives a false sense of security. They also restrict some flow as well. Personally if I were going to use a check valve, I would invest in a quality check valve that is rebuildable, and I would use the ones that are union fitted. With threaded you could suck air at that point or some people have issues with getting them to seal. Slip/Glue is easy and with unions complete removal makes it nice and then with them being rebuildable an added plus. You can also get them in clear where you can actually see if it is or isn't closing during your routine maintenance.
As far as plumbing I would use regular PVC vs CPVC. On that note as well I would opt to bump up to 3/4" vs 1/2" as well, better flow. And the point made earlier about leaving enough room in the sump is correct, but at times we all have over filled the sump during maintenance, and a added safety measure would be to drill a syphon break hole in the return line just under the water line inside the tank.