Sweatervest's 125g reef build!!

[sweatervest13]

Well it is finally time for me to start putting together my new (used) 125g tank and stand. This is a tank and stand that I got off of CL with the idea that I will take my time and do it right. First thing frist there will be pics of the tank and stand as it sits right now in my garage, I just gotta get home first and take em. LOL
The stand was homemade by the guy I bought it from and looks pretty solid (after all it was holding the 125 for years before I got it), but I still think that it needs a bit of reinforcing and definitely needs to be water proofed. What is the best product to use to paint the inside of the stand? I have heard of people using Killz but I don't know what kind to use. I am open to suggestions.
The stand will hold the 125g that measures 72" X 18" X 24" I think this is the standard size. So it is long and narrow. The stand has nice support on the 4 corners and a middle support as well, it was bulit with 2x4's and screws.
I think that it needs some extra 2x4's to brace the top right now it is just a rectangle box. Also this top portion where the tank sits is open, there is no plywood on top. Does it need a plywood top??
What do most of you out there skin your stands with?? Plywood?? I was thinking of using Oak Plywood around 3/4" thick. Does this sound good?
I am going to flip the back and front of the stand and make the old back the new front as it is kind of open right now. The more I type the more I realize that pics are much needed to explain better, let me see if the wife can help me out while I am at work. Any advice anyone can give me on this is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Ryan.

 

[sweatervest13]

 

[sweatervest13]

Thanks to the wife!!! She was able to take and post some pics while I am at work. I know the stand looks kinda jankey right now. I plan on taking the plywood off the back where you can see it open and that will be the front of the stand. I want to take it off the sides as well and put on the Oak plywood. Again, any input or advice is welcome!!!

 

[sweatervest13]

I removed all the sheathing/ plywood from the stands frame. Now i just have the frame ready to be skinned. I do have two questions that I would LOVE to get a response on.
What kind of paint is best to paint the inside of the stand to make it water proof? Kilz? If so, what kind of Kilz? Second, Should I skin the stand first then waterproof it or just waterproof the frame?
I really want to make some headway on this project this weekend so if anyone can respone that would be great!!

 

[rslinger]

I think a good latex paint works just fine.... And yes I would skin it first. I just did one and used the thin 1/4 oak and it worked great. I could post some pictures later if you like when I get to a real computer.

 

[2quills]

I would add some cross pieces to your frame work on the stand. One thing about dimensional lumber, especially most common 2x4 is that heat and humidity will cause them to want to warp over time. Adding some cross supports will help to keep your frame, glueing and screwing all of your joints will help keep it from racking in the long run. Personally I would go with 1/2" ply or 3/4 depending on how you plan on mounting the hinges for your doors.
As far as your paint...killz is a primer and goes on before you paint to help ensure that the wood is sealed and that you get a proper bond with the paint. Even a good exterior grade paint will break down from moisture and u.v. over the long run. I would skin it first and then seal all of your corners and joints so that no moisture can penetrate and reach bare wood. Waterbased latex is fine but doesn't provide a very durable surface. Oil based is a little better. I actually went with a two part urethane enamel paint on mine. It cures hard like epoxy, the surface is like glass and is used in marine applications so I don't ever plan on having to paint mine or worry about it breaking down durring the lifetime of my stand. What ever is in your budget will work.

 

[sweatervest13]

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/385156/125g-stand-reinforcement-and-skinning#post_3377212
I would add some cross pieces to your frame work on the stand. One thing about dimensional lumber, especially most common 2x4 is that heat and humidity will cause them to want to warp over time. Adding some cross supports will help to keep your frame, glueing and screwing all of your joints will help keep it from racking in the long run. Personally I would go with 1/2" ply or 3/4 depending on how you plan on mounting the hinges for your doors.
As far as your paint...killz is a primer and goes on before you paint to help ensure that the wood is sealed and that you get a proper bond with the paint. Even a good exterior grade paint will break down from moisture and u.v. over the long run. I would skin it first and then seal all of your corners and joints so that no moisture can penetrate and reach bare wood. Waterbased latex is fine but doesn't provide a very durable surface. Oil based is a little better. I actually went with a two part urethane enamel paint on mine. It cures hard like epoxy, the surface is like glass and is used in marine applications so I don't ever plan on having to paint mine or worry about it breaking down durring the lifetime of my stand. What ever is in your budget will work.

Thats B.A. So, just put a regular waterbased latex paint on the ********? That makes sense. I am going with a 3/4" blonde plywood to skin it. I will skin it then (from what it sounds like not completely water proof it, but get it pretty good) paint the inside of it with a white waterbased latex. Then I need to figure out what kind of stain/paint to put on the skin. I would like something darker like a nice dark cherry, but what ever will looke best. I bought some molding to put on the top of the stand and some base molding to put on the bottom. Tomorrow I plan on being pretty productive and getting it skined, molded and the inside painted with a waterbased latex paint. Maybe get it stained.
I am very excited about this project and want to do it right. Any advice is GREAT!

 

[2quills]

Quote:
Originally Posted by sweatervest13 http:///forum/thread/385156/125g-stand-reinforcement-and-skinning#post_3377461
Thats B.A. So, just put a regular waterbased latex paint on the ********? That makes sense. I am going with a 3/4" blonde plywood to skin it. I will skin it then (from what it sounds like not completely water proof it, but get it pretty good) paint the inside of it with a white waterbased latex. Then I need to figure out what kind of stain/paint to put on the skin. I would like something darker like a nice dark cherry, but what ever will looke best. I bought some molding to put on the top of the stand and some base molding to put on the bottom. Tomorrow I plan on being pretty productive and getting it skined, molded and the inside painted with a waterbased latex paint. Maybe get it stained.
I am very excited about this project and want to do it right. Any advice is GREAT!
I would get an exterior/latex paint. It will hold up a little better. Personally, I would seal all of the inside corners and cracks with caulk and make it waterproof, yes. What you have so far looks great btw.

 

[sweatervest13]

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/385156/125g-stand-reinforcement-and-skinning#post_3377495
I would get an exterior/latex paint. It will hold up a little better. Personally, I would seal all of the inside corners and cracks with caulk and make it waterproof, yes. What you have so far looks great btw.
Again, an exterior latex paint makes sense. I will pick some up this week. Do your recommend any particular type of caulk? I am no DIY pro but I usually get an A for effort.
I did a bunch today and got all of the skin on it and have doors cut but need to figure out how I want the hinges. The opening for the door is a litte smaller (1/4") then the door. I think I might need to do something that mounts outside and can be seen. The hinges that came with the stand before I tore it apart are that kind but IDK if I like them. I do already have them though, so maybe I can spray paint them to look silver ish. Any suggestions for how to mount the doors?
I still need to put the trim on and trim out the doors (not sure how exactly to do this but oh well I will figure something out) then paint ********, stain/paint. Any advice on paint/stain for the outside??? Also, do I put like a clear coat on it after?? Really leaning on people that have done this before for advice on this project.
Thanks.
Ryan.

 

[2quills]

Quote:
Originally Posted by sweatervest13 http:///forum/thread/385156/125g-stand-reinforcement-and-skinning#post_3377673
Again, an exterior latex paint makes sense. I will pick some up this week. Do your recommend any particular type of caulk? I am no DIY pro but I usually get an A for effort.
I did a bunch today and got all of the skin on it and have doors cut but need to figure out how I want the hinges. The opening for the door is a litte smaller (1/4") then the door. I think I might need to do something that mounts outside and can be seen. The hinges that came with the stand before I tore it apart are that kind but IDK if I like them. I do already have them though, so maybe I can spray paint them to look silver ish. Any suggestions for how to mount the doors?
I still need to put the trim on and trim out the doors (not sure how exactly to do this but oh well I will figure something out) then paint ********, stain/paint. Any advice on paint/stain for the outside??? Also, do I put like a clear coat on it after?? Really leaning on people that have done this before for advice on this project.
Thanks.
Ryan.
What I did on mine was prime the inside of the stand and canopy, then I applied a 15 year latex caulk and painted 3 coats over that. Stain color is personal prefference ofcorse but I've found that a good quality of stain is best. Minwax, I don't like. Cabot is a better stain, or if you want something nice go to like sherwin williams or a good wood craft store and try out some of their premium stains. The difference in the final product is worlds apart from other stains. I would recommend a polyurethane finish for it's durability, probably 2-3 coats. And if you can, don't try to rush it and do it all in one weekend. Things need time to cure properly.
Sounds like you're going to need to stick with flush-mount hinges for those doors. They're not cut wide enough for concealed hinges.

 

[sweatervest13]

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/385156/125g-stand-reinforcement-and-skinning#post_3377681
What I did on mine was prime the inside of the stand and canopy, then I applied a 15 year latex caulk and painted 3 coats over that. Stain color is personal prefference ofcorse but I've found that a good quality of stain is best. Minwax, I don't like. Cabot is a better stain, or if you want something nice go to like sherwin williams or a good wood craft store and try out some of their premium stains. The difference in the final product is worlds apart from other stains. I would recommend a polyurethane finish for it's durability, probably 2-3 coats. And if you can, don't try to rush it and do it all in one weekend. Things need time to cure properly.
Sounds like you're going to need to stick with flush-mount hinges for those doors. They're not cut wide enough for concealed hinges.
Prime the inside let dry, then caulk all the cracks and gaps, let dry, then add like 2 or 3 coats over that. If I buy exterior latex primer, can I just use that for all coats?? Or should I do primer then base paint? I would like save some money and just get one.
I am going to take your advice and take it slow. I will try to get the first coat on the inside tonight and if it drys quick maybe get the caulk in the gaps. I figure that I will get the inside done then work on the outside stain. I plan on taking it real slow with the stain and polyurethane.
I will have to have the wife help up some pics up from all the work that got done this weekend.
Thanks for all the advice 2Quills!!!! It really helps a lot.

 

[2quills]

No problem, I would always recommend priming first if you can its just safer for when you're looking to have your paint last and not peel. If you wish to save some time there are some new paints on the market now that are paint and primer in one. I haven't used them yet but might be worth looking into.

 

[sweatervest13]

 

[sweatervest13]

Big thanks to the wife for uploading the pics!!!
I was able to finish attaching the 3/4" Blond Plywood which I used for the skin to the frame yesterday. Before that I added some extra supports to the frame (one more on the bottom to make three, and three across the top). This really made it stable. To save having buy a second whole piece of plywood, I had cut the 72 1/8" from the 8' board then ripped the 19" for the top of the stand. This gave me like 29" for the front of the stand. Because I am going to trim the top and bottom with some molding I left the front a little short and added an extra 1" piece to the bottom to have something to get the front flat and to have something to nail the trim to. Not super Pro, but it saved $50.00, anyways it will be covered so who cares.
The door holes are already cut (the wife must not have wanted that pic on there. lol). I did this by putting the front skin on in 1 whole piece and attaching it real good, then used a jig saw and cut out the holes. I used the drop cut from getting the plywood cut at Lowes to make the doors, you can see in the last pic that they are mocked up on the front along with the trim that needs to be cut.
I am happy with the way it turned out so far. It is not perfect but I think it looks good. Again, I hope the trim covers all the holes I made to screw this thing together. Let me know what you think.
Thanks
Ryan

 

[2quills]

Agreed, it does look good. And you're right, since you're covering the bottom piece with molding it makes no difference. You figured out a way to save some money and no one can blame you for that.

 

[sweatervest13]

Moving a bit slow on this build but I do have some progress to report.

I primed and painted the inside of the stand. Well I primed then put some caulk in all the seams inside the stand then I painted. I still need to put on at least one more coat of paint. The inside looks decent. I needed to put together a bottom inside the stand for the sump and other storage. I had some extra 3/4" misc plywood, but not one piece to cover the whole bottom, so I kind of rigged three pieces and patched it together. It looks a bit jankey and has some gaps. The three different pieces of plywood are all secured with screws into 2x4's on the sides and in a cross bracing 2x4. I don't think it should matter too much. Does anyone think that it would be a problem later? I was planning on doing a 55g DIY sump down there so any feedback on the bottom being sturdy is welcomed.

I started to put on some trim on the outside and bought a small can of Cabot Red Mahogany stain to see if I like the look. I have the bottom trim on and it looks good. While doing the top trim I cut just a little too much off trying to use an older miter saw. So last night it was back to Lowes to buy another one. The wife was out of town with my two little girls on Monday so I was able to use the saws at night. She came back yesterday a day early so no power tools after bedtime for me. I hope to get the top trim on tonight (maybe) and start the trim on the sides. Once that is done I need to figure out how to trim out the doors and how to hang them. I am open to suggestions on the doors both trim and hinges. I will take some pics tonight and upload so everyone can see the progress

BTW. I like having a forum like this. It helps keep me accountable and lets me try things that I don't think I would have otherwise. So, please keep the feedback coming. Good or bad.

 

[2quills]

Support wise the plywood pieces should be fine to set a 55g tank on top of since you have the 2x4 support underneath. I would be more concerned about the gaps, but if you can fill them in then it shouldn't be too much of a worry for you. I just wouldn't want to have any water spills seeping their way through those and going underneath the stand. Mohagany red is a nice color, I've used it for many projects, it's one of my favorites.
I like using concealed hinges, myself. It depends on how you cut the doors though whether you'll be able to use them. Typically with most of the european style hinges you want to cut the doors to cover the openings by 3/4" on each side.

 

[sweatervest13]

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Quills http:///forum/thread/385156/125g-stand-reinforcement-and-skinning#post_3379573
Support wise the plywood pieces should be fine to set a 55g tank on top of since you have the 2x4 support underneath. I would be more concerned about the gaps, but if you can fill them in then it shouldn't be too much of a worry for you. I just wouldn't want to have any water spills seeping their way through those and going underneath the stand. Mohagany red is a nice color, I've used it for many projects, it's one of my favorites.
I like using concealed hinges, myself. It depends on how you cut the doors though whether you'll be able to use them. Typically with most of the european style hinges you want to cut the doors to cover the openings by 3/4" on each side.
Okay, support wise I should be good. Can I just fill the gaps/cracks with some silcone caulk?? There is only one big one that I would worry about. That being said, I would probally put the sump on the side with NO big gap. But it makes sense about the gaps being a problem if leaks go under the stand. I will try to address this tonight.
I think that the concealed hinges are out. I only have about 1/4" on each of the doors. I am really thinking about using the hinges that I took off the stand before. They were holding around the same size doors as I am using. Then I would just need to figure out how to trim the doors to make them look nice. Right now it is just the 3/4" plywood. I am thinking of using some trim molding for the front and maybe some beading trim for the edges (where you can see the layers of plywood around the edges).

 

[2quills]

Quote:
Originally Posted by sweatervest13 http:///forum/thread/385156/125g-stand-reinforcement-and-skinning#post_3379605
Okay, support wise I should be good. Can I just fill the gaps/cracks with some silcone caulk?? There is only one big one that I would worry about. That being said, I would probally put the sump on the side with NO big gap. But it makes sense about the gaps being a problem if leaks go under the stand. I will try to address this tonight.
I think that the concealed hinges are out. I only have about 1/4" on each of the doors. I am really thinking about using the hinges that I took off the stand before. They were holding around the same size doors as I am using. Then I would just need to figure out how to trim the doors to make them look nice. Right now it is just the 3/4" plywood. I am thinking of using some trim molding for the front and maybe some beading trim for the edges (where you can see the layers of plywood around the edges).
Yep, just seal the gaps with the caulk. Trim work is a little tough IMO since you used 3/4" plywood for the doors. Do you have a table saw? If you do you could pick up a length of oak board and rip some thin strips and glue them around the parimeter of the doors. That would solve the issue of seeing the layers of plywood. Or your trim idea would work. Do you own a router? Basically how I made my doors was by making a frame and then used my router to make a dato cut or a relief cut around the inner parimeter that allowed me to use 1/4" plywood for my door panels that sit flush with the frames. If you don't own a router you could always pic up some picture frame moulding, it is essentially already cut in such a way to allow you to do the same thing. Just an idea.
Keep up the good work. Can't wait for pics.

 

[sweatervest13]

Got a good amount of stuff done on the stand last night. A big thanks to my buddy Jeff. Hanging trim alone is a bit tough. Got all the trim on the outside of the stand, and caulked every gap on the inside. While I was filling the big craks I got to thinking about the screw holes in the bottom of the inside. They are potential areas that water could leak into as well so if filled thoses with caulk too.
I am super happy with the way the trim turned out. I just have some minor gaps in a couple of areas, I plan on getting some stainable wood glue/putty and filling the gaps then hit it with some sandpaper. I think tonight I will put a second layer of paint on the inside, and I would like to try to stain a scrap piece of the skin to see how I like the look.
I think that the trim and the plywood skin will take the stain a little differently because they are different kinds of wood. Right? If so, how do I get them to match up best that they can? Will I end up putting less coats of stain on the trim? I have never stained wood before so I have no clue. I will try to youtube some DIY's and see if I can get the feel for it. My BWE (best wife ever) will be uploading pics showing more progress.