Taking another shot at DIY Fuge!!!!

9supratt4

9supratt4

Active Member
I'm going to try and attempt my DIY refugium once again. here is a picture of what I propose.

I have a drain line going into the fuge. Then I will drill a hole into the side, near the bottom, of the 10 gallon and insert a bulkhead and connect a line to the sump from there. Will that work as long as the water level in the fuge is higher than the level in the sump??
 
scsinet

scsinet

Active Member
Sorry but it won't work like this, but you only need a slight modification.
The problem is that you'd have to "balance" the flow going into the fuge with the rate of flow out to get the water level where you want it. The water is going to want to equalize in height between the sump and the fuge. Put a valve in and open it too wide, and it'll even out with the sump. Crank it down too far, you'll flood by overflowing the fuge. There is now way to keep it even.
Instead, drill your drain (from the fuge to the sump) at the TOP of the fuge. This will allow the water to rise to the level of the drain, then drain away, like a built in overflow. That, or put an elbow inside the fuge on your bulkhead and put a standpipe in that rises to the desired water level, so the water spills into the standpipe, down, and out the bulkhead to the sump.
I modified your pic to match the first suggestion.
 
9supratt4

9supratt4

Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
http:///forum/post/3105947
Sorry but it won't work like this, but you only need a slight modification.
The problem is that you'd have to "balance" the flow going into the fuge with the rate of flow out to get the water level where you want it. The water is going to want to equalize in height between the sump and the fuge. Put a valve in and open it too wide, and it'll even out with the sump. Crank it down too far, you'll flood by overflowing the fuge. There is now way to keep it even.
Instead, drill your drain (from the fuge to the sump) at the TOP of the fuge. This will allow the water to rise to the level of the drain, then drain away, like a built in overflow. That, or put an elbow inside the fuge on your bulkhead and put a standpipe in that rises to the desired water level, so the water spills into the standpipe, down, and out the bulkhead to the sump.
I modified your pic to match the first suggestion.
So with this....the water in the sump and fuge would not want to be at the same level??
 
scsinet

scsinet

Active Member
No.
Imagine the setup just sitting on a table, hooked up, but dry.
In your first pic, with the tie between the sump and fuge at the bottom of both tanks, if you poured water into the fuge, it would flow into the sump until it was even and leveled on both sides.
However, if you do what I was suggesting, either drilling the sump near the top (at your desired water level) or you put in a standpipe, and you poured water in the fuge, the water can't leave the fuge to flow into the sump until your desired water level is reached in the fuge..
 
bmkj02

bmkj02

Member
Quint, you are awesome. I have been fighting with my sump and fuge for awhile now with the same problem of it leveling out. Since its drilled already in the bottom I will just make a stand pipe
 
V

vince-1961

Guest
With the fuge being drilled in the bottom, it seems to me that the height of water in the fuge and the sump will always be the same.
 
9supratt4

9supratt4

Active Member
How bid of a pipe should be used from the fuge to the sump?? The drain lines I have now are 1 1/4" and the return lines are 3/4".
 
9supratt4

9supratt4

Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
http:///forum/post/3109742
How much flow do you want through the fuge?
Not sure....I know that it shouldn't be stagnant and the water should continuously flow, but I've also been told that the longer the water sits with the chaeto the better.
 
scsinet

scsinet

Active Member
The flow through your fuge dictates your sizing. I'd use 1" pipe, that'll give you up to about 600gph, which is 60x flow for a 10g tank, more than you'll ever need.
BTW... 10g tanks are very thin glass... they are tough to drill and install bulkheads on without breaking. I've gone through a few in my time... at least they are only $10
 
scsinet

scsinet

Active Member
You'll need a diamond hole saw. These are specialty tools, but you can get fairly inexpensive ones on that famous site where you bid on stuff that'll last for quite a while if you take good care of them, use plenty of water coolant when drilling, etc.
 
9supratt4

9supratt4

Active Member
I know you said I should make the pipe 1-inch. My sump already has outlets built in, but I think they are 3/4-inch. Will that work??
 
9supratt4

9supratt4

Active Member
Awesome!! I'll order the drill bit tonight!! I'll let you know how it goes....but I'm prepared to break the 10 gallon
 
scsinet

scsinet

Active Member
Remember to get the hole saw sized for the hole needed for the bulkhead you plan to use, not just the pipe.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top