Tank Configuration & Aquascaping Complete: See Photos

dutchswan

Member
Tank Size: 47 Gallon Column (20x18x30)
Filtration: Emperor 400
Lighting: 150W 14,000K Metal Halide
Pump: Koralia 750gph
Thermometer: Digital
Live Sand: 40 Lbs
Live Rock: 19 Melon size cultured Fiji bonded with 16oz of Epoxy
Heater: None
Cycle Time: 18 Days and counting
Animals: 6 Red Leg Hermit Crabs, 4 Astrea Snails, & 1 Ocellaris Clown

 

aquaknight

Active Member
Looks head and shoulders better then the previous attempts.
Now you just gotta temporarily move the biowheel, and put on some type of blue/black background on the back (plastic stuff from the pet store, limo tint, safe-to-use paint, etc).
 
J

jstdv8

Guest
That tank doesnt have alot of surface are for the amount of water there. make sure you have a powerhead pointed at the surface too. even if its just a little one. the more waves you make up there the better you will be.
 

flower

Well-Known Member

That does not look stable...16 oz of epoxy isn't strong enough to hold rock and I personally don't think you should epoxy your rock anyway. Rock slides can break the tank and also crush your critters.
If a fish needs to be removed, sometimes because of illness, death or aggression. Taking the rock apart is the only option to get to the critter. Then there are the bad critters that crop up later, like Bobbitt worms...how are you going to get to it?
 

dutchswan

Member
Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3286042

That does not look stable...16 oz of epoxy isn't strong enough to hold rock and I personally don't think you should epoxy your rock anyway. Rock slides can break the tank and also crush your critters.
...how are you going to get to it?
muuahhahaahahah. Trust me, this thing is solid! (famous last words, right? lol) That is the cool thing about my aquascaping. Most people said "just take your time and stack it so you don't need epoxy or tricks." Well, try building a 24" tall structure with a diameter less than 10". You cannot build a stable strucutre that tall without help from some kind of adhesive. Now, the structure (seen below) has 5 basic layers. I wanted to take the advice of not making the structure permanent and couple it with the ability to actually build it this tall.
Levels 1 and 2 have no epoxy or adhesive. Just carefully placed rocks based on shape and size.
Level 3 has what I am calling "stability epoxy". That is to say the rock was just not quite the right shape and perhaps had some wobble to it. This epoxy took out the wobble. There might be a certain degree of adhesion as well, but the main goal was stability. All "stability epoxy" was applied directly under water.
It is not until level 4 that actual "bonding" took place. Level 4 consists of three rocks. These rocks were removed from the tank and allowed to dry. I then permanently bonded them together in two different sessions over 24 hours. "Stability epoxy" was then used at the three contact points, again not to adhere the levels together, but to provide an environment in which no lateral sliding could occur.
Level 5 is made up of two large rocks. These were also bonded together. This one was a little more tricky. The bonding points did not hold on one of the rocks. My solution to this was to put superglue on the hardened epoxy and put it back together now that the epoxy itself was the exact shape of the rock and all of its imperfections. This

[hr]
is not coming a part now. These two bonded rocks had three points of contact with level 4, where "stability epoxy" was again applied.
What all this crap means: As long as gravity continues to pull to the earth, the structure should remain solid. Perish the thought; but if I had to remove the rock; it can be done so in layers now.
Discuss

Additional thoughts: Seriously? I cannot say BA$TRD?? I know it is like looking at the leaning tower and expecting it to fall at any moment, but I have applied a lot of downward pressure and it is strong. I also thought like an anemone and simulated the pulling down of just one side of the rock as it is climbed...again stable. Time will tell eh?
 

flower

Well-Known Member

You are a smart cookie, so it can be taken apart and its stable...
You said you got new lights, what did you decide on, or did I miss that post?
 

dutchswan

Member
Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3286059

You are a smart cookie, so it can be taken apart and its stable...
You said you got new lights, what did you decide on, or did I miss that post?
Well, I am trying to only make one post a day now, otherwise the front page of this section of the forum ends up plastered with "dutchswan" everywhere and people will stop reading my posts.

I took back the 96W 6,700K PC light and exchanged it for the 150W 14,000K Metal Halide clip-on (as seen in the photo above). I negotiated a decent deal. That is the funny thing...I find fish places, even ***** and PETSMART have room for negotiation. I talked PetSmart down on my tank, and ***** down on all of my live rock (25% off). The light I purchased from a locally owned pet shop. It was regularly marked at $330, but got it for $260. Another locall owned petstore would go to $240 on the light, but the one I got it from said "he carries a different brand that is not as good". I went to that store too and found them to be the same light. Still had to pay $260 though because he would only exchange the light I was brining back (there was actually a sign that said "No refunds or exchanges on lights/hoods"). So, I cut my losses and got the light before I was stuck with the PC.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by dutchswan
http:///forum/post/3286060
Well, I am trying to only make one post a day now, otherwise the front page of this section of the forum ends up plastered with "dutchswan" everywhere and people will stop reading my posts.

I took back the 96W 6,700K PC light and exchanged it for the 150W 14,000K Metal Halide clip-on (as seen in the photo above). I negotiated a decent deal. That is the funny thing...I find fish places, even ***** and PETSMART have room for negotiation. I talked PetSmart down on my tank, and ***** down on all of my live rock (25% off). The light I purchased from a locally owned pet shop. It was regularly marked at $330, but got it for $260. Another locall owned petstore would go to $240 on the light, but the one I got it from said "he carries a different brand that is not as good". I went to that store too and found them to be the same light. Still had to pay $260 though because he would only exchange the light I was brining back (there was actually a sign that said "No refunds or exchanges on lights/hoods"). So, I cut my losses and got the light before I was stuck with the PC.

Is there some way to put the clip light more towards the center of the tank? I'm just suggesting it because a 150w in such a deep tank, and you said you want coral. Unless you can rig up the light to penetrate deeper you are really no better off than with the PC light. You seem pretty handy so I'm sure you can think of something.
 

luvmyreef

Active Member
Actually, you can see a noticeable difference in the pics from his earlier posts with the pc lights. He should be able to keep low light corals like shrooms on the bottom without difficulty and more higher light corals up towards the top.
 

dutchswan

Member
Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3286062

Is there some way to put the clip light more towards the center of the tank? I'm just suggesting it because a 150w in such a deep tank, and you said you want coral. Unless you can rig up the light to penetrate deeper you are really no better off than with the PC light. You seem pretty handy so I'm sure you can think of something.
I am not sure what you mean by "more towards the center". It is exactly in the middle now in both directions. Can you clarify? I tried to tier the structure in such a way that each layer is getting light, but also provides cliffs so that certain parts of each layer have shade for any kind of animal that prefers that.
 
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