Tank turned green!
- Thread starter jayson417
- Start date
small triggers
Active Member
what are all your levels/??? My tank is normally green if i dont run my UV,,,
flower
Well-Known Member
Some medicines change the water color, it should return to normal after a short time, or the required water change.
I used an ich md once that made my water blue, until the water change. I don't remember the brand now. It was like an alka selzer tab that floated in a net.
I used an ich md once that made my water blue, until the water change. I don't remember the brand now. It was like an alka selzer tab that floated in a net.
jayson417
Member
Thanks Guys
Current Water:
Ammonia: 0
PH 7.9
Nitrite:0
Nitrate: 10
SL: 1.023
I will just wait it out for now. I bought two Tomato Clowns from my LFS and since the moment i got them they didn't seem right and wouldn't eat. Week later both dead and now my fish have ick.
Thanks again
Current Water:
Ammonia: 0
PH 7.9
Nitrite:0
Nitrate: 10
SL: 1.023
I will just wait it out for now. I bought two Tomato Clowns from my LFS and since the moment i got them they didn't seem right and wouldn't eat. Week later both dead and now my fish have ick.
Thanks again
flower
Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by Jayson417
http:///forum/post/3045912
Thanks Guys
Current Water:
Ammonia: 0
PH 7.9
Nitrite:0
Nitrate: 10
SL: 1.023
I will just wait it out for now. I bought two Tomato Clowns from my LFS and since the moment i got them they didn't seem right and wouldn't eat. Week later both dead and now my fish have ick.
Thanks again
This is why they stress QTs, what a mess. Some stores are just ment to be avoided, like ***** and Petland, this sounds like one of them.
http:///forum/post/3045912
Thanks Guys
Current Water:
Ammonia: 0
PH 7.9
Nitrite:0
Nitrate: 10
SL: 1.023
I will just wait it out for now. I bought two Tomato Clowns from my LFS and since the moment i got them they didn't seem right and wouldn't eat. Week later both dead and now my fish have ick.
Thanks again
This is why they stress QTs, what a mess. Some stores are just ment to be avoided, like ***** and Petland, this sounds like one of them.
jayson417
Member
Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3045931
This is why they stress QTs, what a mess. Some stores are just ment to be avoided, like ***** and Petland, this sounds like one of them.
Your my new SW fish Advisor. How did you know it was a petland?
I just recently setup my QT but its only 5 days old.
Not even a tank its a Rubbermaid 25 gallon bin.
Thanks for helping me tho, I know it was stupid of me to just put them right into my DT.
http:///forum/post/3045931
This is why they stress QTs, what a mess. Some stores are just ment to be avoided, like ***** and Petland, this sounds like one of them.
Your my new SW fish Advisor. How did you know it was a petland?
I just recently setup my QT but its only 5 days old.
Not even a tank its a Rubbermaid 25 gallon bin.
Thanks for helping me tho, I know it was stupid of me to just put them right into my DT.
salami trigger
Member
Originally Posted by small triggers
http:///forum/post/3045903
what are all your levels/??? My tank is normally green if i dont run my UV,,,
Really?
Is it near a window or something.
http:///forum/post/3045903
what are all your levels/??? My tank is normally green if i dont run my UV,,,
Really?
Is it near a window or something.
crypt keeper
Active Member
His PH is low. Your foxface looks like he is losing his slim coat. When did he become so blotchy? Take the Wrasse back. They get huge and need lots of room. Your tank looks like a 55.
jayson417
Member
Originally Posted by crypt keeper
http:///forum/post/3046001
His PH is low. Your foxface looks like he is losing his slim coat. When did he become so blotchy? Take the Wrasse back. They get huge and need lots of room. Your tank looks like a 55.
My PH was 7.9 i had the lights on for about 8 hours at this point. My bulbs are only a week old as i just replaced them
(Standard Hood)
For the Wrasse i have a 120 Downstairs that he is going into shortly, Just waiting for it to cycle.
The reason the foxface looks that way is because i ran up to the tank with the camera he gets really scared and goes camo. 1 min later he is back to bright yellow.
http:///forum/post/3046001
His PH is low. Your foxface looks like he is losing his slim coat. When did he become so blotchy? Take the Wrasse back. They get huge and need lots of room. Your tank looks like a 55.
My PH was 7.9 i had the lights on for about 8 hours at this point. My bulbs are only a week old as i just replaced them
(Standard Hood)
For the Wrasse i have a 120 Downstairs that he is going into shortly, Just waiting for it to cycle.
The reason the foxface looks that way is because i ran up to the tank with the camera he gets really scared and goes camo. 1 min later he is back to bright yellow.
jayson417
Member
Originally Posted by ophiura
http:///forum/post/3045996
Your foxface looks pretty stressed out. What is your alkalinityt? How much circulation do you have in the tank? When you took the pH reading, how long had the lights been on? How old are the bulbs in your light fixture, and how long do you keep the lights on?
I have great circulation i have a 500GPH pump on my wet dry and my fuval 305 going. My foxface always turns colors if i walk up to the tank to fast or the flash goes off on the camera he instantly turns dark brown with black spots. 1-2mins later he is back swimming and yellow as can be just like the picture on SWF.com
http:///forum/post/3045996
Your foxface looks pretty stressed out. What is your alkalinityt? How much circulation do you have in the tank? When you took the pH reading, how long had the lights been on? How old are the bulbs in your light fixture, and how long do you keep the lights on?
I have great circulation i have a 500GPH pump on my wet dry and my fuval 305 going. My foxface always turns colors if i walk up to the tank to fast or the flash goes off on the camera he instantly turns dark brown with black spots. 1-2mins later he is back swimming and yellow as can be just like the picture on SWF.com
crypt keeper
Active Member
Originally Posted by Jayson417
http:///forum/post/3046116
My PH was 7.9 i had the lights on for about 8 hours at this point. My bulbs are only a week old as i just replaced them
(Standard Hood)
For the Wrasse i have a 120 Downstairs that he is going into shortly, Just waiting for it to cycle.
The reason the foxface looks that way is because i ran up to the tank with the camera he gets really scared and goes camo. 1 min later he is back to bright yellow.
Is the 120 6 foot tank? They need long tanks. The longer the better.
http:///forum/post/3046116
My PH was 7.9 i had the lights on for about 8 hours at this point. My bulbs are only a week old as i just replaced them
(Standard Hood)
For the Wrasse i have a 120 Downstairs that he is going into shortly, Just waiting for it to cycle.
The reason the foxface looks that way is because i ran up to the tank with the camera he gets really scared and goes camo. 1 min later he is back to bright yellow.
Is the 120 6 foot tank? They need long tanks. The longer the better.
ophiura
Active Member
a 120 is usually a 4 foot tank.
What is your alk?
I would take a pH reading first thing in the morning after lights have been out for 8+ hours as this will show how low the pH is going. If it is going significantly lower than 7.9, then it is a bit of a concern.
Both the fluval and the return pump may not provide enough circulation within the tank. When you consider head pressure, both of those drop off. I would suggest adding additional powerheads within the tank, specifically to get some surface aggitation, which can further be related to the pH. Do you have glass tops on the tank?
What is your alk?
I would take a pH reading first thing in the morning after lights have been out for 8+ hours as this will show how low the pH is going. If it is going significantly lower than 7.9, then it is a bit of a concern.
Both the fluval and the return pump may not provide enough circulation within the tank. When you consider head pressure, both of those drop off. I would suggest adding additional powerheads within the tank, specifically to get some surface aggitation, which can further be related to the pH. Do you have glass tops on the tank?
spanko
Active Member
Originally Posted by Cranberry
http:///forum/post/3046196
Your tank is green because it is undergoing a phytoplankton bloom.
Hee Hee, everyone kind of went all over the place on answers but never go to hisher original question of why the tank is green?
Renee nailed it here, an algae bloom, could be related to the new light coupled with some excess nutrient in the water. Are you using RODI water or tap water?
http:///forum/post/3046196
Your tank is green because it is undergoing a phytoplankton bloom.
Hee Hee, everyone kind of went all over the place on answers but never go to hisher original question of why the tank is green?
Renee nailed it here, an algae bloom, could be related to the new light coupled with some excess nutrient in the water. Are you using RODI water or tap water?
jayson417
Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3046200
Hee Hee, everyone kind of went all over the place on answers but never go to hisher original question of why the tank is green?
Renee nailed it here, an algae bloom, could be related to the new light coupled with some excess nutrient in the water. Are you using RODI water or tap water?
So what i do is use my home water filter put the water into a 20 gallon Rubbermaid container and run it for 1-2 months before i do my water changes.
Not sure of my ALK as i haven't checked it in a week or so. The recent light i changed is an upgraded model of what i had. I have the basic black hood no glass tops.
The Wrasse is in the 55 as i have 2 Puffers in my 120 and im afraid they will attack the wrasse. I'm looking for a new home for my Puffers now so once they are gone the wrasse goes in. Will air stones help with water movement? If not power heads will be my next choice.
Thanks everyone for the advice all good feedback. As you can see im new at this.
http:///forum/post/3046200
Hee Hee, everyone kind of went all over the place on answers but never go to hisher original question of why the tank is green?
Renee nailed it here, an algae bloom, could be related to the new light coupled with some excess nutrient in the water. Are you using RODI water or tap water?
So what i do is use my home water filter put the water into a 20 gallon Rubbermaid container and run it for 1-2 months before i do my water changes.
Not sure of my ALK as i haven't checked it in a week or so. The recent light i changed is an upgraded model of what i had. I have the basic black hood no glass tops.
The Wrasse is in the 55 as i have 2 Puffers in my 120 and im afraid they will attack the wrasse. I'm looking for a new home for my Puffers now so once they are gone the wrasse goes in. Will air stones help with water movement? If not power heads will be my next choice.
Thanks everyone for the advice all good feedback. As you can see im new at this.
ophiura
Active Member
an Airstone, IMO, is not enough to help with circulation and it can cause a great deal of salt creep.
Why do you let your water sit for 1-2 months? IMO, this does little for the quality of the water. Primarily letting tap water sit would remove chlorine over time, but IMO not much else.
Why do you let your water sit for 1-2 months? IMO, this does little for the quality of the water. Primarily letting tap water sit would remove chlorine over time, but IMO not much else.
jayson417
Member
Originally Posted by spanko
http:///forum/post/3046288
Home water filter here is a potential problem as it may not be removing all of the dissolved solids from your water. Can you test for phosphate and have you tested for nitrate recently?
With the home water i cycle it with live rock and a Aqua Clear filter. It isnt better to have it filtered for a month or two? I cant really afford a RO/DI at the moment.
My hermit crabs normally turn the sand once or twice every week or so. But i guess i need to buy some power heads.
I hope my fish are ok.
http:///forum/post/3046288
Home water filter here is a potential problem as it may not be removing all of the dissolved solids from your water. Can you test for phosphate and have you tested for nitrate recently?
With the home water i cycle it with live rock and a Aqua Clear filter. It isnt better to have it filtered for a month or two? I cant really afford a RO/DI at the moment.
My hermit crabs normally turn the sand once or twice every week or so. But i guess i need to buy some power heads.
I hope my fish are ok.