Temperatures, Ick, Parasites, and Snails

jrittz

Member
Here's the layout:
Ammonia - 0
Nitrites - 0
Nitrates - 15ppm ( I think, I'm using the Red Sea test kit and I believe the reading is that )
Temperature - 83
Salinity 1.023
Crushed Coral
50lbs Live Rock
Emporer 400 Wet/Dry
500W Heater
Prizm Deluxe Protein Skimmer
72 Gallon Bow Front
1 Longhorn Cow (Bessy)
1 Gold Stripe Maroon (George)
1 Bubble Tip Anemone
1 3 Stripe Damsel (Stripe)
1 Cleaner Shrimp - Skunk (Bruce Jr.)
1 Snowflake Eel (Lumpy)
5 Mexican Turbo Snails
2 Red Foot Snails
10 Blue Leg Hermit Crabs
2 Red Leg Hermit Crabs
1 Hawaiian Strawberry Crab
I used to keep my temperature at 78-79 and salinity at 1.023.
My Cow fish was having problems so I treated the tank with Greenex. This fixed my cow fish problem but killed every snail in the tank. Two weeks after the last treatment of Greenex, I bought 10 red foot snails. These snails did a wonderful job of keeping my tank clean of algae but ever so slowly started to die. I then purchased 10 more mexican turbo snails to help do cleanup and these just contributed to the effectiveness of the other 10 snails.
My Cow fish started to have the Ick problem again and I decided against the greenex in the display tank and decided to move her to the hospital tank and treat with greenex and this worked great as usual. I kept her in that tank for probably a week until all signs of Ick disappeared and then waited an additional couple days for one more treatment.
At this point I decided to go buy a cleaner shrimp to help combat the Ick problem and while talking to the lfs owner, he suggested I lower the salinity (this is to help the fish fight Ick better) and to raise the temperature of the water to 82-83 and this would help combat the Ick reinfestation. The temperature raise seems to be helping but so does the cleaner shrimp. I cant tell which one is doing the actual job whether it's split or one is doing the whole job of combatting the reinfestation of Ick on the cow fish.
The problem I am running into now is my snails are all dying fairly fast. I would like to figure out if the water could still be filled with the remains of the greenex treatment, the temperature is killing them, or a combination of the two.
My main questions are above along with these few other questions...
What are the differences of these three temperatures..74, 79, and 83? Does it mean the lower the temperature the better Ick will thrive? Is it true the higher the temp the more likely it will be that the Ick will be killed off or moreso prevented? I just need to know the pros and cons to the ranges of temperatures of what I have in the tank currently and possible suggestions based upon experience (aka Not hear-say)
What are the differences in salinity at 1.016, 1.019, and 1.023? Will dropping my salinity that much still be viable for keeping fish, anemone, inverts, crustaceans, and any other tank life, other than coral/reef specimens, alive?
I dont know if there are any ideal solutions to this dilema but i'd sure be happy to hear what some of you may have experienced and how you may or may not have solved this problem.
Jrttz
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
The temperature manipulation is really useless. The higher temps would only speed up the lifecycle of the parasite, which would allow you to hit it with an effective treatment quicker.
There are only 2 viable treatments for ich; however, hyposalinity is the best choice. This procedure is explained in detail in the FAQ Thread posted at the top of this forum. All fish must be treated and the treatment instructions must be followed exactly.
Inverts can not tolerate meds, so never put medications in your tank that you have inverts in. For your main tank, I would suggest a 100% water change in increments. Don't add any inverts until you have done this.
 
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