Tested my water today.

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tailgate1979

Guest
The ammonia is 0.25, ph 8.0,nitrate 0, nitrite 0,salt 1.022. The question I have is why is my ammonia at 0.25 is this normal? I have a 55gal with 3 smaller fish in it. Tanks been going for awhile it has no coral. It has a 400filter, with carbon added. Anyone have any advise and should I worry about it?
 

spanko

Active Member
What test kit are you using for the ammonia? Some are hard to gauge the color on to come to a real reading. What is a while that the tank has been set up for/
 

spanko

Active Member
Seems that API ammonia tests are notoriously hard to read for levels that low. If I remember the color chart of zero or .25 are pretty close. Plus you need to let them set for 5 minutes before reading.
If yo are not seeing nitrites and nitrates I would not bee too concerned here, just monitor to look for changes.
JMO let's see what others say.
 

btldreef

Moderator
I agree with Spanko.
API kits can be hard to read, if you want to be certain you can do a few things:
a) have your test results double checked by a local fish store
b) get a different brand of test kit (NOT red sea) Salifert is one of the better ones, I like the SeaChem ammonia test kit, do not use strips.
c) do a water change just to be safe.
 

2quills

Well-Known Member
I have never really had much trouble reading my API ammonia kit. The color indicator of zero seems fairly easy to read. The API that I have most trouble with is the PH. I would test it again. Shake the bottles before using them. Also check the lot number...the last 4 digits tell you how old the kits are. They have a shelf life of 3 years but should be disscarded as soon as one year after they've been opened. They become less reliable the older they get.
Unless there's been some kind of changed made to the system/tank I find it hard to believe that 3 small fish are causing a spike in a 7 month old tank.
 
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tailgate1979

Guest
I had one damsel in it till yesterday I took my yellow tang and blue trigger out of QT this morning and added them in.
 

btldreef

Moderator
Do a water change.
I guess I'll play tang police:
Those tangs do not belong in a 55G tank, especially the Blue Hippo tang and especially not together. Tangs are open water swimmers and graze on rock work ALL day, a 55G tank really doesn't provide the space or rocks they need.
 
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tailgate1979

Guest
I swear by that prime I always keep it in the house. I only have one yellow tang, don't have no blue tang. Im sure I will get a bigger tank. I took the tang out of my coral tank and put him in my QT tank for a few weeks he had a little ick, so put him in my other 55 till i figure out what other fish to add to my 55 gal reef tank then add the tang in last
 

btldreef

Moderator
Prime can give you false readings on your API test kit or really any ammonia test kit.
I use it to, but be careful with it because it does mess with the ammonia, and nitrate readings.
 

geoj

Active Member
What Prime does is change the toxic ammonia to a nontoxic type, and many test kits don't read them any different so you can read ammonia when there is no toxic ammonia... What happens when the nontoxic ammonia builds up I don't really know, it might become acutely toxic or it may not.
 

spanko

Active Member
"Prime contains complexed hydrosulfite salts which removes chlorine, chloramine and ammonia. Prime also converts ammonia into a safe, non-toxic form (ammonium) that is readily removed by the tank’s nitrifying bacteria. Prime may be used during tank cycling to alleviate ammonia/nitrite toxicity. Prime detoxifies nitrite and nitrate, allowing nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria to more efficiently remove them. It will also detoxify any heavy metals found in the tap water at typical concentration levels. The ingredients of Prime also promote the production and regeneration of the natural slime coat and are non-acidic and will not impact pH.
USE:
For removal of chlorine, chloramines, and the de-toxifying of ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. This product adds electrolytes that aid in natural slime coat generation and proper osmotic function. This is my favorite conditioner to use in newer aquariums, aquariums with high ammonia, for water changes in tanks under medication treatment, or for use in areas where chloramines are in tap water. One reason I like this product is that is does what it claims!
Prime is also a great product to use if high ammonia or nitrites are encountered during cycling of a new aquarium while fish are present (fishless cycling is best, please read this article: Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle), as this product will NOT interfere with nitrifying aerobic bacteria (as my own studies as well as lab studies have shown).
Please note that when using Prime (and Amquel Plus) for neutralizing toxic ammonia (NH3) that these products work basically "instantly" by converting toxic ammonia ions into non toxic bio available ammonium (NH4) ions. There is no residual effect, so new toxic NH3 will begin to accumulate after addition of Prime (or Amquel Plus) and the water change, however generally if you are carefully feeding and keeping the bio load as low as possible this should be adequate if water is changed and Prime is added every other day.
SeaChem Prime works for ammonia detoxifying by containing a binder which renders ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate non-toxic.
As noted at the beginning of this article, most dechlorinators operate through a chemical process known as reduction. In this process, toxic dissolved chlorine gas (Cl2) is converted into non-toxic chloride ions (Cl-). The reduction process also breaks the bonds between chlorine and nitrogen atoms in the chloramine molecule (NH2Cl), freeing the chlorine atoms and replacing them with hydrogen (H) to create ammonia (NH3).
Typically, other water conditioners (dechlorinators) stop there, leaving an aquarium full of toxic ammonia! Seachem Prime goes one more step by including an ammonia binder to detoxify the ammonia produced in the reduction process.'
 

geoj

Active Member
Very nice, so it will rid us of chlorine, chloramine and ammonia's toxicity but not it as a food source...
 

1guydude

Well-Known Member
Quote:
Plus you need to let them set for 5 minutes before reading.
Wait a tick... are u serious i have an api test kit and i just shake em up and read em &^%$ me, plz tell me this isnt so. My tank seems to be fine and new so plz tell me, do i really need to set it down on the counter for 5 min after shaking and than read it
 

yannifish

Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1guyDude http:///forum/thread/384769/tested-my-water-today#post_3372444
Wait a tick... are u serious i have an api test kit and i just shake em up and read em &^%$ me, plz tell me this isnt so. My tank seems to be fine and new so plz tell me, do i really need to set it down on the counter for 5 min after shaking and than read it

Yes. For the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate tests they have to sit five minutes if I remember right. There are instructions on the back of the little color cards for each test.
The color gets darker as you let it sit, so your ammonia is probably higher than you think.
 
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