The Archive

zeke92

Active Member
Seahorses
BBS Hatchery
1. go to your local lfs, see if they have an already made hatchery you can buy, as in, a small black base and tubing connected to it. you can find this and connect a bottle of coke or something to it and connect the hose to an airline.
2. Make your own.
were gonna go over option 1 first.
If your lfs has a hatchery, buy it, it's cheap, and it works. Take a 2 liter bottle, clean it good, and cut the bottom off just enough to take out the curves in the plastic. take the cap off. turn it upside down and

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it into the big hole on the top of the base. take airline tubing and connect it to the bottom hole, which should be sticking out a little. set the hatchery down and put the airline thorugh the hole on the side so the base can set flat. connect the other side of the tubing to an air pump. add water and make the salinity like 1.019 i believe. use any sort of saltwater, instant ocean is cheap and easy to find.
ok, now for option 2. i've got one method i did by accident, but the first method i'm gonna steal off another website. all rights of the following guide go to Loh Kwek Leong of Singapore

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To rig up your own brine shrimp hatchery, these are the items you will need - A 1.5 litre plastic bottle (preferably, one with many ribs and grooves on its sides), a one-way gang valve, a bit of string and an air pump.
Cut off the bottom one-third of the plastic bottle. Use a sharp object to make a small hole in the cap and then force the one-way gang valve through it. It won't leak and you don't have to use silicon if the size of the hole is slightly smaller than the gang valve. Punch 2 holes at the other end of the plastic bottle and pass the strings through them. Fill the bottle with water and check for leaks.
To hatch brine shrimp eggs, fill up the hatchery with about one litre of water. Add one tablespoon of salt and a small scoop of brine shrimp eggs. Connect the valve to an air pump and aerate the solution for 24 hours. The solution should turn a bright red colour, indicating that most, if not all, the eggs have hatched.
Do not use kitchen salt or the hatch rate will be very low. Many fish shops in Singapore sell brine shrimp eggs that will NEVER hatch no matter how long you aerate them. I think this is because they are not keeping their eggs in the proper conditions. Brine shrimp eggs should always be kept in the refrigerator (in the vegetable compartment, not in the freezer) when not in use.
To harvest the baby brine shrimps, close the gang valve and add half a litre of tap water to the hatchery. Disconnect the tubing and wait for 5 minutes. If all goes well, 3 layers will form in the solution. Egg shells will form the top layer; clear water will be in the middle layer and the baby brine shrimps will congregate at the lower one-third of the solution.
Release the gang-valve and let the solution flow into a bottle. As the water level in the hatchery drops, the egg shells stick to the sides of the bottle and voila, what comes out through the gang valve are pure baby brine shrimps.
You can either use a turkey baster or a brine shrimp net to feed your fish with the baby brine shrimps. I find it's better to use a turkey baster as dipping a net into one tank after another is a sure-fire way to contaminate every tank if one is diseased.
The nutritional value of baby brine shrimps drops dramatically a few hours after hatching. So do not leave your baby brine shrimps in the hatchery for too long. If possible, feed them to your fish as soon as they hatch.

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zeke92

Active Member
Now my method. I accidently did this months ago and it's still running.
i had a 18 gallon saltwater tank, water wasn't too great, all i wanted it to do was keep the liverock fairly live, lol. i didn't have testers or a filter back then to use on it. i added some brine shrimp one day and lots of eggs hoping maybe they would breed in there. no success. i did a water change one day, but forgot for like a week or more that the dirty water was still in the bucket cause it was covered up. looked in the bucket and wouldn't you know it, thousands of brine shrimp. They were breeding like crazy. all it was was a bucket of dirty saltwater, some eggs, and thats it. the bucket hasn't moved since that day and i have a continuous supply of brine shrimp. haven't bought eggs in months, cause i haven't needed them. sometimes i'll ad my leftover eggs to increase the population a bit if i have baby guppies, but thats it. so this could work for others to. salinity was low, about 1.019 which is perfect for brine shrimp i guess. you could try it, worth a shot. just grab a bucket, some low salinity water, add some food of some sort, and add eggs, cover it up for about a week and then take the cover or whatever off (mine was covered by a towel) and see what happened.
those are a few ways to do it. hope that helped.
--Zeke92
Soak 2 tablespoons of brine eggs in fresh water (6 ounces) and aearate it for an hour to rehydrate them. Then add 10 ounces of non scented clorox to the batch of reyhdrated eggs and mix for 3 to 5 minutes. This will decapsulate them. Mix them continuously and they should turn from brown to grey to orange. Rinse them under cool tap water using a brine net until the smell of clorox is removed. Place the eggs in fresh water again this time with chlorine remover for about 2 minuted until the water is nutreulized. Place the eggs in saturated brine water and they can be fed straight to your fish, stored in the fridge for 2 months, or hatched in salted water at 86 degrees over night.
--jonthefishguy
Here's a picture of the hatchery that Rykna and I put together a while back. The 4 bottles are simple water bottles with the "bottoms" cut out and turned upside down. There are holes drilled about 2 inches from the top of the upturned bottles big enough to put clear tubing through (the other end of the tubing is attached to a pump).
Wooden stand is just a quick put together with scrap wood that will be strong enough to hold the weight of the bottles and water...hardest part about putting that together was getting the holes cut just right to fit the bottles without them falling through or tipping.
First bottle will be set up with saltwater (recommended 1.015-1.020) and decapsulated artremia for 24 hours, heated by the lights (pictured) and aerated via the tubing and pump. After that 24 hours, the contents from the first bottle will then be put into the second bottle (meanwhile set up the first bottle over again) which contains enhancement for the artemia or rotifers for another 12 hours being heated and aerated again...voila, ready for the little ones.
This is a 4 bottle set up, but I may be able to get by with just 2 bottles...IDK, haven't been able to try it out yet
Hope this helps.
--MonaLisa (the attatchment aswell)
 

zeke92

Active Member

--Rykna
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Facts
(Various Posters)
Dwarf Seahorses come from murky marine forests and rarely move throughout the day. Moderatly planted small tanks with low flow and low lights are ideal.
Normal sized Seahorses come from various zones and are used to hunting and swimming for food more often. Less plants and more flow is often better, along with much larger tanks then dwarf seahorses. They also like to play in the flow of water.
Hydroid jellyfish, aiptasia, and upside down jellyfish are just some of the many hitchikers you need to look out for if you keep seahorses. Some, like the hydroids, may only be harmful to dwarfs.
Seahorses are light sensitive, don't use very strong lights or leave them on more then 6-8 hours (i think) a day. They come from murky waters and are not used to our brighter lights we use to see them.
Keep seahorse tanks temperature between 72 and 75 degrees ferenheit, if any higher, bacteria and parasites can grow that are not safe for seahorses. If any lower, it can get cold and they could freeze there snouts off.
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Flow
Seahorses love flow. I have a Ehiem Pro2 and a Aquaclear 50 on my 45. So in a hour it gets cycled at least 25 times. To keep the horses and ponies from being blown snout over tail I use artificial plants to bugger the return flows. I glued suction cups to the plant base, stuck it to the glass just above the spray bar.
--Rykna
Use plants to buffer the return flow of your powerful filters on small dwarfs or young horses. (not exact words)
--Rykna
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zeke92

Active Member
Compadability
Though most seahorse keeper prefer to keep species only tanks. Its hard to make sure horses get enough food. I would stick with things that are 0 and 1
Pipefish can make very interesting and unique seahorse tankmates, although they pose some of the same problems as wild-caught seahorses.
Jawfish of the genus Opistognathus can make beautiful seahorse tankmates. Although they may look mean, they have a very peaceful and timid disposition.
Clownfish like this Amphiprion ocellaris can make good seahorse tankmates when small, but as they grow, aggression towards seahorses can become a problem.
Neon Goby
Gobiosoma oceanops 0
Sharknose Goby
Gobiosoma evelynae 0
Yellow Clown Goby
Gobiodon okinawae 0
All Shrimp/Prawn Gobies
Amblyeleotris spp. 1
Blackfinned Watchman Goby
Cryptocentrus pavoninoides 1
Blue-green Chromis
Chromis viridis 1
Bluespotted Jawfish
Opistognathus rosenblatti 1
Clown Shrimp Goby
Stonogobiops sp. 1
Convict Blenny
Pholidichthys leucotaenia 1
Dusky Jawfish
Opistognathus whitehurstii 1
Firefish
Nemateleotris magnifica 1
Goldspecs Jawfish
Opistognathus sp. 1
Green Mandarinfish
Synchiropus splendidus 1 †
Purple Firefish
Nemateleotris decora 1
Rainford's Goby
Amblygobius rainfordi 1
Red Scooter Dragonet
Synchiropus stellatus 1 †
Scissortail Goby
Ptereleotris evides 1
Scooter Dragonet
Synchiropus ocellatus 1 †
Scorpion Dragonet
Synchiropus marmoratus 1 †
Yellow Assessor
Assessor flavissimus 1
Yellow Eel Goby
Dinematichthys riukiuensis 1 *
Yellow Watchman Goby
Cryptocentrus cinctus 1
Yellowhead Jawfish
Opistognathus aurifrons 1
Bar Goby
Ptereleortis zebra 2
Bicolor Blenny
Ecsenius bicolor 2
Chalk Basslet
Serranus tortugarum 2
Cleaner Wrasse
Labroides dimidiatus 2 †
 

zeke92

Active Member
False Percula Clownfish
Amphiprion ocellaris 2
Fourline Wrasse
Pseufocheilinus tetrataeni 2
Leaf Fish
Taenionotus triacanthus 2
Most Cardinalfishes
Apogon spp. 2
Redspotted Blenny
Istiblennius chrysospilos 2
Royal Gramma
Gramma loreto 2
Sixline Wrasse
Pseudocheilinus hexataenia 2
Spotted Mandarinfish
Synchiropus picturatus 2 †
Sunrise Dottyback
Pseudochromis flavivertex 2
Clark's Clownfish
Amphiprion clarkii 3
Filamented Flasher Wrasse
Paracheilinus filamentosus 3
Longfin Anthias
Pseudanthias ventralis 3
Longnose Filefish
Oxymonacanthus lonirostris 3 †
Percula Clownfish
Amphiprion percula 3
Pink Skunk Clownfish
Amphiprion perideraion 3
Redlip Blenny
Ophioblennius atlanticus 3
Saddled Filefish
Paraluteres prionurus 3
Seaweed Blenny
Parablennius marmoreus 3
Tasseled Filefish
Chaetoderma pencilligera 3
Yellowtail Damselfish
Chrysipter parasema 3
Invertebrates:
Common Name
Latin Name
Astraea Snail
Lithopoma [Astraea] spp. 0
Lysmata shrimp can work wonders in seahorse aquariums, not only by cleaning the seahorses themselves, but by cleaning up any leftover mysis shrimp.
Although many sea stars are exceptionally beautiful and will generally not bother seahorses, their feeding needs usually are unsustainable in the home aquarium.
Blue Linckia Starfish
Linckia laevigata 0 †
Cerith Snail
Family Cerithiidae 0
Dotted Fromia Starfish
Fromia milleporella 0 †
Fanworms including Feather Dusters
Phylum Annelida 0
Fighting Conch
Strombus alatus 0
Lettuce Sea Slug
Elysia crispata 0 †
Marbled Fromia Starfish
Fromia monilis 0 †
Nassarius Snail
Nassarius vibex 0
Nerite Snail
Nerita spp. 0
Purple “Linckia” Starfish
Echinaster luzonicus 0 †
Trochus Snail
Trochus niloticus 0
Turbo Snail
Turbo spp. 0
Blue-legged Hermit Crab
Clibanarius tricolor 1
Grass Shrimp
Palaemonetes vulgaris 1
Peppermint Shrimp
Lysmata wurdemanni 1
Porcelain Crab
Family Porcellanidae 1 †
Rockpool Shrimp
Palaemon elegans 1
Scarlet/Blood Shrimp
Lysmata debelius 1
Skunk Cleaner Shrimp
Lysmata amboinensis 1
All Sponges
Phylum Porifera 2 ‡
Banded Serpent Star
Ophiolepis superba 2
Emerald Crab
Mithrax sp. 2
Mexican Red-legged Hermit Crab
Clibanarius digueti 2
Red Reef Hermit Crab
Paguristes cadenati 2
Arrow Crab
Stenorhynchus seticornis 3
Horseshoe Crab
Limulus polyphemus 3
Queen Conch
Strombus gigas 3 ‡
Tridacnid Clams
Tridacna spp. 3
Corals:
Common Name
Latin Name
Clove Polyps
Clavularia spp. 0
 

zeke92

Active Member
Acropora can survive in seahorse aquariums, although they prefer more flow and will thrive in systems set up specifically for them.
Large Palythoa can potentially sting seahorses, although specimens will not achieve a large enough size to do considerable damage.
Finger Leather
Cladiella spp 0
Kenya Tree Coral
Capnella spp. 0
Leather Coral
Sinularia spp. 0
Photosynthetic Gorgonians
Eunicea spp. and others 0
Pulse Coral
Xenia spp. 0
Button Polyps
Zoanthus spp. 1
Candy Coral
Caulastrea furcata 1
Corky Sea Finger
Briareum spp. 1
Green Star Polyps
Pachyclavularia spp. 1
Ivory Coral
Oculina spp. 1
Mushroom Corals
Actinodiscus = Discosoma spp. 1
Nonphotosynthetic Gorgonians
Acalycigorgia spp. and others 1

Pagoda Cup Coral
Turbinaria frondens 1
Raspberry Coral
Blastomussa merleti 1
Toadstool Leather
Sarcophyton spp. 1
Waving-hand Coral
Anthelia spp. 1
Caribbean Ricordea
Ricordea florida 2
Carnation Coral
Dendronephthya spp. 2 †
Disk Coral
Fungia spp. 2
Indo-Pacific Ricordea
Ricordea yuma 2
Sea Mat
Palythoa spp. 2
Yellow Polyps
Parazoanthus spp. 2
Hairy Mushroom
Rhodactis spp. 3
* very timid species that usually will not thrive
† usually will not accept prepared food or cannot get enough food without excessive target feeding
‡ most tank setups are unsuitable
--TeresaQ
false perc clowns, occelaris, do fine with horses. i have one with my dwarf, they do great together.
--Zeke92 <--- I hear he is really handsome
actually pipefish and seahorses go great together, there one of hte best tankmates for each other.
--zeke92
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Thats all for now, if i missed a helpful topic i will go back. i tried to get what i could of all the helpful posts in the past.
I"M LOOKING:
for ryknas medication thread, i've completely lost it. along with a few other of her helpful threads i can no longer find.
 
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