The whole tank is infected

[harlequinnut]

First it was the angel with the cloudy eyes and the scratching, then I noticed my harlequin tusk has spots on his fins and is also scratching, now the huma trigger is scratching too. I believe it is the naso tang that I bought recently that started the outbreak. I had done a water change then added a product called NO-ICK that is safe for reef tanks even though I only have FOWLR. I will wait and see where this goes and if push comes to shove I am thinking of using coppersafe in the tank hopefully I don't have to, but if I did what would that do to the LR? There is nothing growing on the LR's other than a few pods and a little bit of coraline algae.:help:

 

[seaguru]

O.K. I think you may be a perfect candidate for HypoSalinity!!!
First, if the live rock is your only form of nitrogen cycle filtration ADD a sump w/ bio-balls or at the very least add a few "hang on the back filters w/ high density bacteria media"... OR selectively decide to leave say 1/3 of your life rock in the tank and then...
REMOVE all the other 2/3 of your live rock, all the inverts and crabs, etc you don't want to loose, etc. You can even move some of your sand or substrate with life in it that you want to save (and eventually seed your newly "sterilized" tank with later when you are done...)
Your tank that these go into does not need to be huge!!! Even a 10g or 15g will do if all your live rock/creatures will fit into it... (check this board's classifieds forum, I got a 40 breeder the other night cheap to use for exactly this purpose... I Quarantine everything, inverts, crabs, macroalgae, live rock... before I add it to my main system) AND for circulation add a pump or a hang on filter and heater, etc. and do keep up with the parameters as you would with your normal setup
THE BOTTOM LINE TO UNDERSTAND IS THAT YOU ARE SEPARATING THE PARASITE FROM THE HOSTS (THE FISH)...
Now your main tank with the fish left in it is ready for you to conduct HYPOSALINITY on it, if and only if you have purchased a REFRACTOMETER (online as cheap as $50)... and you can drop the salinity via multiple partial water changes (replace saltwater removed w/ freshwater) as quickly as 24 hours but I usually do it over 2 days... (Bringing the Salinity back up when you are done in 4-6 weeks is what has to be done very slowly say over at least a week)... During the hypo if you decided to leave some of your live rock in there the beneficial nitrifying bacteria in it and the coralline algae will survive the hypo, but all other reef life will perish on the live rock. (don't worry it will come back later eventually)
Now back to your tank with the inverts, live rock you have removed... DO NOT ADD ANY FISH TO IT AT ALL... the idea is for any parasites still seeking a host (fish) in there to die out trying... and any new parasites that may hatch from the tomont stage of their cycle... (and MOST PEOPLE JUST DON'T UNDERSTAND THAT THESE POPULATION OF PARASITES ARE IN VARIOUS STAGES OF THEIR LIFE CYCLES SO YOU WILL HAVE SOME Tomants in the sand/live rock, etc.) This tank will eventually become "ich free" over the next month or so while your main tank is under Hyposalinity!!!
PLEASE TAKE THE TIME TO READ MY "EPIC HYPO STORY AND TRIBUTE TO TERRY B." and you will see what I went thru...
HOPEFULLY YOU WILL NOT LOOSE ANYTHING IF YOU ACT SWIFTLY!
GOOD LUCK...
p.s. I forgot to mention to cut down drastically on your feeding after removing the live rock, don't worry fish can go hungry for a long time... unless you are sure you still have plenty of bacteria i.e. filtering capacity somewhere.