Things dead X_X

daftboy

Member
OK so i have been having some issues... anyone want to help me or tell me why =] ...Over the past 2 weeks I have notice that my smaller snails have been dying...im not sure why but i think i counted like 2 margita and 3 or so others....the Turbo snails i have in there are doing fine...and until last week I only had 2 fish in there....i do water changes every 2 weeks and clean the filter at least every 2 sometimes more...This morning my scarlet red crab was dead i saw body parts every where ...lol...the other red crab is find though ( i had two) ..I did some water test and ill post result in a minute...The 3 fish I have are Purplefire fish, yellow tail damsel and a PJ Cardinal...any idea what might be going on..why is my amm. up again... how do i get it down and any other things? should i clean that sand ...it looks gross to me
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20
PH 8.3
Ammon .5
 

flower

Well-Known Member

snails have a short life span, they eat, mate, lay eggs and die. Just because you see some empty shells does not mean you have no CUC...Hermits however do need bigger shells so they can grow. By some extra empty shells for them. What you saw was probably a shell war, hermits fight each other and kill snails for bigger shells when they are desperate.
Too many water changes and filter cleanings are not good. You kill off the good bacteria that a tank needs to be healthy. I think the sand looks gross and ammonia is high because you don't have enough bacteria to break down the waste. JMO
Ammonia at 0.5 is not really all that high... 0.5 means hardly registering at all. The high nitrate however is bad for inverts and you may have a cyano problem...you have to increase flow, don't overfeed and stop killing the good bacteria. Do small water changes once a month.
 
the red algae on the sand is cyano. Tons of posts on this sight about it. Go to the search and you can find out all kinds of things about it. I'm not a pro on it but everyone seems to get it at least once...I'm still fighting it now. I think the amonia spike is from the dead snails. I may be wrong but I'm sure someone on here can help you some more. I have lost snails also. Kinda curious what others have to say about it!
 

deltablack22

Active Member
I dont think thats cyano bacteria on the sand at all... Looks like diatoms to me. The tank appears to be new and the diatoms are just part of the cycle. They should go away in time.
 
Originally Posted by DeltaBlack22
http:///forum/post/3080474
I dont think thats cyano bacteria on the sand at all... Looks like diatoms to me. The tank appears to be new and the diatoms are just part of the cycle. They should go away in time.
Yea your right Delta....its not stringy
 

daftboy

Member
The bright red on that rock was the crab...=[...how do i get rid of the diatoms....or w/e they are called =/
 

extinct 1ne

Member
snails have a short life span, they eat, mate, lay eggs and die. Just because you see some empty shells does not mean you have no CUC...Hermits however do need bigger shells so they can grow. By some extra empty shells for them. What you saw was probably a shell war, hermits fight each other and kill snails for bigger shells when they are desperate.
Too many water changes and filter cleanings are not good. You kill off the good bacteria that a tank needs to be healthy. I think the sand looks gross and ammonia is high because you don't have enough bacteria to break down the waste. JMO
Ammonia at 0.5 is not really all that high... 0.5 means hardly registering at all. The high nitrate however is bad for inverts and you may have a cyano problem...you have to increase flow, don't overfeed and stop killing the good bacteria. Do small water changes once a month.
I agree. What I was told was to just either get snails or crabs, don't mix them (I'm not saying you can't, it's just to be safe, so I went with snails. They don't fight with anything). And if you get crabs, get some empty shells for them so they don't fight...
I would go snails. They are just easier.
 

tank a holic

Active Member
+1 on the snails
crabs molt all the time, especially the smaller ones, even though you found bodyparts, he's probubly still there hiding until his new shell hardens
also you need to get that ammonia down NOW!!!! .5 is way too high, should be 0
 

daftboy

Member
One person on here says not to do water changes so much...you say more...i do them regularly every 2 weeks...this is also a 28g.
 

d-man

Member
the best thing is to be consistent with your water changes , how much do you have to "top off" I have a problem with my salinity changing because of evaporation and that has been herd on my inverts... my crabs don't bother my snails at all the snails shells are too small most of the time and they breed way too fast anyway
 

tank a holic

Active Member
I only do my "regular WC's" once a month to 6 weeks, thats all my tank requires. Depending on water conditions, amount of live stock, type of live stock and size of tank your WC schedule will differ from others
NOW
we arent talking a regular WC here, we're talking you have a problem (pretty big one at that) that needs fixed right away, best way to do that is get the bad water out, and the good water in therefore an emergency WC is in order.
By the way, how old is your tank, how did you cycle it, and what kind of water do you use tap or ro/di
WC's wont kill your bacteria, bacteria lives on rocks and sand beds, in filter media and so forth not in water. Now as for cleaning your filter, yes ther could be a problem with killing bacteria if you dont do it properly
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Originally Posted by tank a holic
http:///forum/post/3081256
I only do my "regular WC's" once a month to 6 weeks, thats all my tank requires. Depending on water conditions, amount of live stock, type of live stock and size of tank your WC schedule will differ from others
NOW
we arent talking a regular WC here, we're talking you have a problem (pretty big one at that) that needs fixed right away, best way to do that is get the bad water out, and the good water in therefore an emergency WC is in order.
By the way, how old is your tank, how did you cycle it, and what kind of water do you use tap or ro/di
WC's wont kill your bacteria, bacteria lives on rocks and sand beds, in filter media and so forth not in water. Now as for cleaning your filter, yes ther could be a problem with killing bacteria if you dont do it properly
Just trying to be helpful...
You said in an earlier post .. to rinse the filter media in fresh water, that will indeed kill the bacteria. Rinse the media in saltwater. That will clean the clogged filter and not kill the bacteria.
 

spanko

Active Member
Daftboy, this is the 28 gallon tank correct?
"Set up. Fiji live rock,17 lbs, Live Sand,Canister:Fluval Multi-Stage 05 series 205,180GPH,T-8 over head single fluorescent 20w Pennplax FL20,150 watt heater"
Normally the "standard" for setting up a biofilter in a marine tank would be 1-1.5 lbs. per gallon of rock to allow for enough surface area for an effective biofilter. I would think the amount you have is at least about 10lbs. if not more too little.
Three fish in the tank are creating waste that is breaking down via the nitrogen cycle. You don't mention how much you are feeding them, also a waste producer.
You say you are cleaning the Fluval every 2 weeks. Can you elaborate some on the cleaning procedure you are using? In this tank it would seem that with the 2 week cleaning, the small amount of rockwork and the bioload that the filtermaterials would need to become part of the surface area required to have an effective bio filter. You may or may not be compromising this with the methodtime frame of cleaning. That is why I am asking you to go through you procedure with us.
The brown on the sand appears to be diatoms, an indicator in a tank that has been up since 18-Apr-2009 that there are excess nutrient in the system.
My feeling at this point is that;
You are under filtered for the bioload in the tank.
You have not struck a balance in water change schedules to accommodate the under filtering to remove the excess nutrient.
You may be overfeeding for the amount of livestock and biofiltering capability you have.
Your canister filter has become part of the bio filter as well as mechanical filter, is probably not being cleaned enough time wise, and depending on your answers may be being cleaned in a method that harms its bio filtering capability.
Snails die, especially margaritas as they are cooler water snails. I would think this to be unrelated to you issues with your dirty sand. I also believe that you are getting the ammonia reading because your test kit is old and the reagents are out of date, or the kit itself cannot read to degree necessary, or the color you may be trying to match is hard for the eye to calibrate to. What type of kit is it?
 

tank a holic

Active Member
Originally Posted by Flower
http:///forum/post/3081351
Just trying to be helpful...
You said in an earlier post .. to rinse the filter media in fresh water, that will indeed kill the bacteria. Rinse the media in saltwater. That will clean the clogged filter and not kill the bacteria.
dont remember saying that and couldnt find it but yes you're right, rinse the biological media with saltwater not fresh
 

daftboy

Member
If you read more of the other post in my tank setup you will see I have 31lbs of fiji in there...I had 17lbs for about a day since that was all the LFS had...So there is 30 in there now...Also I use Flakes to feed them...sometimes i use mysis as well...I try to feed every other day..when i clean then the media I rinse the soft white foam filters under tap water...the bio media though i just rinse out in salt water..my filter is not clogged
...I use tap water...then put in de-chloriner and usually let it sit over night so the temp is right...For my testing kit i use a API salt water test kit that is about 3 months old now..
 

spanko

Active Member
Nothing you said struck me as out of the ordinary with the exception of the tap water. You may be adding unwanted phosphates contributing to the diatom bloom.
 

tank a holic

Active Member
+1
also you dont need to use the de chlorinator, if you put a PH in the change water to keep it churning the chlorine will escape anyway but if you feel safer by all means use it. but when you get a chance buy an ro/di unit for about a hundred bucks off the big auction site

you can also get phosphates from using flake food
test your phates and if you need to, replace the white foam in your filter with phos pads
 
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