This look good?
- Thread starter krunk
- Start date
cboyfan2020
Active Member
Where does the overflow from the left side come from? Looks good.
broomer5
Active Member
Looks pretty good to me too, but I do have a couple of questions.
As cboyfan2020 mentioned, can you describe the overflow's in more detail ?
The one thing that stands out to me - is the position of both overflows. Position meaning
position in the tank and position relative to each other.
If one of the overflow ( teeth or water level ) is lower than the other - then this lower one would be the dominent overflow. It would receive the most water spilling over into it - and would have to handle the most water.
If they are positioned in the tank at the same level - then they would share the flow somewhat more equally.
If one is lower - it will take in much more water than the one that is higher.
This can cause a problem - especially in a 75 gallon tank using a Mag12.
The one on the left I assume is a drilled overflow/drain, with a 1" drainline ?
The external hang on overflow on the right is a 3/4" ?
What is the expected head pressure - vertical height - from mag12 to spraybar ?
You may find that if both overflows are not sharing the flow somewhat equally - that one will be maxed out before the other one sees much water at all.
It all depends on how each overflow is located in the tank -relative to each other, and relative to the normal operating tankwater level.
You don't want one to be too much lower than the other - or you could see some problems, espeially if the hang on 3/4" one is much lower than the drilled 1" overflow's teeth level.
Lastly - I see two wet/drys ? Is there a particular reason you've chosen this plan ? I'd like to hear more about what you plan to keep in the tank.
Looks pretty cool though
and should work well if the overflow level precautions are addressed.
As cboyfan2020 mentioned, can you describe the overflow's in more detail ?
The one thing that stands out to me - is the position of both overflows. Position meaning
position in the tank and position relative to each other.
If one of the overflow ( teeth or water level ) is lower than the other - then this lower one would be the dominent overflow. It would receive the most water spilling over into it - and would have to handle the most water.
If they are positioned in the tank at the same level - then they would share the flow somewhat more equally.
If one is lower - it will take in much more water than the one that is higher.
This can cause a problem - especially in a 75 gallon tank using a Mag12.
The one on the left I assume is a drilled overflow/drain, with a 1" drainline ?
The external hang on overflow on the right is a 3/4" ?
What is the expected head pressure - vertical height - from mag12 to spraybar ?
You may find that if both overflows are not sharing the flow somewhat equally - that one will be maxed out before the other one sees much water at all.
It all depends on how each overflow is located in the tank -relative to each other, and relative to the normal operating tankwater level.
You don't want one to be too much lower than the other - or you could see some problems, espeially if the hang on 3/4" one is much lower than the drilled 1" overflow's teeth level.
Lastly - I see two wet/drys ? Is there a particular reason you've chosen this plan ? I'd like to hear more about what you plan to keep in the tank.
Looks pretty cool though
and should work well if the overflow level precautions are addressed.
krunk
Member
Yes the first is a internal overflow and im making a durso standpipe. Now as one draining more water from the other, never thought about that, when i make the durso put them at same level? I can also take the external one off. The mag12 gets 1120gph at a 5' head, the mag from the tank is just about 5'.
Why i have two wet/drys is im really big on filteration.... Mabey i should use one for media? Im going too have a my eel(idk what species he is), a huma huma, and a niger triggerfish.
Why i have two wet/drys is im really big on filteration.... Mabey i should use one for media? Im going too have a my eel(idk what species he is), a huma huma, and a niger triggerfish.
broomer5
Active Member
You may want to allow for some flexibility when building the durso. Maybe make it so you can adjust the level up or down - as you see fit. Then when you find the sweet spot - make it more permanent.
Having an agressive tank - two wet/dry's or one wet/dry with another as additional mechanical filtering may be a pretty good plan. Messy eaters - lots of wastes.
Good luck !
Having an agressive tank - two wet/dry's or one wet/dry with another as additional mechanical filtering may be a pretty good plan. Messy eaters - lots of wastes.
Good luck !
cboyfan2020
Active Member
you could use the bioballs for media if you keep them maintained so your trates dont go through the roof...or use LR rubble peices(like 1" or smaller peices) in place of the bioballs. You can order rubble from a site but I cant recall its nameat this moment or go to your LFS and scrounge some up off the bottom of the LR tank.
krunk
Member
Cboyfan, email me at redscarex@hotmail.com if you find the rubble site.
krux
Member
someone who is more up on their physics please correct me if i am wrong, but judging from my baffle set up in my sump, with your baffles set that high your sump will look like this when running. might wanna lower them unless this is what you are going for. you might want to try very long baffles coming down from the top, and much shorter ones on the bottom, with them overlapping about 2".
cboyfan2020
Active Member
I wouldnt want to set them that low. Maybe halfway up the tank for the highest. If you lost some in evapation...looks like you could burn up the mag and not have a great deal of water volume for the fuge. JMO
krux
Member
you will have to factor the baffles based on two things:
the average ammount of evaporation that happens every day
and also wether or not you have an auto top-off system.
not knowing the scale (the height of your sump) you should give yourself a couple inches above the inlet for your pumps as mentioned above.
i wouldnt go less than about 3 days of water level drop, due to emergencies where you might not be able to monitor salinity and water level drop for a couple days.
if you have an auto top-off system in place, or if you plan to build one, you can get it a little closer to where you want it to optimally run.
the thing to keep in mind is the higher your water level sits, the more "wet" your wet-dry filter will be, since the higher your sump level rises, the more bio-balls or whatever media you use will be submerged.
for example, i know in my sump i lose about 1/4 of an inch per day, and since i top off my water daily it isnt a problem. however, i do maintain my water level a good 1.5 inches above the level where if it evaporated down, i would start to run into trouble with sucking in air. this allows me an absolute 6 days before i start to get in trouble, or 3 days of relatively safe margin in case i need to run for the weekend to go to the coast and what not.
just make sure you do not decide to factor in a 6 inch water drop, because when you start evaporating that much water, you will start having salinity issues.
if you have room under your tank, it might be a good idea to research some top-off systems that have a capacity of about a weeks worth of evaporation, so you have that much more insurance.
i would imagine on your system, guessing on scale, that this would be about 10 gallons in volume, but this all depends on what lights you will have running, and how much air movement you have in the form of cooling fans and what not. a simple 10-15 gallon rubbermaid tank, with a powerhead in it, plugged into a float switch is a very cheap way to acomplish this. just make sure the type of switch you use will not succome to the two most common problems with the devices, that they slip from their pisition causing the valve to open up pumping in all the water in one go, and also that it might stick closed, due to algae or critters, causing them to never open.
i do not use one myself as i dont get much evaporation, but based on diy plans i have seen, you should be able to build one, including reservoir, powerhead, and switch for around 30-40 dollars.
another simple fix is to put an elbow on your pump intake, pointed down, so that it is sitting 1" off the bottom of the sump, instead of 2-3" like it would be if the pipe came straight out. fittings would cost you less than a dollar, and might buy you a extra couple of days in event of a emergency. see illustration below.
the average ammount of evaporation that happens every day
and also wether or not you have an auto top-off system.
not knowing the scale (the height of your sump) you should give yourself a couple inches above the inlet for your pumps as mentioned above.
i wouldnt go less than about 3 days of water level drop, due to emergencies where you might not be able to monitor salinity and water level drop for a couple days.
if you have an auto top-off system in place, or if you plan to build one, you can get it a little closer to where you want it to optimally run.
the thing to keep in mind is the higher your water level sits, the more "wet" your wet-dry filter will be, since the higher your sump level rises, the more bio-balls or whatever media you use will be submerged.
for example, i know in my sump i lose about 1/4 of an inch per day, and since i top off my water daily it isnt a problem. however, i do maintain my water level a good 1.5 inches above the level where if it evaporated down, i would start to run into trouble with sucking in air. this allows me an absolute 6 days before i start to get in trouble, or 3 days of relatively safe margin in case i need to run for the weekend to go to the coast and what not.
just make sure you do not decide to factor in a 6 inch water drop, because when you start evaporating that much water, you will start having salinity issues.
if you have room under your tank, it might be a good idea to research some top-off systems that have a capacity of about a weeks worth of evaporation, so you have that much more insurance.
i would imagine on your system, guessing on scale, that this would be about 10 gallons in volume, but this all depends on what lights you will have running, and how much air movement you have in the form of cooling fans and what not. a simple 10-15 gallon rubbermaid tank, with a powerhead in it, plugged into a float switch is a very cheap way to acomplish this. just make sure the type of switch you use will not succome to the two most common problems with the devices, that they slip from their pisition causing the valve to open up pumping in all the water in one go, and also that it might stick closed, due to algae or critters, causing them to never open.
i do not use one myself as i dont get much evaporation, but based on diy plans i have seen, you should be able to build one, including reservoir, powerhead, and switch for around 30-40 dollars.
another simple fix is to put an elbow on your pump intake, pointed down, so that it is sitting 1" off the bottom of the sump, instead of 2-3" like it would be if the pipe came straight out. fittings would cost you less than a dollar, and might buy you a extra couple of days in event of a emergency. see illustration below.