jessica47421
Active Member
can someone tell me alittle about these? do they move alot, do they prefer sand bed or rocks?
tube anenome
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reefkprz
Active Member
they want sand. definatly.
they are nonphotosynthetic hunter-killer as well as filter feeders that have an amazing reach. generally they do not move a lot, the only real movement they make is to put their head out different holes if available on their tube. to move beyond their tube exposes them to predation so they are very unlikly to do so. they may feast upon fish (I have seen them pull in a half grown clown fish and eat it) clown fish will not host with this species of anemone to my knowledge.
Feeding: tube anemones are generally filter feeders that require regular feedings of live or frozen small foods, and an emphasis should be placed on small feedings made as frequently as time will allow. Minimally, feeding several times per week with some krill or shrimp pellets seems to suffice.
If you have a well-developed deep sandbed with lots of critters and/or a refugium design for your tank (especially if you develop a good culture of amphipods, copepods and mysids) they should do fine with this constant food source. Periodic additions (say twice a week or so) of krill, frozen or live brine shrimp or chopped fish or shrimp just to make sure that the animal is well fed will ensure your animal stays healthy.
they should be placed in the sand in a low or moderate low flow area of your tank well clear of any corals as they will kill any they can reach. light doesnt matter to them so overhangs and such are ideal for them as long as they are in the sand. use caution if you place them in the sand too near a rock they may attach to the rock, not usually but it is possible
cerianthids (tube anemone) are not actual anemone. Tube anemones are distinguished from true anemones by their two distinct whorls of tentacles on the oral disk. they have a batch of short "labial" tentacles which surround the mouth and then a ring of very long tentacles which encompass the outer edge of the oral disk. These long tentacles are used primarily in prey capture and defense, while the shorter labial tentacles are used primarily for prey manipulation and ingestion.
<The fully expanded feeding tentacles of a tube anemone such as this can form a foot diameter sphere around the end of the tube. Because the animals are active primarily at night, many aquarists place the tube without consideration for the length of the tentacles when extended. Failing to consider how far they can reach with their tentacles when expanded can lead to placing them within easy reach of delicate tank-mates. this section quoted from Robert Toonen>
More importantly, however, although cerianthids can withdraw into their tube, unlike true anemones they cannot contract the oral disk or withdraw their tentacles (Brusca & Brucsa 2002). That is a pretty major difference. If you've ever seen a true anemone feed, you've seen it contract the oral disk to bring it's tentacles closer to the mouth, and when disturbed the tentacles of true anemones are retracted, the oral disk is contracted and a sphincter muscle closes the top of the animal into a ball to protect itself. Cerianthids are unable to do this, and can only retract into their tube to try to protect themselves.
hope this helps.
they are nonphotosynthetic hunter-killer as well as filter feeders that have an amazing reach. generally they do not move a lot, the only real movement they make is to put their head out different holes if available on their tube. to move beyond their tube exposes them to predation so they are very unlikly to do so. they may feast upon fish (I have seen them pull in a half grown clown fish and eat it) clown fish will not host with this species of anemone to my knowledge.
Feeding: tube anemones are generally filter feeders that require regular feedings of live or frozen small foods, and an emphasis should be placed on small feedings made as frequently as time will allow. Minimally, feeding several times per week with some krill or shrimp pellets seems to suffice.
If you have a well-developed deep sandbed with lots of critters and/or a refugium design for your tank (especially if you develop a good culture of amphipods, copepods and mysids) they should do fine with this constant food source. Periodic additions (say twice a week or so) of krill, frozen or live brine shrimp or chopped fish or shrimp just to make sure that the animal is well fed will ensure your animal stays healthy.
they should be placed in the sand in a low or moderate low flow area of your tank well clear of any corals as they will kill any they can reach. light doesnt matter to them so overhangs and such are ideal for them as long as they are in the sand. use caution if you place them in the sand too near a rock they may attach to the rock, not usually but it is possible
cerianthids (tube anemone) are not actual anemone. Tube anemones are distinguished from true anemones by their two distinct whorls of tentacles on the oral disk. they have a batch of short "labial" tentacles which surround the mouth and then a ring of very long tentacles which encompass the outer edge of the oral disk. These long tentacles are used primarily in prey capture and defense, while the shorter labial tentacles are used primarily for prey manipulation and ingestion.
<The fully expanded feeding tentacles of a tube anemone such as this can form a foot diameter sphere around the end of the tube. Because the animals are active primarily at night, many aquarists place the tube without consideration for the length of the tentacles when extended. Failing to consider how far they can reach with their tentacles when expanded can lead to placing them within easy reach of delicate tank-mates. this section quoted from Robert Toonen>
More importantly, however, although cerianthids can withdraw into their tube, unlike true anemones they cannot contract the oral disk or withdraw their tentacles (Brusca & Brucsa 2002). That is a pretty major difference. If you've ever seen a true anemone feed, you've seen it contract the oral disk to bring it's tentacles closer to the mouth, and when disturbed the tentacles of true anemones are retracted, the oral disk is contracted and a sphincter muscle closes the top of the animal into a ball to protect itself. Cerianthids are unable to do this, and can only retract into their tube to try to protect themselves.
hope this helps.
jessica47421
Active Member
thank you alot of good info. i think i made a mistake i had him nest to my feather duster and i have not seen the feather in a week do you think the anenome killed him?
jessica47421
Active Member
also i have a golden angel fish i got for 120.00 do u think the fish are safe in there with him as long as i feed him? i just dont want to rish those fish or any others for that matter.
reefkprz
Active Member
Honestly, an aiptasia packs more whallop than the tube anemone, if your fish is healthy then I dont see much risk, bubble tips are also more powerfull, but its the reach that make tubes dangerous. IMO most fish are safe unless notoriously clumsy or of ill health.
there is a good chance that it killed your feather or it keeps stinging it forcing it to stay retracted.
there is a good chance that it killed your feather or it keeps stinging it forcing it to stay retracted.
jessica47421
Active Member
alright i have another question about these guys. mine has lost the end of his tube does this mean he is dying?
jessica47421
Active Member
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jessica47421
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bump
jessica47421
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shrimpi
Active Member
I got my tube anemone last week ($29 at my LFS)
I had wanted one for a long time, and came across my LFS having a big shipment of beautiful ones.
He is in about 5-6" of sand, next to some rocks in a shaded type area.
I have inverts, corals, a mandarin, goby, fuzzy dwarf lion all in the same tank... with no problems as of yet.
I feed him the same way I do my dendros.... DAILY. I throw him a small peice of meat, whatever Im feeding the rest of the tank and he grabs it very willingly.
Heres some pics of mine
I had wanted one for a long time, and came across my LFS having a big shipment of beautiful ones.
He is in about 5-6" of sand, next to some rocks in a shaded type area.
I have inverts, corals, a mandarin, goby, fuzzy dwarf lion all in the same tank... with no problems as of yet.
I feed him the same way I do my dendros.... DAILY. I throw him a small peice of meat, whatever Im feeding the rest of the tank and he grabs it very willingly.
Heres some pics of mine