Uh Oh...parasitic attacks on the rise.

rykna

Active Member
On another horse site 2 redi horses have fallen ill to the same parasite that claimed valiant.

Ectoparasites (External Parasites)
Cryptocaryon irritans, Amyloodinium (Oodinium) ocellatum, Brooklynella hostilis, parasitic crustaceans, gill flukes, Glugea, etc.
Causes/Problems
Ectoparasitic infections are most often caused by poor quarantine and pre-treatment practices. Most wild fish, including seahorses, routinely harbour ectoparasites with no problems. When infected fish are put through the stress of capture and transportation, weeks in holding facilities without food, and the sometimes volatile conditions that can occur in closed systems such as aquariums, their immune systems are weakened, and the parasites are given a chance to overtake their host. With proper quarantine and treatment before being placed in the display aquarium, often ectoparasites can be eradicated with ease.
Symptoms:
* visible parasites upon examination manifested as white spots, ulcerations, blisters, etc.
* cloudy eyes
* scratching on substrate
* wild or erratic behaviour
* signs of stress (washed out coloration, rapid breathing, etc.)
External parasites can cause death by several means, the most common being direct parasitism (stealing vital nutrients from another organism's blood or other bodily fluid), suffocation, and opening the gates for secondary infections. External parasites can consume so much of their host's nutrients that the host may wither and die from malnutrition. Suffocation can be caused by severe infestation of the gills (gill flukes). Also, parasites often cause open sores along the body of their host, and this, compounded with stress due to lack of adequate nutrition, leads to internal secondary infection, usually by a bacterium.
This seems to be a very common invader. What steps can seahorse keepers take to prevent these little parasites from claiming more horses??
 

ophiura

Active Member
From this description, they are just pointing out that many parasites (inlcuding things like ick, parasitic copepods, etc) are common with seahorses and other fish, which is no surprise. I would suggest an increase is also correlated with an increase in demand - so more people are reporting issues.
They actually give a lot of pointers above about proper QT and handling that are the primary defense against parasites.
 

rykna

Active Member
Originally Posted by ophiura
From this description, they are just pointing out that many parasites (inlcuding things like ick, parasitic copepods, etc) are common with seahorses and other fish, which is no surprise. I would suggest an increase is also correlated with an increase in demand - so more people are reporting issues.
They actually give a lot of pointers above about proper QT and handling that are the primary defense against parasites.
In all the fish I have kept, Seahorses seem the most sensitive to water quality.
When I had my reef tank I did monthly maintenance, and the water quality was perfect.
What are the differences between a horse tank and a reef tank....
~water movement/flow?
~more waste?
~coral & invert choices are different?
~lighting?
~amount of LR?
I also noticed that the water quality went down hill a lot faster. My reef tank would start sliding in the Nitrates/Nitrites by the end of the month, but nothing to cause concern or panic. The horse tank, on the other hand, was very inconsistent. The tank levels would vary from week to week. Even though I recycled the tank for almost 4 months, the levels did not level off like my reef tank had.
What did I miss?
 

darthtang aw

Active Member
Originally Posted by Rykna
In all the fish I have kept, Seahorses seem the most sensitive to water quality.
When I had my reef tank I did monthly maintenance, and the water quality was perfect.
What are the differences between a horse tank and a reef tank....
~water movement/flow?
~more waste?
~coral & invert choices are different?
~lighting?
~amount of LR?
I also noticed that the water quality went down hill a lot faster. My reef tank would start sliding in the Nitrates/Nitrites by the end of the month, but nothing to cause concern or panic. The horse tank, on the other hand, was very inconsistent. The tank levels would vary from week to week. Even though I recycled the tank for almost 4 months, the levels did not level off like my reef tank had.
What did I miss?
Ok there a majorly significant differences and you have listed all of them. You can compensate for these differences however. Seahorses produce far more waste than most fish as their digestive system is less developed and the excrete more "waste" product due to less digestion. The way to compensate for this is to have a bigger clean up crew. Mainly the smaller N. Snails will help with this dramatically and they will help sift your sand bed preventing waste and such from getting treapped and concentrated in the sand to later be released into the water. Bristleworms in abundance will help as well. Add a few little crabs and you are good to go...even peppermint shrimp.
I started mine with about 100 N. Snails, 15 hermits, 3 peppermint shrimp and had my LFS bag up a snack bag size of bristleworms for me. I also added a purple lobster. Some of these died off...but by the time the six months was up I hadn't had anymore clean up crew deaths in 2 months and seemed to have found the perfect balance. When I added my horses, I had no problems...a few snails died off but the others ate those without ever getting a spike or water quality issue. I also added an engineer goby first to the tank to help stabilize it further and get the tank on a feeding cycle in addition to sifting the sand a bit more.
Build your tank set up with the mindset to cultivate and propogate pods and other creatures in abundance. This way the horses will have "live" food to feed off of and you can feed less keeping your water quality cleaner as live creatures (pods and shrimp) wont dirty your water.
The more live rock the better...In my 55 set up I had almost 70 lbs of live rock. I never had my water parameters change after the tank had become established for 6 months with a cleaning crew (I fed the tank twice a week for this six months).
A lower flow rate will probably affect the health of your tank.....Higher flowing tanks in effect sort of polish the water on the rock and substrate surfaces. Lower flowing tanks are unable to do this as efficiently as the water doesn't move as much. Now this is my own theory and I have no scientific proof for this, but as my seahorses got bigger and I could increase the flow I noticed changes in the water purity and quality towards the better side when I did my monthly water changes.
Lighting won't be the issue, I have used reef lighting and standard hood lighting you can get at walmart...all with success.
 

rykna

Active Member
Thank you. "Aye de mi". So my tank was lacking LR big time, I only had 45lbs. And my clean up crew was non existent compared to your numbers.
Currently I have:
LR= 45lbs
Both snail and hermit numbers have dwindled..I started with 15/20 each
Snails= margarita ~5-7
Hermits= 7-10
Upgrade to?:
LR= 100lbs?
N. Snails= 200
Hermits= 30
P. Shrimps= 4-6
 

darthtang aw

Active Member
I would atleast add another 30 lbs of live rock...the more porous the better. It necessarily isn't about weigtht but about surface area. For instance I dislike tonga branch rock as it isn't porous and has less surface area. The porous rock with lots of crevices and caves is the main key. Increase your clean up crew as well. then let the tank establich for a minimum of six months...I left the snails that died off in the tank as well as the other guys will eat them...this way you can find your balance.
 
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