VHO vs. PC
- Thread starter bentrue
- Start date
overanalyzer
Active Member
IMHO I prefer VHO over PC - I have 150 Watts of VHO over my 20 and I like hte loosk of it and hte inhabitants better than under the 26 watts of PC I had over my 5 gallon.
Things look cleaner and crisper ....
as for Clams - some say the squamosa - I've not kept a clam in the tank - yet. but I think I woudl be willing to try a squamosa ... that is - if I did not just lay my hands on a rocking 125 gallon dual overflow tank .....
SPS - some people have kept them under PC's - but I think there is a lot more than just lighting that impacts their success - like continual feedings, high water column quality and excellent water quality ...etc. .....
Things look cleaner and crisper ....
as for Clams - some say the squamosa - I've not kept a clam in the tank - yet. but I think I woudl be willing to try a squamosa ... that is - if I did not just lay my hands on a rocking 125 gallon dual overflow tank .....
SPS - some people have kept them under PC's - but I think there is a lot more than just lighting that impacts their success - like continual feedings, high water column quality and excellent water quality ...etc. .....
justinx
Active Member
go with VHO. They are better all around IMO. I use VHO over a 20H and I can keep SOME sps corals. I have the lower light demanding corals in there (hydnophora, pocillopora, and a pachyseris) and all have shown some considerable growth. The pach. is a slow growing coral to begin with, but I have noticed that it has attaced itself with a base and I can see the development of growht. The Hydnophora has shown some recovery form some tissue damage that it incurred during transport, and it too has attached and formed a base. Now lets get one thing straight. . . i guarentee that both of these corals would do SIGNIFICANTLY better under MH. But they are growing, not just surviving. The pocillopra is another story. this coral is THRIVING under my VHO. It has spread throughout the tank through means of polyp "ejection" i think it was referred to. I now have new colonys on rocks that are on the very bottom of the tank. The parent colony has tripled in size in just under six months. It was acquired as a frag and is now IMO considered a "coral" ( I know that it is always a coral, but i use this to mean something other than a frag.
)
All of these corals have been in my system for almost 8 months.
Now since I had some success with these, i though I would try some of the more light intese corals such as Acropora. Lets just say that it ain't in there anymore
I also have a maxima, but it is small. I put it in there last october, and it has tripled in size and has shown constant growth since i acquired it.
DISCLAIMER: I have worked VERY VERY hard to make sure that my water quality is PRISTINE, and stays that way. Just having ten million watts over a tank isnt going to to squat if your water sucks. Keep that in mind.
HTH
Justin
)All of these corals have been in my system for almost 8 months.
Now since I had some success with these, i though I would try some of the more light intese corals such as Acropora. Lets just say that it ain't in there anymore
I also have a maxima, but it is small. I put it in there last october, and it has tripled in size and has shown constant growth since i acquired it.
DISCLAIMER: I have worked VERY VERY hard to make sure that my water quality is PRISTINE, and stays that way. Just having ten million watts over a tank isnt going to to squat if your water sucks. Keep that in mind.
HTH
Justin
aileena
Member
I cannot speak for the sps since I never kept them under vho's, but I do hope to try it someday soon, a few months after my tank cycles.
Clams are another touchy subject, I kept a blue maxima clam under my 3 24" vho bulbs on a 29g tank for almost 4 months before I sold the clam...I can tell you that in the 4 months I had the clam it grew a half an inch...I got rid of it when I tore down my setup...This is my experience not my opinion...I think that it would have done well under those lights for a long time...I did feed a lot of phyto too though, dont know if thats important or not...but I was told that it mattered...
Clams are another touchy subject, I kept a blue maxima clam under my 3 24" vho bulbs on a 29g tank for almost 4 months before I sold the clam...I can tell you that in the 4 months I had the clam it grew a half an inch...I got rid of it when I tore down my setup...This is my experience not my opinion...I think that it would have done well under those lights for a long time...I did feed a lot of phyto too though, dont know if thats important or not...but I was told that it mattered...
bentrue
Member
thanks for all the input!
looks like i am going to make the jump to VHO soon. do any of you have a certain set-up that has worked best for you? i can wire and do all that stuff so the DIY part of it wont be a big deal.
would the standard 2x24" VHO be good for a 29 or would 3 or 4 be better?
also, in making a big jump in wattage like that how will it affect my current tank inhabiatants?
justin - thanks for the great information! i am very interested in your tank care schedule as well. i am always looking to improve on my knowledge and experience.
thanks again!
looks like i am going to make the jump to VHO soon. do any of you have a certain set-up that has worked best for you? i can wire and do all that stuff so the DIY part of it wont be a big deal.
would the standard 2x24" VHO be good for a 29 or would 3 or 4 be better?
also, in making a big jump in wattage like that how will it affect my current tank inhabiatants?
justin - thanks for the great information! i am very interested in your tank care schedule as well. i am always looking to improve on my knowledge and experience.
thanks again!
justinx
Active Member
Another high quality electronic vho ballast is made by workhorse. the WH 7 will run up to 220w of VHO and the ballast costs less than half that of an icecap. the only thing that icecap has over the WH is the warranty.
As far as maintenance goes, I spent about a month and a half at least where i tested my water every day to determine the consumption rates of calcium and carbonates. From there, I could determine how much additives to use in order to keep my ca and alk levels stable and in a good range. I did all of this BEFORE i put corals in that required calcium (well, except for my frogspawn because I was naive and impatient, but knock on wood it survived and is still with me today!) During this time, my levels fluctuated daily. Finally, I got is down to the point where I could predict what the test results were going to be. After that I waited a week or two and made sure that the levels stayed stable. Once i got to that point, I made sure that i stuck to my regime very closely. I have yet to miss a day where the schedule changes in over 8 mo.
I also change 5% of my tank water on a weekly basis, every sunday, and I make sure that the fresh saltwater matches the levels in my tank for ca, alk, ph, etc. Basically it is the same water quality as what is in the display. This helps to keep nitrates down, and trace elements up, as well as keep things in check.
I also feed on a regular schedule, both the fish and the water column.
Basically, I monitor my tank VERY closely, and I dont let things slide because I am lazy or something or other. As soon as something does not look right, or is out of line with past numbers, I try and find the problem and do what I can to fix it.
A GREAT suggestion that I have to anyone new, or old to the reefkeeping hobby is to keep a written log of water tests. This gives you a history of your tank, also this helps to establish your consumption rates. Because you write down how much additive you used, and the next day you see how it affected your levels.
Well, I know that there is more to this than just what I have written, but this is what comes to mind . . .
Let me know if anyone has any more questions or would like a copy of the spreadsheet that I use to track my numbers.
HTH
Justin
As far as maintenance goes, I spent about a month and a half at least where i tested my water every day to determine the consumption rates of calcium and carbonates. From there, I could determine how much additives to use in order to keep my ca and alk levels stable and in a good range. I did all of this BEFORE i put corals in that required calcium (well, except for my frogspawn because I was naive and impatient, but knock on wood it survived and is still with me today!) During this time, my levels fluctuated daily. Finally, I got is down to the point where I could predict what the test results were going to be. After that I waited a week or two and made sure that the levels stayed stable. Once i got to that point, I made sure that i stuck to my regime very closely. I have yet to miss a day where the schedule changes in over 8 mo.
I also change 5% of my tank water on a weekly basis, every sunday, and I make sure that the fresh saltwater matches the levels in my tank for ca, alk, ph, etc. Basically it is the same water quality as what is in the display. This helps to keep nitrates down, and trace elements up, as well as keep things in check.
I also feed on a regular schedule, both the fish and the water column.
Basically, I monitor my tank VERY closely, and I dont let things slide because I am lazy or something or other. As soon as something does not look right, or is out of line with past numbers, I try and find the problem and do what I can to fix it.
A GREAT suggestion that I have to anyone new, or old to the reefkeeping hobby is to keep a written log of water tests. This gives you a history of your tank, also this helps to establish your consumption rates. Because you write down how much additive you used, and the next day you see how it affected your levels.
Well, I know that there is more to this than just what I have written, but this is what comes to mind . . .
Let me know if anyone has any more questions or would like a copy of the spreadsheet that I use to track my numbers.
HTH
Justin
tiffster
Member
justinx- I would love a copy of your spread sheet!!! I've been writing mine down in a journal and it's not very neat. My e-mail is
tiffany_phillips@hotmail.com
Thanks a bunch!
tiffany_phillips@hotmail.com
Thanks a bunch!
rook
Member
In my opinion,
Any possible benefit that VHO, MAY have over PC is inconsequential. The benefits, if any, do not warrent switching from an already established and paid for PC system to a new VHO system.
If you want something better, go with MH. Otherwise stick to corals that will thrive under PC.
Any possible benefit that VHO, MAY have over PC is inconsequential. The benefits, if any, do not warrent switching from an already established and paid for PC system to a new VHO system.
If you want something better, go with MH. Otherwise stick to corals that will thrive under PC.