Here's how I do waterchanges (probably more info than you need to know) . . .
-- With a 90g tank and a 10%-ish change, I'll mix up 12g of saltwater (I use 12g because I transfer water out of my RO/DI bucket using 5g buckets which can only practically hold 4g, so three of those), allow it to agitate for at least 24 hours and get the temp and SG to match the tank.
-- If the sides of the tank need a scrubbing, I do it now so that some of the algea is suspended in the water and some will get removed during the change. Now's also when I remove/clean the foam on the PH intakes. I usually allow the tank to keep running for a while so that some of the suspended particles will get caught in the mechanical filtration in the sump, which I'll clean during the change.
-- I turn off the return pump, PHs and heaters (They're all hooked to switched GFI boxes, so I just turn off the boxes). I wait around 20-30 minutes to allow the one heater that gets partially exposed to air time to cool a bit.
-- I have a siphon hose with a valve in it, so I take a 5g bucket and start siphoning into that, shutting off the valve when I need to empty the bucket (That maintains the siphon for the next bucket load), usually removing around 11g total.
-- Using an extra PH, I transfer the mixed water into a 5g bucket, then use another extra PH to pump that water into the tank.
-- The reason I mix up 12g and replace 11g is that allows me to check the SG afterwards and have a spare gallon of ready-to-go saltwater in case I end up a tad low in the tank (If SG too high, I can add some fresh water). Seems like 99 times out of 100 I don't need to make any adjustments, but nice to be able to right away if I have to.
And yes you are correct, periodic top-offs to replace evaporated water should be with fresh water.
Not sure if I understand what you're saying, but water-change water should not have "more salt", it should have the same salinity/SG as the tank.