water test results

[jonas-winslo]

I bought a Red Sea Marine Lab testing kit for my tank last week and i'm a little confused on what my results are supposed to be at. The instructions are terrible and don't say what your tank should be at. I specically want to know what an acceptable ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, and alkalinity level is. I have a 55 gallon reef tank with 2 clownfish if that helps. Thanks

 

[jay0705]

0 ammonia,o nitrite, nitrate under .5 ph in general for sw is 8.2. Alk idk about but iam sure a reefer will reply and know about that

 

[tthemadd1]

Nitrates should ideally be 0. Although it should be the only number fluctuating. Nitrite ammonia 0 all the time. Alk is good between 8-10. Calcium. 430-450. Hope that helps. Also Ph 8.

 

[flower]

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonas-winslo http:///t/396765/water-test-results#post_3535065
I bought a Red Sea Marine Lab testing kit for my tank last week and i'm a little confused on what my results are supposed to be at. The instructions are terrible and don't say what your tank should be at. I specically want to know what an acceptable ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, ph, and alkalinity level is. I have a 55 gallon reef tank with 2 clownfish if that helps. Thanks


Hi,

Red sea kits are hard to read, the colors are so close in hue, which is why it got a reputation for inaccuracy.

As already stated, no ammonia or nitrites are acceptable levels. If they are not 0, it's time to do an emergency water change.

Alkalinity depends on whether it's a reef or fish only. Re-read the instructions, I'm pretty sure someplace it does tell you what optimal readings should be. Red Sea was the first kit I ever had, and I know it told me in the instructions what the reading should be.

I really liked the Instant ocean kits, they have a little plastic chip to check your results with, it was for me...the easiest to read. I use SeaChem kits now because it comes with a regent, to be able to double check for accuracy.

PH: 8.0 - 8.4 (early morning will give you the lowest reading, and just before lights out the highest)
Cal: 450 - 500
PO4 (Phosphates): should also be 0
NO3 (nitrates): 0 (best) to 20 for corals to survive, over 40 and inverts die...fish don't care, even in the 100's
Ammonia: ALWAYS 0... any reading at all means you need to do a water change.
NO4 (nitrites): 0 any reading at all, and it means you had/have ammonia...do a water change.

 

[silverado61]

I use Red Sea for my tests and if you follow these "clarifying" steps that I give you, you'll get better results:

Red Sea is for fish only results. Not reef. "Read the note at the bottom of the KH test instructions."

With Red Sea you have to go with your first gut choice of color. If your over think it or over analyze it, that's where it can confuse you. If it's clearly between colors, just adjust the value accordingly. Example: PH color reads between 8.0 and 8.2. The value is 8.1

Make sure you swirl the vial for a full 10 seconds after you add each chemical for each test. DO NOT SHAKE ! The vials do not seal water tight and if you shake them

, a drop or two will leak out and throw off the results.

Do NOT use your finger to cover the vial.

Swirl the vial for 10 seconds after each "drop" when you do the KH test. If you add a drop and you think it turned green, add one more drop. It will clearly turn yellow. Then just subtract one drop count. Example: If drop nine turns green and drop ten turns yellow, nine is your value. The back of the card gives you the dkH and Meq/L conversion.

Don't forget to shake, yes I said shake this time, the NO3-A bottle for a full 30 seconds before using it for the NO3 test. That's important.

When you do the NH3/NH4 test, it says to shake the vial for 10 seconds after you put the crystals in. Wrong. SWIRL it till "every" crystal is dissolved.

If you have any questions, just PM me.