We need a sticky


Active Member
I wrote this a while back, maybe we can use it as an intro to the sticky...
Anemones and Lighting Overview.
Too often we are lead to think that certain species of anemones can survive under sub par lighting (no pun intended) this is one of the biggest reasons why anemones in general perish in captivity. So where or when did it all go wrong? Well very often anemones are shipped to our LFS are in poor condition. They are often placed under marginal lighting at our LFS. And all too often inexperienced hobbyist purchase unhealthy anemones. Going by the advice of their LFS they are lead to believe that the animal is healthy and that you can keep it under normal output fluorescent lighting.
Let’s start with going by this general rule, all anemones require very intense lighting. Now that we know this, what is intense lighting? Well, that depends on a few different factors. First, the species of anemone you are considering. While some maybe able to survive under PC, HO-T5 or VHO light other species cannot be under anything but metal halide lighting. Next would be to consider your tank size. Forget watts per gallon when determining the correct amount of light for your anemone. Look more towards the size of your tank, and more specifically the height. When you are considering buying an anemone, the lighting you have for it, should be intense enough to sustain it no matter where it decides to reside in your tank. So having a light intense enough to reach the bottom of your tank is important. Research your tank size and the appropriate light that makes this scenario work and your animal will be happy.
Looking at anemones general health requirements, we see them in all different environments under all different types of lighting and still they look healthy. Why is this...? Well for one, there are different stages to an anemone's health. Some anemone's under poor poor conditions, ie, lack of sufficient lighting coupled with poor water quality may deteriorate very quickly. Others with marginal lighting and perfect water and tank parameters may take a year or longer to wither and die. Success with one of these animals is something the aquarist should be looking at in years not weeks or even months. When planning to have one it is important that you research the specific species you are interested in. Make sure you have the proper set up for it, plan for its health long term, i.e., years. This will mean knowing how large the specimen is capable of getting. What the potential hazards are to having one, what happens if and when they die. And being able to identify what an unhealthy anemone looks like. More often than not we purchase unhealthy anemones from our LFS and don’t even realize it. While near death specimens are very easy to identify, slightly stressed or early stages of sickness in some are not easy.
Below is a list of common anemone species and their general requirements for long term care and success.


I was kicked offline for alittle while from the storms.
How are the articals coming or did this drop off.
I see perfect dark has an overveiw posted now if we can get some of the individual species done and put it all together.


Active Member
I'm still working on it, I'm just not satisfied with the hard data that I have found so far. I need more concrete facts to really flesh out my write up. sorry about the delay, i just want this to bhe as spot on as possible and not based on here say and supposition.


Active Member
Yep, im still here I have my info for BTA's I need to now organize it and make understandable... LOL. Been busy here at work last few weeks.


New Member
I have a web site just for the care of BTA's and would happily let you put the url for it here.
Instead of writing something up fast.
Just a thought


You guys should start a basketball team, this team work is AMAZING!!!!


All started by me


just messing. Im just happy to see that real knowledgable people are working on this


Please email or PM if you are ready but this thread needs to be unstickyied its been up for almost 4 months.
Hope we can get something done up if not I will start working on something as time permits.
Thanks guys.


Active Member
Lighting requirements:
The BTA is probably one of the very few species of anemone that can be kept under a variety of different types of light. I will try to explain this in a manner that addresses different scenarios, specifically tank sizes in relationship to the intensity of the supplied light. My personal experience along with research and a lot of reading, is the basis of my information.
What is most challenging with addressing lighting and BTA's is, there is no specific type of light and no specific amount of wattage that is a must have or else sort of thing for this animal to survive. The margins are wide, this is good and bad, when combining different tank heights with different light types, you will get different results in the behavior of the animal. Some are tolerable, some are a pain and some are unhealthy for its survival. What we are striving for is that combination that best suits the animal without sacrifice.
The BTA is relatively hardy and adaptable species of anemone. It is often stated that this anemone can survive under NO (normal output) PC (power compact) flourescent lighting. This is true but it is not unconditional, there are a few factors to consider that might make keeping a BTA under this type of light a nusiance. Adversly, too intense of a light source may also make your BTA unhappy and create issues. So, what do we need to know? First would be the height of your tank. Second would be to know that these anemones will roam until they find a place they feel comfortable in. If you have PC lights and your tank height is greater than 12" expect the animal to be limited to where it will benefit from the light. It will most likely reside 12" to only a few inches from the direct light depending on how much light there is. Anything +12" in tank height alternate light types should be considered. The big question always is, Can my BTA live under PC lighting in a tank 16", 20", 22", 24", 30" etc etc.. deep? The answer...Yes it can. But, and this is a big BUT!! you have limited it to a small area of your tank, and there is no guarantee that it will stay there. The more you gain in tank height and size with out increasing the intensity of the light the more you decrease your animals survival rate and placement in your tank. You are limiting it to an isolated area of your tank and hoping it will stay there. Your options are clear, look into more intense lighting, HO-T5 lights or Metal Halide. (On a side note, increasing the intensity of your light when addressing tank height does not mean increasing the wattage of the light source, it means changing the actual light source.) There are statements made that too intense of a light source will result in the same behavior, or BTA's often hide from very intense lighting. Is this true? Yes it is...However, in every circumstance I have read about or encountered, the BTA adapts to the higher intense light without issue, and soon settles in. In the opposite scenario (not intense enough light) this is not the case, the anemone stays mobile or sacrifices one of its needs to suit another (flow/light). Then all of a sudden days, weeks or even a month later it will move again to seek out what it has been missing.
Something else to think about. When deciding on lighting and a BTA consider light cycle time frames. Under PC lighting depending on how far away your anemone is, you may need to keep your lights on for 10+ hrs. However under metal halide or HO-T5's this light period could very well be shorted to 6 to 8 hrs.
The health of your BTA is based on a combination factors. IMO they are in this order, ideal lighting, (and tied for first) perfect water quality meaning no toxic chemicals and ideal levels of trace elements. What I have found is having all 3 of those needs met makes for an extremely hardy animal, I would say off the record, making them almost difficult to kill. However sacrificing any one of them to marginal standards decreases their hardiness exponentially, especially lighting and toxins. So much so, that the slightest variance in any parameter can have an enormous impact on their health.
As you can see there is no clear cut rule of thumb here, but I hope that through this, some understanding is achieved regarding the available options for lighting and a BTA.


Great read PerfectDark

I think you put it in a way that makes a lot of sense and easy to understand. Once again GREAT JOB


New Member
Nice writeup on the BTA, i've gone slightly coo-coo for cocoa puffs trying to find some decent information on my BTA on the other site i usually frequent, and after being on this site for about 30 minutes, i found your post and just wanted to say THANKS!!!!! =)