What do you think of this diy sump
- Thread starter jeremy ss
- Start date
jeremy ss
New Member
How i drilled my own tank
part's list
1'' bulkhead and pond hose with 1 '' converter.
1 1/2 '' bulkhead and 1 1/2 pvc.
glass core dill bit's 65 mm and 48 mm
The 48 mm bit is for the 1 '' bulkhead
The 65 mm bit is for the 1 1/2'' bulkhead.
power drill.
The easiest way to keep your drill in place is to use a jig i used a piece of plywood and an adjustbible wood hole saw set to the outside perimitar of the glass core drill bits.
With the jig in place working outside i ran a garden hose over the top of the tank while drilling.
Before punch out i removed the jig so i could see where i was drilling the hole there should be a hole etched into the tank that can be used to hold the bit into place if the bit does not sit inside the hole continue to use the jig until it does.
This is the link for the inexpensive bit's that i used
http://stores.----.ca/THK-Diamond-To...24073QQfrsrcZ1
part's list
1'' bulkhead and pond hose with 1 '' converter.
1 1/2 '' bulkhead and 1 1/2 pvc.
glass core dill bit's 65 mm and 48 mm
The 48 mm bit is for the 1 '' bulkhead
The 65 mm bit is for the 1 1/2'' bulkhead.
power drill.
The easiest way to keep your drill in place is to use a jig i used a piece of plywood and an adjustbible wood hole saw set to the outside perimitar of the glass core drill bits.
With the jig in place working outside i ran a garden hose over the top of the tank while drilling.
Before punch out i removed the jig so i could see where i was drilling the hole there should be a hole etched into the tank that can be used to hold the bit into place if the bit does not sit inside the hole continue to use the jig until it does.
This is the link for the inexpensive bit's that i used
http://stores.----.ca/THK-Diamond-To...24073QQfrsrcZ1
jeremy ss
New Member
http://stores.----.ca/THK-Diamond-To...24073QQfrsrcZ1
The first link did not seem to work hope this one does.
The first link did not seem to work hope this one does.
S
saltycrab
Guest
Those sponges probably have mold inhibitors in them which can kill your tank.
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Jeremy, looks good. I like the concept. You cant post links here. The mods nuke 'em.
IMO, the scrubbies work good for increasing bio filter bacteria. And act relatively well for a "wet/dry" type of application like yours would be. However in my opinion, your live rock and sand in the first compartment make them not really necessary, possibly not even effective. IMO, you would be better off running a macro algae in that section. Like cheato or calerpa. This would have a great effect for you I believe. However like I said, looks good.
IMO, the scrubbies work good for increasing bio filter bacteria. And act relatively well for a "wet/dry" type of application like yours would be. However in my opinion, your live rock and sand in the first compartment make them not really necessary, possibly not even effective. IMO, you would be better off running a macro algae in that section. Like cheato or calerpa. This would have a great effect for you I believe. However like I said, looks good.
yearofthenick
Active Member
Macro Algae is seaweed looking stuff. The reason it's called Macro algae is because it's bigger (put very simply) and micro algae is the stuff you scrub off your tank glass.
The most commonly used macro algae is Chaetomorpha (or Chaeto to hobbyists, sounds like "kaytoe") and it does a number of great things for your tank. Debatably the main reason you put chaeto in your sump is because it reduces the nitrates so you don't have to change your water as often.
The only down side to chaeto is that you need to figure out how to give it light - since it's a plant it needs light - and you have to figure out a way to give light to your sump if you're going to add it. It's not hard though. By the way, if you add chaeto, sand, and live rock in a chamber of your sump, it's generally called a "refugium."
Another macro algae is Caulerpa (kuh-lerr-puh). But it's the more complicated of the two because it tends to "go sexual" meaning it releases crap into your water because it wants to reproduce, and can provide much trouble for you. The best way to counter caulerpa algae going sexual is by leaving the refugium light on 24/7.
There's also been different uses as to how much the refugium light should be on. There are three main methods:
1. Keep the light on 24/7 - This means that the chaeto is always growing and reducing your nitrates... the only bad thing about it is the growth will need to be regularly cut off because it could overcrowd your refugium and cause problems with water flow and a bunch of other reasons I can't think of. The good thing is if you do it this way, you'll grow a lot of chaeto really fast, and you could sell that extra chaeto on here... people buy and sell chaeto all the time.
2. Have it go on/off whenever your tank lights are on/off - This one is more commonly used, just because it seems to make the most sense. You don't have a whole lot of over growth and the chaeto does not need to be cut as often.
3. Refugium lights and Tank lights work opposite of each other (meaning that when the tank lights are ON the refugium lights are OFF and when the tank lights are OFF the refugium lights are ON) - This is one that i personally use. It allows for the corals to "trade" the light time with the chaeto. Not sure exactly how this works, but I've been told it's the best method.
The most commonly used macro algae is Chaetomorpha (or Chaeto to hobbyists, sounds like "kaytoe") and it does a number of great things for your tank. Debatably the main reason you put chaeto in your sump is because it reduces the nitrates so you don't have to change your water as often.
The only down side to chaeto is that you need to figure out how to give it light - since it's a plant it needs light - and you have to figure out a way to give light to your sump if you're going to add it. It's not hard though. By the way, if you add chaeto, sand, and live rock in a chamber of your sump, it's generally called a "refugium."
Another macro algae is Caulerpa (kuh-lerr-puh). But it's the more complicated of the two because it tends to "go sexual" meaning it releases crap into your water because it wants to reproduce, and can provide much trouble for you. The best way to counter caulerpa algae going sexual is by leaving the refugium light on 24/7.
There's also been different uses as to how much the refugium light should be on. There are three main methods:
1. Keep the light on 24/7 - This means that the chaeto is always growing and reducing your nitrates... the only bad thing about it is the growth will need to be regularly cut off because it could overcrowd your refugium and cause problems with water flow and a bunch of other reasons I can't think of. The good thing is if you do it this way, you'll grow a lot of chaeto really fast, and you could sell that extra chaeto on here... people buy and sell chaeto all the time.
2. Have it go on/off whenever your tank lights are on/off - This one is more commonly used, just because it seems to make the most sense. You don't have a whole lot of over growth and the chaeto does not need to be cut as often.
3. Refugium lights and Tank lights work opposite of each other (meaning that when the tank lights are ON the refugium lights are OFF and when the tank lights are OFF the refugium lights are ON) - This is one that i personally use. It allows for the corals to "trade" the light time with the chaeto. Not sure exactly how this works, but I've been told it's the best method.