scottnlisa
Member
When I bought my tank, the guy gave me a bucket full of connectors and 3 of these ballasts. I think they are T-8 connectors that are splash proof but not sure about the ballasts. Thanks.
What kind of ballast and light fixture is this?
- Thread starter scottnlisa
- Start date
acrylic51
Active Member
That's a flourescent VHO ballast T12 bulbs.......looks like German 3pc endcaps.....they should come apart with the smaller white ring, and then the back part should separate from the rest of the endcap......I will only use 3pc endcaps when using VHO's.
Aro ballast are decent, and relatively cheap to replace if needed.
Aro ballast are decent, and relatively cheap to replace if needed.
scottnlisa
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3280226
That's a flourescent VHO ballast T12 bulbs.......looks like German 3pc endcaps.....they should come apart with the smaller white ring, and then the back part should separate from the rest of the endcap......I will only use 3pc endcaps when using VHO's.
Aro ballast are decent, and relatively cheap to replace if needed.
If I am going to have a FOWLR tank, do I need to use VHO T-12 lights?
http:///forum/post/3280226
That's a flourescent VHO ballast T12 bulbs.......looks like German 3pc endcaps.....they should come apart with the smaller white ring, and then the back part should separate from the rest of the endcap......I will only use 3pc endcaps when using VHO's.
Aro ballast are decent, and relatively cheap to replace if needed.
If I am going to have a FOWLR tank, do I need to use VHO T-12 lights?
scottnlisa
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3280244
What other type of lighting do you have? You could use the VHO's and run 03's for your blues if you have MH's.
Right now I am running 4 36" T-8's. 2 lights are actinics and 2 are 10,000K. The problem I am having is that my lights don't come on in the morning unless I whiggle and turn the bulbs then they turn on.
http:///forum/post/3280244
What other type of lighting do you have? You could use the VHO's and run 03's for your blues if you have MH's.
Right now I am running 4 36" T-8's. 2 lights are actinics and 2 are 10,000K. The problem I am having is that my lights don't come on in the morning unless I whiggle and turn the bulbs then they turn on.
scottnlisa
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3280270
Sounds like there might be an issue with the endcaps or possibly the bulbs....How old are the bulbs? What type of endcaps, wiring are you currently using?
Here is the connector I am using now:
Here is the ballast I am using right now :
This set-up is what I am using the 4 T-8's with. The bulbs are about 3-4 months old. This problem has occured since I got the tank and got it running.
http:///forum/post/3280270
Sounds like there might be an issue with the endcaps or possibly the bulbs....How old are the bulbs? What type of endcaps, wiring are you currently using?
Here is the connector I am using now:
Here is the ballast I am using right now :
This set-up is what I am using the 4 T-8's with. The bulbs are about 3-4 months old. This problem has occured since I got the tank and got it running.
scottnlisa
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3280244
What other type of lighting do you have? You could use the VHO's and run 03's for your blues if you have MH's.
What do you mean run 03's and what is MH's?
http:///forum/post/3280244
What other type of lighting do you have? You could use the VHO's and run 03's for your blues if you have MH's.
What do you mean run 03's and what is MH's?
acrylic51
Active Member
Sorry....03's (actinic blue) and MH (Metal Halide). It's possible you have a bad connection as far as the wiring in the light socket itself, but it could be inside the socket itself. I would definitely get rid of the current endcaps your using. Even with good endcaps it's possible to get arcing going on inside and heat buildup destroys them. If there is to much arcing you'll see them turn brown/black and they will melt and catch fire.
Honestly sounds like a bad connection in the endcap. What do the ends of the bulbs look like? Any discoloration? Corrosion? White crusty buildup?
Honestly sounds like a bad connection in the endcap. What do the ends of the bulbs look like? Any discoloration? Corrosion? White crusty buildup?
scottnlisa
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3280284
Sorry....03's (actinic blue) and MH (Metal Halide). It's possible you have a bad connection as far as the wiring in the light socket itself, but it could be inside the socket itself. I would definitely get rid of the current endcaps your using. Even with good endcaps it's possible to get arcing going on inside and heat buildup destroys them. If there is to much arcing you'll see them turn brown/black and they will melt and catch fire.
Honestly sounds like a bad connection in the endcap. What do the ends of the bulbs look like? Any discoloration? Corrosion? White crusty builup?
So if I have everything I need to go to VHO T-12's according to you, should I buy new T-8 connectors, or wire up the VHO's and go T-12 in your opinion?
http:///forum/post/3280284
Sorry....03's (actinic blue) and MH (Metal Halide). It's possible you have a bad connection as far as the wiring in the light socket itself, but it could be inside the socket itself. I would definitely get rid of the current endcaps your using. Even with good endcaps it's possible to get arcing going on inside and heat buildup destroys them. If there is to much arcing you'll see them turn brown/black and they will melt and catch fire.
Honestly sounds like a bad connection in the endcap. What do the ends of the bulbs look like? Any discoloration? Corrosion? White crusty builup?
So if I have everything I need to go to VHO T-12's according to you, should I buy new T-8 connectors, or wire up the VHO's and go T-12 in your opinion?
scottnlisa
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3280284
Honestly sounds like a bad connection in the endcap. What do the ends of the bulbs look like? Any discoloration? Corrosion? White crusty buildup?
No the endcaps look great. No corrosion on hte connectors either
http:///forum/post/3280284
Honestly sounds like a bad connection in the endcap. What do the ends of the bulbs look like? Any discoloration? Corrosion? White crusty buildup?
No the endcaps look great. No corrosion on hte connectors either
acrylic51
Active Member
Originally Posted by scottnlisa
http:///forum/post/3280286
So if I have everything I need to go to VHO T-12's according to you, should I buy new T-8 connectors, or wire up the VHO's and go T-12 in your opinion?
Honestly If I had everything I needed to run the T-12's I would swap them out.....IMHO in the flourescent market I still haven't seen a better looking bulb than UV Lightings bulbs with the internal reflectors....JMO.
http:///forum/post/3280286
So if I have everything I need to go to VHO T-12's according to you, should I buy new T-8 connectors, or wire up the VHO's and go T-12 in your opinion?
Honestly If I had everything I needed to run the T-12's I would swap them out.....IMHO in the flourescent market I still haven't seen a better looking bulb than UV Lightings bulbs with the internal reflectors....JMO.
acrylic51
Active Member
Originally Posted by scottnlisa
http:///forum/post/3280287
No the endcaps look great. No corrosion on hte connectors either
Have you tried wiggling the wires instead of turning the bulbs? Have you tried a different bulb in the socket? Have you checked the voltage to the sockets when the are suppose to fire? Maybe turn the ballast off and pull the bulbs and get a multimeter out hook your meter up and turn the ballast on and see what your reading when the ballast is turned on. The ballast does lok alittle beat though.
http:///forum/post/3280287
No the endcaps look great. No corrosion on hte connectors either
Have you tried wiggling the wires instead of turning the bulbs? Have you tried a different bulb in the socket? Have you checked the voltage to the sockets when the are suppose to fire? Maybe turn the ballast off and pull the bulbs and get a multimeter out hook your meter up and turn the ballast on and see what your reading when the ballast is turned on. The ballast does lok alittle beat though.
acrylic51
Active Member
Originally Posted by scottnlisa
http:///forum/post/3280282
Here is the connector I am using now:
Here is the ballast I am using right now :
This set-up is what I am using the 4 T-8's with. The bulbs are about 3-4 months old. This problem has occured since I got the tank and got it running.
Are you sure the wiring is correct on the ballast itself? Meaning grounds and such?
http:///forum/post/3280282
Here is the connector I am using now:
Here is the ballast I am using right now :
This set-up is what I am using the 4 T-8's with. The bulbs are about 3-4 months old. This problem has occured since I got the tank and got it running.
Are you sure the wiring is correct on the ballast itself? Meaning grounds and such?
scottnlisa
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3280290
Honestly If I had everything I needed to run the T-12's I would swap them out.....IMHO in the flourescent market I still haven't seen a better looking bulb than UV Lightings bulbs with the internal reflectors....JMO.
I don't mean to ask stupid questions but what are internal reflectors? Do T-12 connectors and T-8 connectors the same? I had a spare T-8 and just tried to fit it into the T-12 connector and it fit. Just the size of the bulb didn't seal against the rubber seal of the connector. T-12's will give me better lighting then T-8's?
http:///forum/post/3280290
Honestly If I had everything I needed to run the T-12's I would swap them out.....IMHO in the flourescent market I still haven't seen a better looking bulb than UV Lightings bulbs with the internal reflectors....JMO.
I don't mean to ask stupid questions but what are internal reflectors? Do T-12 connectors and T-8 connectors the same? I had a spare T-8 and just tried to fit it into the T-12 connector and it fit. Just the size of the bulb didn't seal against the rubber seal of the connector. T-12's will give me better lighting then T-8's?
acrylic51
Active Member
Internal reflectors are reflectors built inside the bulbs....not all bulbs have them.....I have never used T-8 connectors myself, but I would almost assume they are different due to pin size of the bulbs.....Personally I would never use those endcaps/connectors you posted over a tank, especially a saltwater tank. To many chances of corrosion to occur and a good place for current to leak or short, and give you a good zap.
scottnlisa
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3280298
Internal reflectors are reflectors built inside the bulbs....not all bulbs have them.....I have never used T-8 connectors myself, but I would almost assume they are different due to pin size of the bulbs.....Personally I would never use those endcaps/connectors you posted over a tank, especially a saltwater tank. To many chances of corrosion to occur and a good place for current to leak or short, and give you a good zap.
OKay then, your sure they are T-12 HVO connectors and the ballasts are for those connectors i have in the pics? How much better performance light wise are the T-12's compared to T-8? Also what gauge wire should I get to run between the connectors and the ballast? What length T-12 VHO can I run with those ballasts?
http:///forum/post/3280298
Internal reflectors are reflectors built inside the bulbs....not all bulbs have them.....I have never used T-8 connectors myself, but I would almost assume they are different due to pin size of the bulbs.....Personally I would never use those endcaps/connectors you posted over a tank, especially a saltwater tank. To many chances of corrosion to occur and a good place for current to leak or short, and give you a good zap.
OKay then, your sure they are T-12 HVO connectors and the ballasts are for those connectors i have in the pics? How much better performance light wise are the T-12's compared to T-8? Also what gauge wire should I get to run between the connectors and the ballast? What length T-12 VHO can I run with those ballasts?
acrylic51
Active Member
Yes the pics you posted are the 3pc endcaps, which are designed for our application.....And yes they are T-12's The ballast will/are super easy to wire into the endcaps......You can use regular light cord wire to wire from the ballast to the end caps. What I like to do is the portion of the wire that goes into the endcap I like to twist it tight and run solder over it, to make it super easy to get in place and that way you don't have stray strands possibly sticking out.....
I have to go back and take a peak at the ballast to see what you can run.......be back
I have to go back and take a peak at the ballast to see what you can run.......be back
acrylic51
Active Member
Originally Posted by scottnlisa
http:///forum/post/3280218
When I bought my tank, the guy gave me a bucket full of connectors and 3 of these ballasts. I think they are T-8 connectors that are splash proof but not sure about the ballasts. Thanks.
The ballast will power up to 220W of light/bulbs.... On the endcaps you have posted....if you look at the very bottom where the wires go into it, there should be 2 little screws, that you would pull out and it should separate from the mount, and your should be then able to accesss the bottom of the endcap and you'll have to use a paperclip or a very small screwdriver to hit the pin to pull he wiring out of each of the holes.....very easy and simple swap.......
If possible, can you take a better pic of the ballast so I can read the front of the ballast entirely....Thanks!!!!!!
http:///forum/post/3280218
When I bought my tank, the guy gave me a bucket full of connectors and 3 of these ballasts. I think they are T-8 connectors that are splash proof but not sure about the ballasts. Thanks.
The ballast will power up to 220W of light/bulbs.... On the endcaps you have posted....if you look at the very bottom where the wires go into it, there should be 2 little screws, that you would pull out and it should separate from the mount, and your should be then able to accesss the bottom of the endcap and you'll have to use a paperclip or a very small screwdriver to hit the pin to pull he wiring out of each of the holes.....very easy and simple swap.......
If possible, can you take a better pic of the ballast so I can read the front of the ballast entirely....Thanks!!!!!!
scottnlisa
Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
http:///forum/post/3280347
Yes the pics you posted are the 3pc endcaps, which are designed for our application.....And yes they are T-12's The ballast will/are super easy to wire into the endcaps......You can use regular light cord wire to wire from the ballast to the end caps. What I like to do is the portion of the wire that goes into the endcap I like to twist it tight and run solder over it, to make it super easy to get in place and that way you don't have stray strands possibly sticking out.....
I have to go back and take a peak at the ballast to see what you can run.......be back
All 8 connectors have about 12" of wire already coming out of the connector already with the other end stripped and ready to be connected to a longer wire to go to the ballast. Also which lights do I need for my tank? Right now I have 2 36" anatic(spelling) and 2 36" 10,000K. Can I go to a 2 48" anactic and 2 48" 10,000K? Do T-12's come like that? Or do you think I need different colors and sizes?
http:///forum/post/3280347
Yes the pics you posted are the 3pc endcaps, which are designed for our application.....And yes they are T-12's The ballast will/are super easy to wire into the endcaps......You can use regular light cord wire to wire from the ballast to the end caps. What I like to do is the portion of the wire that goes into the endcap I like to twist it tight and run solder over it, to make it super easy to get in place and that way you don't have stray strands possibly sticking out.....
I have to go back and take a peak at the ballast to see what you can run.......be back
All 8 connectors have about 12" of wire already coming out of the connector already with the other end stripped and ready to be connected to a longer wire to go to the ballast. Also which lights do I need for my tank? Right now I have 2 36" anatic(spelling) and 2 36" 10,000K. Can I go to a 2 48" anactic and 2 48" 10,000K? Do T-12's come like that? Or do you think I need different colors and sizes?