What to use to protect wood from H20?

mmslue79

Member
Well I just got done designing my canopy and stand for my 120. I am going to use pine for the material. And I am going to paint or stain it black. My question to you guys/gals is what do I use to protect the wood/finish from H20? And I apply it after I paint or stain the stand and canopy, correct? Well it only took me 2 hours to complete my plans, I tried to post them on my webshots page but it did not work. I will keep everyone updated when I do get them on the web!
 

slick

Active Member
Well first on the inside I would paint it white. Try to find this bathroom paint I can't remember what it's called but it is used to fight mildew. On the outside I think you could just paint it and would be fine.
 

broomer5

Active Member
Pine's pretty soft wood.
If you stain it - you'll want to consider using a pre-stain conditioner, let it soak into the soft wood first - it stains much easier and even then.
Paint - much easier to apply but you'll lose the wood grain appearance - but that may be your intent.
A few good coats of polyurathane applied over either stain or paint with a "good" 100% bristle brush, and some light sanding with 200+ grit sandpaper, in between dried coats, will give you a decent water barrier - water will bead up and can be wiped up after spills, and keep your canopy/stand finish protected.
I'm beginning to sound like Homer Formby :p
 

melbournefl

Member
Hey Broomer a.k.a. Homer, I chose a laquer finish rather then poly because laquer can be "repaired" if you get a small ding and poly really doesn't like "touch ups." Laquer is a bit harder to work with though and really doesn't brush well, spraying is prefered. Just my .02.
Later,
Paul
Oh yeah, you're 100% right on the money about using a wood conditioner before staining pine :D
 

broomer5

Active Member
Yep MelbourneFL,
Laquer finish is hard to beat - but I've seen many a botch job if the one applying it doesn't know what they're doing.
Poly is a little more forgiving - but can still be booger'd up pretty bad LOL
The key seems to be applying several light coats and sanding - as compared to one or two heavy coats so many seem to do.
Cutting corners normally looks like it - I know this first hand :D
 

melbournefl

Member
Indeed, indeed Broomer! There is no *fast* way to do nice finish work. I finally got the laquer look I was after but it took two complete strippings of botched jobs :mad: I finally gave up on the brush and a friend drove up from Vero Beach with his spray equipment (don't bother trying with a "wagner" or other cheap model) and we spent a full day giving the tank 6 coats of satin finish laquer, then the next day I gave it another 4 coats of furniture wax. I must say though, no modesty here, the tank finish is perfect (oh okay, two flaws but only I can see them LOL)!
Pics someday on the website, right now too busy building the stand to work on it though.
Later,
Paul
 

dave flood

Member
Spar or marine varnish is best. Laquer is great looking but not as durable or uv protection,it all darkens with age(water born not as much). It's best to clean right away.Laquer dissolves previous coat with each coat,usually3 coats work best.
 
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