What's the Best (safest) Way to Treat Ick ?

derwood

Member
Beginner marine hobbiest. Have treated freshwater for ick with good success but hesitant to do it in the marine environment.
I have only 3 perc clowns and some live rock. All the percs have ick (one severely stressed). What is the best way to rid my tank of it before I add more stock?
Is it safe to treat the entire tank (I have live rock)? I have heard that if I QT the sick fish and treat them that I will need to keep them out of the tank for 30+ days in order for the ick to die off naturally (by cycle), is that true? In that case it seems like it would be just easier to treat the fish and restart the tank with all new water & a clean out. Recommendations?
Water conditions test within limits (1.023, trace NH3 & NO2) but PH is a little low (7.8-7.9)
Thanks,
Derwood
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
The best way to treat is hyposalinity. However, live rock can't be placed in hyposaline conditions. If all you have is LR and no inverts, you can take the LR out and keep it in a separate area, ruppermaid with circulation, and then treat the fish in the tank.
 

flamehawk

Active Member
I'm not an expert like Beth and Terry and I certainly value their opinions but hypo is not for all fish. In your case, clowns s/b fine. Good luck.
 

derwood

Member
Okay. I searched for details on hyposalinity but was only able to deduce that I am to bring down the SG to 1.009. Does that need to be done gradually?
and what about the PH? I read elsewhere that it may fall and that it needs to remain in the 8+ range (normal). I have had a hard time keeping it there.
Lastly, how long does this usually take? And, even though I am using new water to house my LR for now... won't I just reintroduce the the ick (via the LR) once I put it back in my tank?
 

timsedwards

Active Member
No Ick tend to stay either on the substrate or on the fish, so it shouldnt stay on the LR, unless I am mistaken and Beth will correct me! :D
Hypo is by far the best method, the best thing to do for future reference is to set up a QT (very cheap) and then when introducing new fish, QT them and this will stop parasites coming in at least. Also a QT would mean you could put them in there now for this disease and it would cure it.
I have used reef safe medications and they worked for me, but I do know that hypo is far better and successful.
All the best,
Tim.
 

unsalted

Member
Do all of the fish need to come out of the tank, or just the one with signs of ich. My tang has it BAD BAD BAD, I have been battling for 3 weeks trying Kick Ich, but it has only worsened. The other fish show no signs, and have not the whole time.
 

beth

Administrator
Staff member
Below are the procedures for hypo. All fish exposed to ich must be treated whether they are showing symptoms or not. Ich may be deposited on LR or sand, but they will not live there indefinately. In the absense of a fish host, ich will die off within 3-4 wks.
Ich Info and Hypo Proceedure:
Ick has a life cycle of approx. 23 days during which time the parasite undergoes 3 stages. In the tomite [free-swimming] stage [no, you can not see it with the ----- eye], the parasite is infectious to fish. During this stage, the tomite's goal is to find a host fish, or die trying. After they attach to the gills or body of a fish, they develop into the second stage, the parasitic trophont. During this stage they burrow into the fish, feeding on it's tissues, which can cause considerable damage and even result in a secondary bacterial infection on the infected fish. This stage is the only time that you can actually see the parasites [on the fish]. Once well fed the trophonts stop feeding and develop cystic coverings. This becomes the inactive tomont stage and during this final stage the cysts may stay trapped in the tissues of the fish, or fall off and sit on the bottom of the aquarium or on rocks, etc. Within 6 to 10 days hundreds of new tomites emerge looking for fish hosts and the cycle begins all over again, and again and again until something is done about it. Once ick is an active presence in the aquaria, having infested fish, it must be irradiated or it will always pose a threat to fish, and to any new fish introduced. The only time this parasite is vulnerable is during their free swimming stage. Only in the free-swimming stage is any kind of treatments effective.
Hyposalinity is Osmotic Shock Therapy [OST]. No, your fish aren't subjected to the shock, but ick parasites are. Essentially, O.S.T. simply places the infectors [ich] in an environment in which they cannot survive while the host, (or infected fish) can. This remedy WILL NOT work in reef systems or invert tanks as it incorporates lowering the salinity of the entire system to 1.009 SG---this SG/salinity being too low for inverts, LR or LS.
The method of lowering salinity/SG is simple: Over the course of 48-hrs, salt water in the tank is replaced with fresh RO or DI water in small increments until a SG of 1.009 is achieved. Maintain pH, as pH tends to lower in hypo-saline water, and you need to maintain same pH. Watch for pH, especially at night. If you are not using a refractometer which gives the most precise readings, then try using 2-brands of quality hydrometers to make sure that you get an accurate reading. The SG MUST be dropped to 1.009, nothing above that will do. As for the beneficial microbes you are working to establish in your hospital, NOT TO WORRY! The bacteria colony will survive, the fish will be more than fine; but the Ich will not survive. By lowering the salinity, you will also be lowering the osmotic pressure of the water. The parasites NEED high osmotic pressure to convert saline water into freshwater. All marine animals need freshwater as we do [parasites are considered marine animals as well, BTW]. They just convert it differently, usually via their tissues. Reduce this necessary pressure and the ich will die. As a higher life form, the fish will do fine with this treatment. [My preference for this treatment of ick over copper is toxicity. Hypo has no ill effects on fish during or after treatment, whereas copper is a toxin, and could have enduring negative effects on fish even following a successful treatment.
Maintain the 1.009 SG in the tank for 3 wks AFTER no visible signs of ick are present with your fish. After that time, you can slowly, over the course of several days, raise the SG back to normal levels in the hospital. Take longer raising then you did lowering the SG. Leave the fish in the hospital for 4-5 days after returning the SG to normal levels before moving them back home.
In the meantime, feed your fish garlic soaked food several times a week, and, if you can get either Zoe or Zoecon, alternate feeding your fish with these excellent vitamin supplements. No need to feed with vits and the garlic at same time. MORE is not better either with fish meds, additives or supplements. Garlic is a natural parasite repellent for ick. It also has mild antibiotic qualities as well as being an immune booster. No, don't add tabs to water. use fresh crushed garlic or garlic extract to soak the food--don't add the garlic to the water!
In the absence of any fish in your main tank, the ick will die off there. Ick must have a host fish to survive. So don't add new fish to your main tank while you're treating your sick fish
 

timsedwards

Active Member
lol i am sitting here with msn messenger on whilst studying for my exams and for some reason i forgot to untick the email notification :D
Thanks again,
Tim.
 

timsedwards

Active Member
just 2 quick questions;
Do i put the fish in there whilst the salinity is being lowered, before or when it is at 1.009?
Can it go lower than 1.009 or is this detrimental to the fish?
How can i maintain pH? I can monitor it sure, but how do i maintain it?
OK that was 3 questions :p
Thanks,
Tim.
 

timsedwards

Active Member
ok thanks leigh, if beth or terry coiuld verify that would be great and i could do it this evening.
All the best,
Tim.
 

timsedwards

Active Member
HI Guys,
Well I monitored my pH last night on the QT and it is in a dark room with no or little light and I forgot :)rolleyes: ) to put the light on yesterday, and the pH was still 8.2 so hopefully i wont encounter many problems, but i have buffer and test standing by :D
I put the clown in ther last night (man that was hard work catching him!) and I will begin to lower the salinity today.
Im using a high quality glass hydrometer, as i explained to beth you cant get refractometers over here in UK and they are very expensive! However when I win the lottery (or at least get a nice pay check) I will get one in from the states.
Thanks for the help,
Tim.
 
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