Will a tank for each work together???

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smt91278

Guest
after careful measurements i have found out i cannot use one single large tank for a sump/fuge. Stupid me setup my tank, filled it, and cycled it before i finally decided to do a sump/fuge.
the only way a bigger tank would fit in my stand is from the back. im not about to empty my tank and start all over, so im reduced to two smaller tanks, one for each a sump and refugium. about the only thing that will fit in my DIY tank stand is two 10-14 gallon tanks. I have a 90 gallon setup, by the way.
if i use 2 seperate tanks to do this, will it be an efficient, and effective way to filter my DT?
would it be better to run a pump for sump to refuge? or keep the two seperate? is it really pointless to use 2 seperate tanks at all for filtration?
 
sly

sly

Active Member
I use 2 tanks and they work very well. You don't really need to pump water from your sump to the fuge... I put a Tee fitting on my water line running from the tank and then controlled the flow to the fuge with a ball valve. What doesn't go to the fuge, goes to the sump.
I connected the fuge to the sump with a U-tube siphon hose. You can use an aqua lifter water pump to keep the siphon primed. I have never had a siphon problem since I started using the aqua lifter.
 
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smt91278

Guest
Originally Posted by Sly
http:///forum/post/2790259
I use 2 tanks and they work very well. You don't really need to pump water from your sump to the fuge... I put a Tee fitting on my water line running from the tank and then controlled the flow to the fuge with a ball valve. What doesn't go to the fuge, goes to the sump.
I connected the fuge to the sump with a U-tube siphon hose. You can use an aqua lifter water pump to keep the siphon primed. I have never had a siphon problem since I started using the aqua lifter.

hey sly,
thanks for the help....by the way, you wouldn't happen to live in Johnson city or jefferson city, TN would you. saw we lived in the same state so i thought id ask.
 
S

smt91278

Guest
Originally Posted by Sly
http:///forum/post/2790259
I use 2 tanks and they work very well. You don't really need to pump water from your sump to the fuge... I put a Tee fitting on my water line running from the tank and then controlled the flow to the fuge with a ball valve. What doesn't go to the fuge, goes to the sump.
I connected the fuge to the sump with a U-tube siphon hose. You can use an aqua lifter water pump to keep the siphon primed. I have never had a siphon problem since I started using the aqua lifter.

how close together do you have your 2 tanks? the u-tube seems like a cheaper solution rather than a pump, but the space between my tanks might be a problem. i have a brace right down the middle of my stand for support, so my 2 tanks won't be butted up against each other.
 
mindcage133

mindcage133

New Member
I'm down in Sevierville, Wanna come help me move a 180?! hehe!
You could do a quick drain in to something temporary and move what you really want into the stand, The whole process should take less than an hour.
Derrick
 
sly

sly

Active Member
Originally Posted by smt91278 http:///forum/post/2790439
how close together do you have your 2 tanks? the u-tube seems like a cheaper solution rather than a pump, but the space between my tanks might be a problem. i have a brace right down the middle of my stand for support, so my 2 tanks won't be butted up against each other.
They can be pretty far apart... It doesn't really matter just as long as you can keep a siphon running. Here's a thread I made a while back which describes how to make one: https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/243146/u-tube-siphon-joining-two-tanks-together
All you need for it to be completely reliable is to attach an aqua lifter pump to the airline, not using the golf tee and that will keep the siphon permanently primed.
 
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smt91278

Guest
Originally Posted by Mindcage133
http:///forum/post/2791198
I'm down in Sevierville, Wanna come help me move a 180?! hehe!
You could do a quick drain in to something temporary and move what you really want into the stand, The whole process should take less than an hour.
Derrick
Good luck on the 180 move. i moved myself. accross the living room...hehe. your temporary drain idea i a good one. i think ill just improvise and split the one tank into two...thank you though...
 
S

smt91278

Guest
here are the pics of my stand. im certainly open to suggestions. the more advise i get and the more threads i read, the more reluctant i am to setup my sump and fuge with these two tanks.

 
wattsupdoc

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Like I said, it'll work it's just going to be tight. I have done similar with a 10 and a 20 on a 55. The ten is just so thin to drill. However, let me play around with it a little. I'll get you a drawing soon.
Your sure there's no way to get a larger tank in there? I don't see any center brace, if you mean the divider between the doors, there may be a way around that.
 
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smt91278

Guest
ive got an 18 gallon rubbermaid tub that will fit in the stand. along with the 14 gallon it will give alittle extra water volume. i was thinking of cutting out the fuge all together and just using the tub and 14gal both as sumps. one running to the other of course.
im guessing with enough LR and a good skimmer, there isn't really a need for a fuge that small anyway. plus, using the tub gives me added demensions i need for skimmer i really want ( msx200).
the only thing with the tub is, i imagine it will be tough to put baffles in it. i may not need them, as long as i put a few in the 14 gal glass tank, so help with micro-bubbles.
let me know what ya think.
 
S

smt91278

Guest
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2793861
Like I said, it'll work it's just going to be tight. I have done similar with a 10 and a 20 on a 55. The ten is just so thin to drill. However, let me play around with it a little. I'll get you a drawing soon.
Your sure there's no way to get a larger tank in there? I don't see any center brace, if you mean the divider between the doors, there may be a way around that.
ok ok....im all ears on how to get around the center divider between the doors.
the only way i can see to get around them is to cut it out. thats not an option. like a dummy i filled my DT before i installed my sump through the back.
i know, i know....this hobby is not for the impatient. at the time, i didn't think i was going for the whole sump thing.
 
wattsupdoc

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Cut the divider out, theres no structural reason why you cant. Replace it when your done. Get a 29 gallon and you'll be all good to go.
 
sly

sly

Active Member
Originally Posted by wattsupdoc
http:///forum/post/2793949
What I got so far, I'll get the measurements tomorrow.

Here is where you should place the tanks and where the corresponding water level will be with the tank running...
I see no problem with using 2 tanks. I've used 2 for years. There's no need to drill them if you just use a U-tube and an aqualifter...
One thing about your diagram. It won't work as drawn. When you hook two tanks together with the siphon tube they will remain at the same water level. So there is no need to elevate the first tank. As that tank fills, it will naturally form a siphon and go into the other tank. So both tanks will always have the same level.
All you need to do is place the two tanks side by side and then hook up the siphon tube. It will start to flow as soon as you turn your pump on. The point of the aqualifter is to always keep the siphon primed. Over time micro bubbles can form on the top inside the tube and can weaken the siphon, causing one tanks water level to be higher than the other. Adding the aqualifter makes it completely maintenance free.
One other thing: I would NOT modify your stand with it supporting a tank full of water. That center brace helps keep the stand from bowing in the middle from all the weight. If you were to try to modify your stand with almost 1,000 pounds of water on it you face a real risk of destroying your tank and hurting yourself or worse... IF having only one tank for a sump is that important to you then I would just go get a couple of clean plastic trashcans and then drain it out until it's light enough to move. You can always pump the water back into the tank when you are done.
 
wattsupdoc

wattsupdoc

Active Member
Originally Posted by Sly
http:///forum/post/2795863

Here is where you should place the tanks and where the corresponding water level will be with the tank running...
I see no problem with using 2 tanks. I've used 2 for years. There's no need to drill them if you just use a U-tube and an aqualifter...
One thing about your diagram. It won't work as drawn. When you hook two tanks together with the siphon tube they will remain at the same water level. So there is no need to elevate the first tank. As that tank fills, it will naturally form a siphon and go into the other tank. So both tanks will always have the same level.
All you need to do is place the two tanks side by side and then hook up the siphon tube. It will start to flow as soon as you turn your pump on. The point of the aqualifter is to always keep the siphon primed. Over time micro bubbles can form on the top inside the tube and can weaken the siphon, causing one tanks water level to be higher than the other. Adding the aqualifter makes it completely maintenance free.
One other thing: I would NOT modify your stand with it supporting a tank full of water. That center brace helps keep the stand from bowing in the middle from all the weight. If you were to try to modify your stand with almost 1,000 pounds of water on it you face a real risk of destroying your tank and hurting yourself or worse... IF having only one tank for a sump is that important to you then I would just go get a couple of clean plastic trashcans and then drain it out until it's light enough to move. You can always pump the water back into the tank when you are done.
The line in the bottom of the pipe was shown that way for simplicity in the drawing.
The drawing is only a rough sketch, AND THEY WILL NEED TO BE LEVEL WITH EACH OTHER<THIS IS BECAUSE HIS BACKWASH IS SOO MUCH IN COMPARISON TO ONLY USING A 10 AND A 13 GALLON TANKS.
Of course the water will be level. The center brace can be removed and replaced, you can temproaroly brace it if it makes you feel comfortable. I done this on other tanks before and had no issues. Even ran them without a center brace for extended periods of time.
 
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smt91278

Guest
Easy you guys. I appreciate the imput of everyone on the forum. Somewhere in this thread i think the major details have been lost. Other details are unclear.
My stand is homemade. the framework of my stand is purely 2x6's. The stand its on 2x8's, screwed to the bottowm with 4" screws. The tabletop of my stand is made of 2x8's. All the framework is wraped with 1/4" plywood. I don't think my stand is going to fall apart. In order for me to fit at bigger tank through the front of the stand would be to cut the plywood divider between the two doors. Im not going to do that. If i had to go with a bigger tank, i guess i could drain my DT into garbage cans and move the stand away from the wall.
My intial in-stand setup was a sump (14gal) and a fuge (10gal). After the feedback i've gotten (very helpful), I've decided to sh-t can the fuge idea, and just use a sump for added water volume and for equipment storage. After some skimmer research, i discovered the msx200 wouldn't fit in either a 10 gal or a 14 gal sump. The msx200's footprint is 11.5" x 13.5" and needs atleast 8" of submersable water.
With all that being said, i'm back to square one with the in-tank sump design. I have decided to go strickly with a sump, no fuge. I keep hearing people say "use a 29 gal, use a 29 gal." I have demensions of
33" x 18" x 18" if i slide the sump tank in the stand, from the back. It looks like it will be a 29 gal after all. the more think about it, the more it looks like i'll be draining my tank and stuffing a 29 gal in from the back of the stand.
 
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