magic mark
Member
thanks for any insight :joy:
will this fuge plan work?
- Thread starter magic mark
- Start date
magic mark
Member
what problems might i run into?
magic mark
Member
i thought that i would have to regulate the water flow going up to the tank to make sure it matches the flow from the siphon going down.
is it not needed?
is it not needed?
footbag
Active Member
The first valve (going to fuge) will regulate the water flow. The overflow in the fuge will return the same amount of water as is pumped in. Thats what overflows do along with keeping the water level constant.
If you had a ball valve it would only increase your chance of a flood. Some people have used a ball valve to add back pressure to regulate noise, but sometimes the pressure builds up a little too long and causes a backup. Then your refugium might begin overflowing.
That was the only problem I saw, the above-tank refugiums are the best way to go. More pods survive the trip down the overflow tube then up a return line. WWWWWWWWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
:hilarious
If you had a ball valve it would only increase your chance of a flood. Some people have used a ball valve to add back pressure to regulate noise, but sometimes the pressure builds up a little too long and causes a backup. Then your refugium might begin overflowing.
That was the only problem I saw, the above-tank refugiums are the best way to go. More pods survive the trip down the overflow tube then up a return line. WWWWWWWWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
:hilarious
magic mark
Member
except....i dont have an overflow (do i need one? can i make one?)
magic mark
Member
it's glass.
i thought that if i had a siphon break then it wouldnt flood in case of power outage
i thought that if i had a siphon break then it wouldnt flood in case of power outage
magic mark
Member
would something like this benefit me?
i really dont understand how an overflow works
i really dont understand how an overflow works
magic mark
Member
whoops
sry for showing the website, but img tags dont work
http://www.aquadirect.com/store/image.php?productid=358
sry for showing the website, but img tags dont work
http://www.aquadirect.com/store/image.php?productid=358
footbag
Active Member
There are no good LFS's here. I have one local who sells soft corals and LPS. His tanks are currently getting clobbered by hair algae because he just moved. There is a place in philly that has a good reputation but I vannot remember the name.
I don't think they have walk ins, but aren't Blane Peruns Coral farms out your way?
I don't think they have walk ins, but aren't Blane Peruns Coral farms out your way?
sly
Active Member
Fill your main tank partially. If the water from your fuge were to drain into the tank then at that level your tank should just be filled if the power goes out.
Instead of relying on a siphon to return water to the tank, drill a hole a few inches from the top part of the side of the fuge. Then attach your return line to this. This way water fills the fuge then when it gets to the level of the hole it simply spills into the tube, straight down into the tank, bypassing any siphon effect.
Get rid of the ball valve on the power head line. Instead, put the output of the line that pours into the fuge above the fuge and let it pour in from the top. Don't let the line stick down into the water or you will have a siphon if the power goes out. If you put an air gap between the output and the fuge water level, then you will not have a siphon problem, so you will not need a ball valve there also.
[edit] If the power goes out then the water in the fuge will drain down just to the level of the return line then stop. Only fill your main tank to the level that this additional water from the fuge will not overfill your tank.
Instead of relying on a siphon to return water to the tank, drill a hole a few inches from the top part of the side of the fuge. Then attach your return line to this. This way water fills the fuge then when it gets to the level of the hole it simply spills into the tube, straight down into the tank, bypassing any siphon effect.
Get rid of the ball valve on the power head line. Instead, put the output of the line that pours into the fuge above the fuge and let it pour in from the top. Don't let the line stick down into the water or you will have a siphon if the power goes out. If you put an air gap between the output and the fuge water level, then you will not have a siphon problem, so you will not need a ball valve there also.
[edit] If the power goes out then the water in the fuge will drain down just to the level of the return line then stop. Only fill your main tank to the level that this additional water from the fuge will not overfill your tank.
sly
Active Member
You can put your output line from the powerhead down into the water if you don't want any noise. Put it so that the opening is just to the level of where the water would be if the power went out and the water drained down to the opening of your return. At this level the water should be low enough to create an air gap to the opening of your powerhead line and keep it from siphoning.