dragonborn
Member
My friend wants to get me a seahorse and I want to know ifiit'll eat frozen foods like brine
can seahorses eat frozen food
- Thread starter dragonborn
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silverado61
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dragonborn
Member
My parameters in my 75 gallon is good and I think he'll like the wavemaker
silverado61
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dragonborn
Member
I may put it in my 55 gallon but the I'm afraid that the puffer will do something, even if he hasn't done anything to fish. The ammonia is a little high but I'm working on it
dragonborn
Member
I am going to try to convince my friend to not get it, but if I do I'll have to put it in my 75 gallon tank and I'll put things it can cling on and try to get it to eat frozen foods
dragonborn
Member
My tanks are both around 75-80° degrees farenheit
silverado61
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geridoc
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That's too warm. They do best in a species only tank since they eat very slowly, and won't be able to compete for food.
silverado61
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gemmy
Active Member
This is not true. The temperature requirements of seahorses varies from species to species. The temperature for seahorses should be below 75. I run my tank for my h. erectus at 72.
This is a myth. Seahorses do like some flow. It is best to have some areas with flow and some with low flow. I run open ended air line tubing and the seahorses love playing in the bubbles. I also have a canister filter and the seahorses love to ride the flow coming out of it. I also have a seahorse protected powerhead that they will ride the flow of.
Puffers and seahorses do not make good tank mates. I would focus on getting that ammonia to zero before adding anything.
This is another myth. There are several fish that do better in cooler tanks. There are also several fish and corals that could easily be transitioned to the cooler tank, It is all in the acclimation.
Seahorses could easily succumb to vibrio in tanks that warm. Vibrio will multiply much quicker in warmer water than in cooler water.
Myth. See above.
This is another myth. You have to be careful with the choice of additions. Aggressive eaters should be avoided. However, there are several types of fish that would be great!
I do agree with this, but want to elaborate. Seahorses are poor swimmers and are scaleless fish. This means that they can be preyed upon very easily. Care needs to be taken with adding anything to the tank.
Brine is a horrible food. Most captive bred seahorses should be readily eating mysis.
silverado61
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flower
Well-Known Member
High Holidays and I have a moment before I'm off to the synagogue.
Gemmy knows what is needed to get started. Most important, get captive bred seahorses, they feed ONLY on frozen Mysis shrimp. They are as easy to care for as any SW fish, however just like all the other SW fish we add to our tank, you have to be careful what can live in the tank with them. Check out "seahorse source" they have a butt load of seahorse information, including a nice list of companion fish.
Gemmy knows what is needed to get started. Most important, get captive bred seahorses, they feed ONLY on frozen Mysis shrimp. They are as easy to care for as any SW fish, however just like all the other SW fish we add to our tank, you have to be careful what can live in the tank with them. Check out "seahorse source" they have a butt load of seahorse information, including a nice list of companion fish.
dragonborn
Member
The only aggressive eater is the tang but he won't fight for it, he'll just go loco. I sometimes forget about how mysis is better, my bad. I still don't know the specific temperature of the tank because I only have a used strip thermometer
flower
Well-Known Member
Hi,
My fish wouldn't even eat baby seahorses, they got them in their mouth and spit them back out...(I wasn't going to keep the fry, so I fed them to the tank with regular fish, thinking free fish food, but they wouldn't eat them) The problem isn't aggression, it's the fact that they eat so slow, that more aggressive eaters...especially tangs, gobble up the food before they have a chance. It takes regular fish about 2 minutes to eat, it takes a seahorse 30 minutes. A seahorse will eye the food as it floats by, then look at it real hard, THEN snick it up. By the time a seahorse eyes the food, a tang will have eaten it right in front of him. That going loco as you call it, will make a shy seahorse cling to the nearest rock or anything else it can hitch to, and freeze like a statue (their natural defense) as they hope to not be noticed. So the horses will starve, and it only takes a few days since their digestive systems are very simple, they don't hold food in their tummies.
I turn off all of the filter pumps when I feed my horses because they are so slow to eat, that the filters eat more then they do.
A strip thermometer is fine for telling you what temperature the tank is. Watch it for a few weeks and record it each day, to see if you even really need a chiller. My bedroom where I keep the 56g Kuda horse tank is so cool, that I really don't need a chiller on the tank. The room stays at 72 degrees, and so does the tank for the most part. The 90g Potbelly horse tank in the living room, needs much cooler temps, since pots need the temp at 60 to 67 degrees. That chiller works itself to death.
It's best to set up a tank for seahorses from the get go, I used live rock in the kuda tank, and Kuda seahorses are such slow messy eaters, that the bristle worm population has gone crazy. Lesson learned...now I recommend setting up the tank with DRY aragonite sand, base rock, and then use Caulerpa Prolifera macroalgae for hitches. Flow isn't a problem for my horses either, like gemmy, I use an air line (no stone) and any power heads are purchased with seahorses in mind, that means the Koralia types are out, because the horses can hitch to them, and get their tails caught in the blades. I have used Seiko brand PH's without a worry.
dragonborn
Member
I can't afford another tank, I think I would put it in the 55 gallon after I get rid of the damsel and lower the ammonia. The owners ofthe lfs are offering me some things to start a culture of "live foods " for six dollars, I think I'll take that which I think is better for them.