Smaller place, bigger tank...My 200DD build

eric b 125

eric b 125

Active Member
I'm going to have to re-do the plumbing. I don't want to risk having horizontal runs (short as they may be) with a BeanAnimal. Not thrilled about it, but let's do it right, right? With the limited space I have I'm probably looking at 45*s and 22.5*s...oof
 
eric b 125

eric b 125

Active Member
Re-did the left overflow plumbing this morning.





Still needs a few finishing touches but I needed to get some homework done before heading into work. I wasn't able to eliminate all of the horizontals but hopefully got rid of enough to make it work properly. Will be working on the right overflow tonight. Still shooting for a FW test this weekend but I have a few projects for school that need my attention first.
 
siptang

siptang

Member
All the plumbing work looks great. I'm sure you already have this already thought out but be sure that they are submerged or have some measures for the water sound. Much easier to do things without water in them lol. Yessir. I missed the old swf.
 
eric b 125

eric b 125

Active Member
siptang said:
All the plumbing work looks great. I'm sure you already have this already thought out but be sure that they are submerged or have some measures for the water sound. Much easier to do things without water in them lol. Yessir. I missed the old swf.
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Thanks! Unfortunately, I was playing around with my plans and they are going to have to change. I moved the sump to the back of the stand so there is a direct drop from the overflows.



The front right opening will pretty much be gone. I'm going to build a box that will sit above the reservoir tank for the electrical switches. The front left will be open to access the fuge with some finesse.



My calcium reactor and phosban reactor fit perfectly on the right side of the stand; right next to the return pump chamber so they'll be close to the manifold and the CO2 bottle will sit right outside of the stand.

 
eric b 125

eric b 125

Active Member
LOL. I'm not very handy. I'm really hoping that I can find some threaded bulkheads at one of the LFS's today. This build is already taking long enough without having to wait for another mail order. I have the slip x slip bulkheads that came with the tank and thought I'd be okay with them, but I can't stand the idea of not being able to remove the plumbing if I need to fix something.
 
eric b 125

eric b 125

Active Member
None of my 3 non-chain LFS's had threaded bulkheads that were threaded on both sides, so I ordered 5 from BRS (just in case I break one). Went to Home Depot to get lumber for the electrical box and found a real nice piece of poplar for $5.60. Had them cut it there and when I was checking out the lady at the register explained to me that it was $5.60/ft. :mad: Nice and straight wood though. Got some other hardware for the box and started assembly. Pics tomorrow.
 
trigger40

trigger40

Well-Known Member
eric b 125 said:
None of my 3 non-chain LFS's had threaded bulkheads that were threaded on both sides, so I ordered 5 from BRS (just in case I break one). Went to Home Depot to get lumber for the electrical box and found a real nice piece of poplar for $5.60. Had them cut it there and when I was checking out the lady at the register explained to me that it was $5.60/ft. :mad: Nice and straight wood though. Got some other hardware for the box and started assembly. Pics tomorrow.
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im curious to how this box thing will look after its done.
 
eric b 125

eric b 125

Active Member
trigger40 said:
im curious to how this box thing will look after its done.
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Not as good as it could, I'm afraid...

siptang said:
Holy crap... 5.60 a ft.. whew. ..
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Tell me about it.

This is as far as I got today. The right side of the box was cut about 1/4" too short, but I didn't notice until it was too late. It won't be visible or anything, and it's not going to be a structural part of the box, so it doesn't much matter. In the pics you can see a small gap b/w the tank trim and the right side. I might try and get some wood filler but part of me is saying, "leave well enough alone".







^I designed the right side of the box that way so if I need to remove the box from the stand for any reason I just have to push it back an inch or so and slide it to the left side of the stand. Having a full side, like the left side, would not have allowed me to remove the box since the sump is so close.
 
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eric b 125

eric b 125

Active Member
Today, I put some insert nuts in 1x2" maple. These will be used to mount the DJ power strips. I used the insert nuts so that I can take out the strips and put them back in as many times as I need without compromising the integrity of the wood. I'm not sure how well they will stand up to the humidity in the cabinet so I might have to switch them out at some point. I'm aiming at "modular" for this build. They're not as straight as they could be, but all the holes line up with the strips and that's what's important. Not too bad for a guy with a limited skill set and even fewer tools, lol.



Right now I'm gluing the right one to a spacer. Hoping to glue them into the box before I have to leave for work.
 
trigger40

trigger40

Well-Known Member
the box doesnt look that bad... it will be in the stand anyway so it doesnt matter. as long as it gets the job done!
 
eric b 125

eric b 125

Active Member
trigger40 said:
the box doesnt look that bad... it will be in the stand anyway so it doesnt matter. as long as it gets the job done!
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The only part that bothers me is the little gap, the rest of it turned out exactly how I wanted it to. Like you said though, no one is going to see it. I'm glad that I got it (mostly done). Over the next few days I'm going to spray it with Kilz and then some flat black. One question: do I use oil based Kilz or water based?

I got the John Guest fitting for the open channel overflow in the mail yesterday. I'm going to have to make it out to Grainger soon to get the threaded hose barb adapters for the return and manifold. I can't very well do a leak test without running a return pump, lol.

Not much more to do before getting wet!
 
eric b 125

eric b 125

Active Member
As you can see, one of the strips is missing a switch. I'm afraid they got pretty beat up during the move. I highly doubt I'll need all 24 switches, so replacing the strips isn't high on my list of priorities, but I know it will bug the hell out of me so I will be getting 3 new switch sets at some point.

I'm also going to add a piece of filler wood to conceal the gap b/w the top set of switches and the top of the box.
 
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