New tank is up and running

aduvall

Member
I may be totally wrong (please correct me if I am fellas) (or ladies) but if it is not already live rock, then you want to ease in fish do te bio load doesn't go through the roof... Correct?


Stern, was the ammonia less?

Also have you had any sort of bloom with brown algea?
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Ok guys thanks again, I took them a sample of the water today, the only difference on the color chart was the ammonia, my water was actually perfect compared to the (saltwater) chart, didn't need to do a water changes, I will look for the other Master kit, the current rocks are all dead which will eventually turn live, the live sand I used was fast cycle live sand.
Hi,

Get a SALTWATER master test kit. If it's too much bother to listen to our advice, why ask for it? Is there a difference you asked...and our answer is a huge YES, use SALTWATER kits not freshwater kits.

Just in case you care to know.... Dead rock will not become "LIVE" rock unless you seed it with live rock. All surfaces will get good bacteria colonies on them, even the plastic of the power heads and any foam filter media...that is not what makes live rock..."LIVE"

There are tiny living critters in and on the rock, the little critters are part of the cleaning crew that keeps the tank balanced by feeding on the waste created by the fish and algae in your tank.

If you did a 15g water change, there would be no ammonia reading because you have it under control by doing a water change as instructed. Also I want to explain: There is no such thing as fast cycle live sand...that is an illusion. You put bacteria loaded sand in your tank, it helps, but it will not make the cycle faster. The ONLY truly "live" sand, is reef sand, it has critters in it, not just bacteria.

Aduvall, The API nitrate kits read higher, GeriDoc can explain the tech stuff... I used API kits, I was doing water changes like crazy, and even changed my filtration trying to get them under control...all the while, nothing was wrong.

So now for the sake of my sanity...I'm done. I tell you the fish store is bad...you keep going to them, you insist you know that freshwater kits are just as good..fine, it's your tank. I have only been keeping fish for over 30 years, what do I know.....
 

aduvall

Member
Flower I asked because I'm using an API right now and my nitrates look much higher than I expected after doing 2 water changes using RO water.
 

honu808

Member
API tests will usually show high niTrates even if there are none present.
Live sand will help bring beneficial live bacteria to a tank but is NOT a "quick" cycle. A tank needs a month or so to build up good bacteria BEFORE fish are added. If not, the waste produced from fish poop and excess food will be to much of a bio load for the good bacteria to handle.
Dry rock will eventually become live rock IF seeded with older live rock.
Smaller tanks are harder to handle and to keep in check just due to smaller water volume. More water= less concentration of unwanted bad chemicals.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
Flower I asked because I'm using an API right now and my nitrates look much higher than I expected after doing 2 water changes using RO water.
That's what happened to me, and I even purchased a new master kit, thinking mine was old...but it read high (OVER 80, the highest reading) I would do a 30g water change, and all would be pretty good, but by next morning the kit read 80+ again. I did daily water changes for over a month, and every morning, 80+. I was told my canister filters were nitrate factories, so I went with a sump system, and still 80+. I Finally changed to Seachem kits because they come with a regent to double check the results...my nitrates were 1. I never had nitrate problems, and haven't since. The API kits read high on them...Geridoc said 4Xs higher, if they have that test reading high, I won't use any of them....I switched brands.

Only if the sand comes with pods, worms and other little creatures.
LOL...AKA...Reef sand.
 

stern

Member
Flowers I never insisted the kit was just as good, I only went back to to let them know you gave me the wrong kit and had them check my water! That would be the most logical thing to do, to let them know they screwed up, Trust me I really appreciate your's and everyone else help here, I will be looking for a new LFS for my new fish, thanks again bro, didn't mean to get you upset! I hope your not "done" with me, its all a learning curve for me.
Hi,

Get a SALTWATER master test kit. If it's too much bother to listen to our advice, why ask for it? Is there a difference you asked...and our answer is a huge YES, use SALTWATER kits not freshwater kits.

Just in case you care to know.... Dead rock will not become "LIVE" rock unless you seed it with live rock. All surfaces will get good bacteria colonies on them, even the plastic of the power heads and any foam filter media...that is not what makes live rock..."LIVE"

There are tiny living critters in and on the rock, the little critters are part of the cleaning crew that keeps the tank balanced by feeding on the waste created by the fish and algae in your tank.

If you did a 15g water change, there would be no ammonia reading because you have it under control by doing a water change as instructed. Also I want to explain: There is no such thing as fast cycle live sand...that is an illusion. You put bacteria loaded sand in your tank, it helps, but it will not make the cycle faster. The ONLY truly "live" sand, is reef sand, it has critters in it, not just bacteria.

Aduvall, The API nitrate kits read higher, GeriDoc can explain the tech stuff... I used API kits, I was doing water changes like crazy, and even changed my filtration trying to get them under control...all the while, nothing was wrong.

So now for the sake of my sanity...I'm done. I tell you the fish store is bad...you keep going to them, you insist you know that freshwater kits are just as good..fine, it's your tank. I have only been keeping fish for over 30 years, what do I know.....
 

stern

Member
Yes I know the high PH is there, I was just pointing out that I didn't do that test in the pic cause I didn't have enough tubs and so you wont compare the colors to the High PH color chart
 

deejeff0442

Active Member
Dont put cured lr in yet.there is always a little die off and you will get a small ammonia spike from it .especially since the tank isnt cycled yet.you are on track .watch the ammonia and do a 15 gallon change out if needed.i have done it plenty of times over the years.by the way is there a top on that tank? I see a firefish they like to jump
 

stern

Member
Dont put cured lr in yet.there is always a little die off and you will get a small ammonia spike from it .especially since the tank isnt cycled yet.you are on track .watch the ammonia and do a 15 gallon change out if needed.i have done it plenty of times over the years.by the way is there a top on that tank? I see a firefish they like to jump
Thanks deejeff, yes I have a cover on the tank. Thanks for the positive words and advice.
 

smfoister

Member
You're good with the cover you have. I've never seen a firefish "take aim" and jump in any specific direction. The square "egg crate" type tops are good for tanks that are prone to be a little warm. It provides a bit of "jumper security" so to speak, but probably not a good idea for the fire fish. He can jump right through those holes.
 

flower

Well-Known Member
The stock glass cover that folds. One on each side..... What u guys think about the covers I see with the open square holds in it
Hi,

Glass covers are not good for saltwater tanks...I made a mesh top for mine to keep jumpers in.
 

silverado61

Well-Known Member
Light defusing panels (egg crate) from Menards, home depot or lowes works great too. You need it open for gas exchange yet keep carpet divers in.
 

stern

Member
Just wanted to know why this post has an eyeglass icon next to it? when I put my cursor over it, it says "watched"????????? what does that mean? why is my post classified as being watched?
 
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