I'm new, tank test level questions

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
that's a good start. FWIW the shaving brush IME needs more sand and possibly more light and calcium but some of the others should get established. I like chaetomorphia for refugiums as it is brillo pad type the just expands to whatever container it is in. Caulerpa prolifera did good in lower lights but grape caulerpa did better is higher lights. Any of the hard algaes like halimeda types need reef like conditions (calcium and light).

The need for a refugium is because animals (even clean up crews) will eat the macros. What I finally did was to partition my tank with 1/4" plastic grid (egg crate) so the macros were confined to a small area and separated from the livestock. The tangs really enjoyed grazing on the macros that poked through the egg crate. Not to mention that nitrates dropped to unmeasureable in 3 week followed by phosphates a couple of months later.
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
So i'm looking for the ammonia and nitrites to hit zero? What is the normal level of Nitrates and what level do most use as a water change limit?
yes ammonia and nitrites should be unmeasurable. (IME the api ammonia kit is very hard to read at the lowest reading and I constantly got the .25ppm but things were fine.)
Every tank is different but with a balanced out tank normally nitrates would be unmeasureable with no water changes. That is actually not absolute as during "incidents" which result in ammonia bumps, the macros will actually switch to consuming ammonia for nitrogen and forgo nitrates. Hence you will be a temporary nitrate bump instead of the ammonia->nitrite type "cycle".

FWIW my old 55g ran for 9 years with no water changes and no nitrates.

my .02
 

geridoc

Well-Known Member
So i'm looking for the ammonia and nitrites to hit zero? What is the normal level of Nitrates and what level do most use as a water change limit?
Right, you want ammonia and nitrite to be zero. Acceptable nitrate levels depend on what you intend to house. For fish you don't really have to worry about nitrates - they are generally quite tolerant, and regular water changes (or macro algae, OK beaslbob?) should maintain safe levels. Water changes serve to do more than lower nitrates - they replace trace elements as they are lost, so changes should be done on a regular basis. I do monthly 25% changes because with my set up it is currently difficult to do, so I don't do them more frequently. Probably, smaller weekly changes are best, but I'm sure others will debate that (as they will everything else) since there are many pathways to a successful tank.
 

jay0705

Well-Known Member
.5 ish. Generally there not toxic unless at high levels. Ammonia is the killer. Regular water changes will keep all the above in check.Also before bob says it lol macro alage will help w these aswell
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
I don't know if i have enough room in my 10gallon for macro alge. Maybe i could do it for the 40 gallon i have planned in a few months.
You have plenty of room in a 10g. Just partition the tank with eggcrate about 1" in front of the back glass and put some chaetomorphia between the glass and egg crate. and add a light behind the tank pointing forward to keep the macros growing.
Very little space needed and it will make a huge difference in the tank.

Still that's just my .02
 
You have plenty of room in a 10g. Just partition the tank with eggcrate about 1" in front of the back glass and put some chaetomorphia between the glass and egg crate. and add a light behind the tank pointing forward to keep the macros growing.
Very little space needed and it will make a huge difference in the tank.

Still that's just my .02

Alright maybe i'll give that a shot. When should i put it in? after the cyle or is it ok to add now? And where should i get the eggrate material to use to block it off? How much hight does it need?
 

jay0705

Well-Known Member
I just put a ball in the corner of the tank. You can put it in anytime, it feeds off the nasty stuff created during the cycle.
egg crate is found at most hardware stores or home depot, ect
 

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
It would be in the department where they sell suspended ceiling tiles. Sometimes called light diffuser. Don't get the metalic one. It comes in white, maybe black, usually 2 x4 foot panels for about 10$.
 
Ok so its the stuff that can be used a laminar flow grid. I know what your talking about now. I'll have to ask around and see if i know anyone that has some extra laying around, if not i'll pick up a sheet, i need a sheet for another project anyway. If you had one macro agle , what would it be?
 

lmforbis

Well-Known Member
Chaeto morpha, if it is for water quality. Grows in a nice ball and when it gets too big just remove a chunk. It doesn't grow n the sand just floats around. Some like grape capulara are easy to grow but can get out of hand. They send out runners an spread every where.
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
Alright maybe i'll give that a shot. When should i put it in? after the cyle or is it ok to add now? And where should i get the eggrate material to use to block it off? How much hight does it need?
Egg crate is sold as lighting diffusers for dropped ceilings at home supply stores. A4'x2' section is around $12 or so.
The sooner you put it in the better. IME the back lighting really helped. on smaller tank you could just use spiral pig tail screw in fluorescent blubs designed to replace incandescent. With round clip on reflectors.
On my 4' 55g the 4' 2 tube shop lights work nicely.
my .02
 

beaslbob

Well-Known Member
Ok so its the stuff that can be used a laminar flow grid. I know what your talking about now. I'll have to ask around and see if i know anyone that has some extra laying around, if not i'll pick up a sheet, i need a sheet for another project anyway. If you had one macro agle , what would it be?
sound like ac or wind tunnel stuff. LOL
<----- degree in aerospace engineering
 
Ok. i stopped at the LFS and picked up some food. I put one pellet on the rock next to the crab. I'll see if its gone, or moved overnight/tomorrow.

I don't think my local shop has and macro algae i looked when i got the food. If i order that online that will have to be an overnight ship?
 
sound like ac or wind tunnel stuff. LOL
<----- degree in aerospace engineering
Thats cool. I don't have a degree in engineering mainly because i was HORRIBLE at math, I'm way better but i was like 10 years late on somewhat having it "click" lol, but I LOVE mechanical stuff. I'm into cars and anything with an engine. I'm into truck pulls and have built quite a few engines.. Actually the "laminar flow grid" the intake style grids used on drop ceilings are what most people use inside of their DIY flow benches for cylinder head porting.. thats my in the future project is to build my own bench.
 

geridoc

Well-Known Member
Ok. i stopped at the LFS and picked up some food. I put one pellet on the rock next to the crab. I'll see if its gone, or moved overnight/tomorrow.

I don't think my local shop has and macro algae i looked when i got the food. If i order that online that will have to be an overnight ship?
Find a local fish club and ask the members - someone will give you a handfull since they are going to throw it out anyway.
 
on the cycle log. I didn't have time yesterday to check the tank but I did this morning.

Day 4

Ammonia is under .25
Nitrite 1 doesn't match exact but it doesn't change to the redish color purple on the chart
Nitrate is between 10-20 closer to the 20 or high teens.

I wish i would have tested it yesterday to see if the nitrite would have been higher. The small pellet of food for the crab should help raise the ammonia level for a little bit of load on the tank.


side note. The crab is awol. not a clue of where the lil thing is lol
 
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