easy fish only tank

[davidwil]

Hi,
This is my first post, so let me give some background. I have been into fish tanks for 20 years. I started with fresh water, went to salt water, and finally I had a very nice reef tank for about 5 years. However I got rid of it about 5 years ago simply because I did not have the time to take care of it properly, and it began to look bad.

However I really miss having a tank, and know I could setup a freshwater tank with some algae eaters, and a good filtration that would take almost zero maintenance. However is there a way to do that with saltwater? I have never been able to keep saltwater without constant water changes, scraping algae off the glass, etc.

I would probably just setup a small 30 gal, with some fairly hearty fish (haven't decided for sure, but even just damsels are better than fresh water). I can easily setup an auto top-off, and a good filtration system, but I don't want to do water changes very often (once a year or so). And I don't want to have to clean algae.

So my question is can I treat with something like copper or something to keep the algae from growing? I have never used any form of treatment before, but I want to keep the tank looking great without cleaning every day (or even every month).

Hopefully this is possible, because I really miss my saltwater fish.

Thanks

 

[lmforbis]

I think really low maintenance salt water is possible especially fish only. I also think it will take a while to get there. My tank takes very little maintenance but it has been up and running for a year, really closer to 4 years just in a different aquarium. I planned my current system with ease of maintenance in mind. Early on, there is the ugly stage where algae and other things are every where. Water changes are necessary just to keep the trace minerals up. They don’t need to be a lot of work. My tank is 120 gal plus a 40 gallon sump an average water change takes 20 to 30 min. I drain into the bathtub (I have a siphon with a long tube. I have marks on the side of the tank to show me how much I’ve drained out. I pump the new water straight into the tank. I mix up the next batch right away so it is ready for the next water change.
I put about half an hour into the tank every week. Otherwise I just scrape the glass every few days.
I’d suggest a 75 or 90 if you want low maintenance. Maybe one that is “reef ready” with built in overflows. Makes it much easier to set up with a sump. A sump allows you much easier maintenance and better filtration yet in my opinion lower maintenance.
Keep your fish load really low. Small easy fish lik a clown or two. And maybe a couple others that are small. The more fish the more mess.

 

[jay0705]

Ro water, limit lights on, and stock the hell out of it w snails. This would help w algae. Copper doesn't seem to do much. Unlike w fw tanks

 

[lmforbis]

There is a product called Vibrant. You can buy it on amazon. It works well on algae. It isn’t an algacide though. I believe it is a bacteria that helps lower nitrates. I won’t swear to that. I used it for several months to deal with bubble algae. It worked well. It also reduces the algae on the glass. It is not a quick fix it takes a while.

 

[beaslbob]

Hi,
This is my first post, so let me give some background. I have been into fish tanks for 20 years. I started with fresh water, went to salt water, and finally I had a very nice reef tank for about 5 years. However I got rid of it about 5 years ago simply because I did not have the time to take care of it properly, and it began to look bad.

However I really miss having a tank, and know I could setup a freshwater tank with some algae eaters, and a good filtration that would take almost zero maintenance. However is there a way to do that with saltwater? I have never been able to keep saltwater without constant water changes, scraping algae off the glass, etc.

I would probably just setup a small 30 gal, with some fairly hearty fish (haven't decided for sure, but even just damsels are better than fresh water). I can easily setup an auto top-off, and a good filtration system, but I don't want to do water changes very often (once a year or so). And I don't want to have to clean algae.

So my question is can I treat with something like copper or something to keep the algae from growing? I have never used any form of treatment before, but I want to keep the tank looking great without cleaning every day (or even every month).

Hopefully this is possible, because I really miss my saltwater fish.

Thanks

Your question is very similar to my questions when I started a saltwater tank back in 2003. I had maintained FW planted tanks for years there were literally nothing but substrate, water, fish, and tank. But there was no one around who told me about the marine equivalent.

The equivalent is using algae especially macro algaes. Macro algaes are simply "organized" that look somewhat like plants.

On my old 55g I put in 1/4" square plastic grid (egg crate) use as light diffusers for dropped ceilings. about $12 for a 4'x2' panel. I just crammed it in about 3" in front of the back glass and added 2 4' utility behind the tank pointing forward to light up the area. So that area became a refugium for macro algae with the fish and rocks in front of the egg crate.

So you could do that, get the macros growing (chaeto), use play sand and landscape rocks from building supply stores, and use 6500k shop lights and have a perfectly acceptable and presentable marine fish tank.

To test it out you can also use male Mollys as dither fish to get things going. then add the more sensitive marine only fish after a few weeks.

With that inexpensive setup you could also probably buy a larger tank stand as well.

My old 55g lasted 9 years with no water changes, a heavy fish load, and even some simple easy type corals.

But that just me and my .02

 

[davidwil]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments. I used to have a reef tank with live rock and corals. But even with a large amount of snails and hermit crabs, I always had algae to clean off. I tried just about everything, but if I wanted it to look nice I had to constantly clean (clean the glass every other day, and everything else once per week). I usually did not do that, and the tank usually looked very bad (in my opinion). I like the idea of having macro algae connected to egg crate. Was that standing up in the back, or was the egg crate under the gravel?

I really wish there was a good algae eating fish for saltwater like I can get in freshwater. I know some fish, snails, and crabs eat some, but they don't keep it clean.

The only place I have available is in our kitchen/dining room area, and my wife will not like it if I have an ugly looking tank, I was really hoping I could treat with something like copper, and use a good filtration system to keep it looking good without constantly cleaning it.

Again I appreciate the ideas. I will continue to think on this, and come up with a plan. If I am not certain I can have a nice looking saltwater tank without cleaning it, then I may just go with a freshwater tank.

 

[davidwil]

I have been doing some research on carbon dosing (using vodka or vinegar). It seems you can get nitrates and phosphates low enough algae will not grow (or at least very little). So I am really considering doing this.
If I do I need an over sized skimmer, and am thinking of going with the eshopps psk-100 hob.

Any thoughts on this?

 

[lmforbis]

I have never had any luck with carbon dosing. Close to impossible to prevent film algae on the glass. Low nutrients helps immensely. You can run GFO for phosphates.
https://www.uwcmn.com/product-page/16-oz-vibrant-for-saltwater-aquariums
This product does work and is easy to use.

 

[davidwil]

If that product works as it says, then that is an easy solution. I have never had a fish only saltwater tank. would just some sand, rock (not live rock), and a protein skimmer be sufficient? Along with vibrant to keep the algae off.

 

[geridoc]

The easiest way I know of to control algae is to use algae - macroalgae, that is. Chaeto will work fine. Simply put some in a mesh bag or a compartment created by using plastic light grid, or build (or buy) an algae scrubber. Unless you are overfeeding by a lot or running your lights in the display too long, the chaeto will outcompete the nuisance algae and all you have to do is cut off the overgrowth periodically and throw it out. Problem solved!

 

[beaslbob]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments. I used to have a reef tank with live rock and corals. But even with a large amount of snails and hermit crabs, I always had algae to clean off. I tried just about everything, but if I wanted it to look nice I had to constantly clean (clean the glass every other day, and everything else once per week). I usually did not do that, and the tank usually looked very bad (in my opinion). I like the idea of having macro algae connected to egg crate. Was that standing up in the back, or was the egg crate under the gravel?

I really wish there was a good algae eating fish for saltwater like I can get in freshwater. I know some fish, snails, and crabs eat some, but they don't keep it clean.

The only place I have available is in our kitchen/dining room area, and my wife will not like it if I have an ugly looking tank, I was really hoping I could treat with something like copper, and use a good filtration system to keep it looking good without constantly cleaning it.

Again I appreciate the ideas. I will continue to think on this, and come up with a plan. If I am not certain I can have a nice looking saltwater tank without cleaning it, then I may just go with a freshwater tank.

actually there is algae eating fish in marine systems. especially macro algae eating fish. LOL. most tangs for instance consume macro algae.

plus the common FW molly eats hair algae as well.

not to mention such fish aa a molly miller blenny who reported to eat algae plus cyano and even aptasia as well. And unlike some other algae eating fish it will also eat meaty stuff like common fish food should algae be all cleaned up.

my .02

 

[beaslbob]

The easiest way I know of to control algae is to use algae - macroalgae, that is. Chaeto will work fine. Simply put some in a mesh bag or a compartment created by using plastic light grid, or build (or buy) an algae scrubber. Unless you are overfeeding by a lot or running your lights in the display too long, the chaeto will outcompete the nuisance algae and all you have to do is cut off the overgrowth periodically and throw it out. Problem solved!

+1

 

[davidwil]

I have used both Chaeto in a sump with a light on it, and also an algae scrubber, and still had a lot of cleaning to do in my tank. But maybe if I would have started them before I had an algae problem, it may have worked. In theory if you have established macro algae, it should be hard for other algae to form (especially since the macro algae has lights on 24/7 and the display tank only 4-8 hours). It just did not work out very well for me for some reason.

 

[davidwil]

I have been watching the videos about Ultra low maintanance tanks (by bulk reef supply). I like how the plan was to take 90 for the tank to cycle, with the tank covered, and only lights on the chaeto. I had a feeling the problems I had was due to the fact that I already had an algae problem in the main tank, and the macro algae never overtook it. It never really grew. I was able to grow algae with my algae scrubber, but it never did stop the growth in the main tank.

 

[geridoc]

I have used both Chaeto in a sump with a light on it, and also an algae scrubber, and still had a lot of cleaning to do in my tank. But maybe if I would have started them before I had an algae problem, it may have worked. In theory if you have established macro algae, it should be hard for other algae to form (especially since the macro algae has lights on 24/7 and the display tank only 4-8 hours). It just did not work out very well for me for some reason.

24 hour lights on the macro may be a problem. Growth of photosynthetic organisms uses two different reactions: the light reaction, which takes place using energy from incident light of the proper wavelength, and the dark reaction which takes place in the absence of light. Optimal growth requires both conditions. Most people who use chaeto in their sump use a light cycle opposite to what is in the display. thus, when the display is lit, the sump lights are off, and just the opposite when lights are off the display is lit. This also tends to dampen pH fluctuations in the entire system.

 

[davidwil]

24 hour lights on the macro may be a problem. Growth of photosynthetic organisms uses two different reactions: the light reaction, which takes place using energy from incident light of the proper wavelength, and the dark reaction which takes place in the absence of light. Optimal growth requires both conditions. Most people who use chaeto in their sump use a light cycle opposite to what is in the display. thus, when the display is lit, the sump lights are off, and just the opposite when lights are off the display is lit. This also tends to dampen pH fluctuations in the entire system.

You are correct. It has been a few years since I had my setup, but now I do remember I had the light in the sump on during the night. I also remember I initially setup my tank using the Hiatt method, and I think it worked very well. I stopped using it because when I added hard corals, they did not do so well (possibly due to too low of nutrients)? Now that I am starting to remember. I wonder how well that will work with just fish..? Does anyone use that anymore?

 

[davidwil]

ok, I have been looking back over some of my old posts about my aquarium. It has been a while so I didn't remember everything.

The Hiatt system worked great, other than I had some fish that started getting HLLE which may or may not be related to running large amounts of carbon (the Hiatt system uses a lot). So it is when I removed the carbon, and went to a system with macro algea and reverse daylight lights setup that I started having all the algae problems.

So I may try that system again...? But I don't see anything about that system (at least not anything newer than 2012). Is there something better now?

 

[davidwil]

I Thought I would give an update. I decided to go with a Hiatt system, even though there is very little information about it (it worked for me before). I added all my fish at once (this method works that way), and have had it up and running for 10 days now. I have all fake rock plants and coral (with one live anemone).
Fish:
2- clown fish
2- blue saphire damselfish (I hope they don't end up being a problem, but they have been great so far).
1- royal Gramma
1- green spotted puffer (he is very small now he is on the left side of the tank near the bottom between the coral and the barrels).

 

[ThewaterDen]

You coild include a space in the sump for a refugium, over power it so the chaeto grows like wild fire using up nutrients. Algae will prefer the sump instead of tue display

 

[lmforbis]

I would remove the real anemone. They need very intense light to survive as well as a mature tank.