Recent content by bridge man

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/article...ium_weight.php Take a look at this site. Full of good information.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/article...ium_weight.php http://www.african-cichlid.com/Struct.htm Give these two sites a read. Very helpful information. Basically the same thing on both.

I would recommend against the tap water unless you know its perfect. I initially filled my tank with tap, before I realized there is about 60ppm nitrate, some silicate, and hardness out the ying-yang. The nitrate and silicate is a perfect recipe for algae. Moral of the story, check your tap...

You can use just normal cedar shims which are used to shim out doors and windows. Just wedge two shims under the joists in opposite directions so that they pinch/wedge each other in place. With the new supports being so close to the load bearing wall, you shouldn't have to worry about getting...

Well, I must say, screw you FishDogg. I knew something was up you prick. The next time you go on vacation, you're finished. Note to others, this prick works with me, two cubes down.

Could you please point out some of the flaws for me, because if I am wrong, I wouldn't mind being corrected. I am a graduate of Penn State University with a Bachelors Degree in Civil Engineering with an emphasis on structures. Relevant courses include; statics, design of wood, concrete, and...

You're quite welcome. Starting on the 24th, I won't be around for two weeks, so don't get excited if I don't reply. I will try to catch up when I return the second week of December.

Three more columns should be plenty, because the compressive strength of the block and foundations is far more than the strength of the wood bringing the load to them. The columns should be no problem to build. The foudations will be even easier. You really don't even need to form them up, just...

Is the tank going up against an exterior wall, which would be a block wall running the perimeter of the house? I thought the load bearing wall you were referring to was in the basement. You could build a few more piers, preferably at the corners of the tank and in the middle along the front and...

You could frame another stud wall under where the front edge of the tank will be sitting, which will transfer the load directly into the front and back walls. It may not be preferred if this is a finished basement, but you could always turn this into a closet or something like that. This may be...

First question, is this load bearing wall a block wall or a studded wall? Second question, can you explain the concrete "piers"? The joists will primarily be in shear, and a 2x12 spruce-pine-fir (common material) can handle approximately 788 pounds in shear. In 10', you will have 7-8 joist...

Just place the tank next to a wall with a load bearing wall beneath it. That way you will have no deflection problems at all. The joists will be carrying the load via shear and very little moment. Don't worry about placing any plywood under the stand to help disperse the weight as it will not do...

I would agree that bending the rebar around the corner is the best option. Welding would work if done right, but with the low cost of rebar per pound, it would save time and probably some money to just bend them. There are rebar fabricators that will bend the steel for you to the required...

Don't worry about the tensile strength of concrete, it is basically worthless. In design, we don't even consider the tensile strength of the concrete in basic design. The design parameter used is the compressive strength. I'll use 3000 psi and 6" walls for the numbers to come later. The thing...

Just be sure to provide horizontal bracing in one way or another. If you leave it open, then maybe screw triangular pieces of plywood on the upper corners to help restrict movement.