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Definitely not an Emerald. While I can't identify it, one thing about it tells me it may not be a threat... the claws. From what I've gathered, rounded claws typically indicate reef-friendly crabs, while pointed claws typically aren't.

Bleahced out Stichodactyla Tapetum... aka mini-carpet anemone. Needs better lighting so it'll color up.

Yes... dry rock will become "live" over time as it colonizes with beneficial bacteria. The advantage of dry rock is that is is completely pest free.

Putting Flipper in the tank makes it look huge... LOL!!!

If on computer or laptop, use Paint to resize it. If on cell phone, send original picture to yourself in a message or email, save the sent picture, and use it to upload here.

Awesome! Glad to know you got some that will eat it right away! :D

I'm not a fan of chemicals either, but Aiptasia-X is completely "reef safe". It isn't a poison. It's more of a glue than anything. It works by gluing the nem's mouth shut, and it basically implodes. Kind of fun to watch, actually...

Fortunately, the RO membrane... which happens to be the most expensive component... should last about 3 years. It depends on your filter change routine, and if you use a flush kit. Dirty or leaking filters and no flush kit will kill the RO in short order.

Uhm... exactly how high up is your aquarium??? I'm like Imforbis... I let my pumps do all the work. ;)

If your Diamond Goby eats prepared food, you're one of the lucky ones. I had one in my 40B, and while I thought the sand bed was established enough, apparently it wasn't. I also had a refugium that had been established for years, and I even watched it eat processed foods... only to pass it back...

Yeah... it's a real PITA having to resize photos just so this site will accept them. I've acquired a new hobby... chickens. I joined BackYardChickens dot com, and the site layout is exactly like this one, but I don't have to resize anything.

Once hair algae becomes established, it's a PITA to ever get under control, much less eliminate. How is your Phosphate level? HA can survive on barely detectable levels of Nitrate and Phosphate, and aggressive removal may simply slow it down. Does the tank still have compact florescent lighting...

Diamond Gobies are sand sifters. Do not get one unless you have an adequate, well-established sand bed. A refugium is also highly recommended for DG's.

+1. Better safe than sorry.

#2 aiptasia. #3. more aiptasia. #4 gold stripe maroon clownfish. #5 humbug damsel. #6 yellow-tailed damsel. #7 heater... and sixline wrasse. #8 torch coral. #9 yellow sponge. #10 watermelon mushroom. #11 bristle worm. #12 aquarium... lol! Yes, you should work aggressively on the aiptasia...

If it's always 0, then you certainly don't need DI. That's a pretty rare treat... lol!

+1. If the water isn't shared between the tanks, you should be good to go. If it's communal water (shared between tanks), it's no different than having the fish in the community tanks with a bunch of other fish. It must be a completely separate system for quarantine to work. If that particular...

+1. Set the internal water level at it's lowest point (outlet valve wide open), and adjust it as necessary to get the desired foam head. If it continues to overflow at lowest water level, take the skimmer pump apart and give it a good cleaning. A dirty pump will cause overflowing...

I've promoted T5 lighting as long as I've been in the hobby. I am here today to announce... I still do. I haven't jumped onto the LED wagon, and until they can equal what T5's can do, at an affordable price, I'll continue to use T5's. Turns out I'm not the only one who thinks so. Ryan from BRS...

You're very welcome!