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That is "Opsanus Tau". I did research with them years ago. They are hardy, pretty difficult to kill, actually. They are not venomous, but are poisonous. They produce a toxin, tetradotoxin, which impairs nerve-nerve communication. You can only get poisoned by consuming the flesh or the poison...

Did I ever have a fish that refused food??? I wish I had ten cents for every fish that never began to eat after I bought it during my 41 years of marine fishkeeping. Fish will refuse food for a variety of reasons, some minor (stress of a new environment) to truly deadly ( parasite infections)...

Too much nutrient in the water, either from overfeeding or overstocking is probably the number 2 problem in salt water fishkeeping. What is number 1? Not quarantining every incoming living thing until it is proven healthy and is eating. Just my 2 cents...

One problem you will never have is nobody responding to one of your questions. As you have already seen, you got 6 responses consisting of 2 different opinions. If you had a dozen responses you would have seen even more varied opinions. This is a good thing, since the experienced aquariasts on...

I believe that there are construction differences between terrariums and fish tanks, mainly in how the panes are siliconed together and the seams covered.

I've had an AWI system for many years with no problems except for the failure of the inline TDS meter. It is at least 10 years old, but they replaced it for free anyway. A good company to deal with. Give them a call and they will recommend exactly what you need.

The dried rock began to become "live" the moment that ammonia was present in the tank, either from decaying food or a source such as a cocktail shrimp, or from the direct addition of ammonia. However, it will not have the enormous diversity that "from-the-ocean" live rock will have for a long...

Is the ocean rock live, or was it dried?

To really see what goes on at night put a red filter over the flashlight - most animals don't see well in the red, but you do, so they don't know they are bveing observed.

Find a local fish club and ask the members - someone will give you a handfull since they are going to throw it out anyway.

Right, you want ammonia and nitrite to be zero. Acceptable nitrate levels depend on what you intend to house. For fish you don't really have to worry about nitrates - they are generally quite tolerant, and regular water changes (or macro algae, OK beaslbob?) should maintain safe levels. Water...

Great news! Congratulations.

I recall seeing a research paper several years ago that said that nitrates below 100 were OK for FOWLR. That said, a level of zero never hurts.

The answer is - YES, anything that can go wrong with a check valve will go wrong with a check valve sooner or later. OTOH, physics never goes wrong, so an anti-siphon hole will always work as planned.

The API kit measures nitrate nitrogen. To convert to values that most kits use (nitrates) divide by 4. That means that your true nitrate level is 5, plenty low for your FOWLR system.

Also, be sure of what you are measuring. Some kits measure nitrate, others measure nitrate nitrogen. These are two different values that differ numerically by 4X. You need to read the literature that comes with the kit to know what you are measuring, and what their normal (safe) levels actually are.

Its hard to find specs for the Fluval unit, but the Current light should be adequate for most low to moderate light-requiring corals. SPS probably won't thrive. The price on the Current light may drop soon since they have been promising a new "Pro" version that has much more power.

That is the same pump I am planning to use for my 220 gallon system + 110 gallon sump, with the sump located in the basement 15 feet below the tank.

The hammerhead/barracuda by reeflo will need a gate valve on its outflow since even in the barracuda configuration since it can produce 4000-6000 gph, enough to blow your fish into the next zip code.

Wow! Beautiful fish. What size tank is that. With so many tangs you will need lots of room to avoid aggression even though they were added together. Watch carefully for an ammonia spike, so have lots of water ready for emergency water changes, or use one of the ammonia neutralizers if necessary.