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In short Reverse Osmosis De-ionization units remove all dissolved solids from your water. It basically takes in your tap water and filters it through sediment and carbon then the RO filter lets clean water pass through it and it "rejects' water that won't pass muster (which is waste water and...

500 would be unnecessarily high for calcium. 440 is perfect. Do a water change (obviously with RO/DI water) and make sure you have a good quality test kit for mag. What exactly are your alk and PH numbers?

You should get a refractometer anyways. I've seen swing arm hydrometers off by more than 25%. They're cheap now anyways, you can get them for 40 bucks. Well worth the investment to have an accurate salinity reading.

http://www.saltwater-aquarium-online-guide.com/water-parameters.html

When I got out of the hobby a few years ago there were no bio pellets, no algae scrubber, and GFO was just starting to become common place. As I evaluate my future tank plans it's starting to look like from as far as I can tell is that a bio pellet reactor plumbed so the output goes straight to...

Obviously I don't know what your specific limitations are but if you design the system around you then you can probably make it work. You may have to come up with some creative ways to move water from point A to point B. Maybe putting the sump next to the tank instead of under the tank so it...

if 81 is as high as it gets then you shouldn't have any problem just using a fan.

Technically it is but what are you using it for? You *should* be using RO/DI water and not tap water for a reef tank.

If you want it to continue to spread then Just move it next to some other rock that you'd want it to spread to. leaving it surrounded by sand will sometimes contain them but a baby may come loose and land somewhere else in your tank and call it home and a new colony is born.

Quote: Originally Posted by saxman Looks like a little Cerith...good snail. +1

it looks way too watery, it should just be the proteins that stay in bubble form for more than a few seconds that should be skimmed. It should be dark sludge instead of brown-ish water.

Yea the suction cups on the Koralias aren't really needed since as mentioned they have a magnet that you stick on the outside so they're not going to go anywhere.

Just out of curiosity do you know what your mag and strontium are at?

Bleached out algae? Is this a new rock or something that's been in the tank for awhile?

can you circle or further describe what you're looking at. I think I see feather dusters but I'm not sure what you're looking at since there's a lot of little things that could be what you're talking about. and the picture is a little grainy at that level to see what we're talking about.

I think they're growth is about as fast as watching paint dry and someone coming along every few minutes to spray mist on it. I usually see most people putting them on the sand or low, if you want it on the rock where it is I wouldn't see much of a problem, just check to see if you're getting...

what's your current flow rates for what you do already have? You're probably going to need to add some powerheads. Koralias aren't took expensive but make a huge difference.

Quote: Originally Posted by Flower You will need PVC to rig up your plumbing, unless you plan to just use flex hose...I do because I like that I can see the inside of the hoses. However, PVC is still needed for your drilled overflow. You will also need bulkheads for the holes. I marked in red...

Looks ok on the face of it. Others may chime in on the order in which to add them. Obviously not all at once or before proper cycling and bacteria build up. Probably suggested order would be Wrasse, Dog Face, Trigger, tangs together and Emperor last. Picasso Triggers are fun. They'll wedge...

Platygyra of some kind it looks like. Medium flow and medium light.