10 gallon filter...?
- Thread starter jake15
- Start date
jeepman3sk
Member
i have a millennium 1000 filter with only the bio filter part in. My LFS told me to take out the carbon part. It is working out pretty well.
mikegronholz
Member
I used an AC110, modified it to have multiple chambers including a refugium ... see below
jake15
Member
mike,
Do you have nice water quality and clearity?
My current setup is a whisper 60 filter but i dont like it at all and my water is clear but im lookin for crystal clear and nothing floating up top. So if anyone has a skimmer for a 10 could you let me know about this as well.
Thanks for all your help so far
Do you have nice water quality and clearity?
My current setup is a whisper 60 filter but i dont like it at all and my water is clear but im lookin for crystal clear and nothing floating up top. So if anyone has a skimmer for a 10 could you let me know about this as well.
Thanks for all your help so far
chipmaker
Active Member
I bet you would be more than satisfied with an Aqua Clean hob type of the 110 size (old number is 500)......Convert it into a fuge like shown above and its super.......Shop aorund on the internet as there is a considerablke price difference between a lot of places or at places like ***** or Petsmart, the difference can be as much as $40 in what they charge. All of the AC hob filters make good mechanical filters and fuges from pico sized tanks up to about a 75 or 90 gal...The 110 is rated for up to 110 gal but I htink that may be pushing it.
mikegronholz
Member
Actually, I have disassembled the filter again 
If you look at the pic above, you wil notice that the water won't flow through the carbon but over it. So i am redoing the first baffle so the water flows underneath and through the baffle in to the heater chamber.
But short answer, just a regular heater ... nothing special. I live in TX, where as a general rule, the heater doesn't kick on much. What I really need is a chiller (which I will be adding shortly).
If you look at the pic above, you wil notice that the water won't flow through the carbon but over it. So i am redoing the first baffle so the water flows underneath and through the baffle in to the heater chamber.But short answer, just a regular heater ... nothing special. I live in TX, where as a general rule, the heater doesn't kick on much. What I really need is a chiller (which I will be adding shortly).
mikegronholz
Member
the AC110 is HUGE ... there is about 1.5" between those baflfes ... the picture makes it look smaller than it is.
chipmaker
Active Member
You have approximately 7" depth to work with which will accomdate any 25 watt and a lot of 50 watt heaters. There needs to be a baffle directly against the impeller platform area and make it so that the bottom of the baffle is about 1/2 to 3/4" above the very bottom of the hob lowest portioon of the floor directly adjacent to the pumps raised platform area. Its also good to have the area above the platform area with holes so water also flows thorugh it as well. The side of the original filter miedia basket cut to shape and size works perfect for this baffle. Leave a space between this baffle and the next which needs to be a solid piece at least 3" high to keep sand etc from getting drawn back in and around the first chamber. It needs to be attached from the bottom and up the sides. Leave about a 3/4" space and install yet another baffle inline and on top of this lower 3" baffle. The space between the top of the 3" and the bottom of the upper is suffiicient to channel water out, after it flows thorugh any media or carbon etc you put in that first chamber. I use a coarse sponge cut from included white sponge in the shape of an inverted letter L to act like a mechanical filter, yet provide space for adding carbon etc and placement of heater. If current is still to much into the fuge chamber, another short small baffle baffle can be added from the fuges water level down to about 3/4" off the fuge bottom, and spaced about 1/4 to 1/2" from the last split baffle. Even if filter sponge clogs up, the space around the intake tube is sufficient and designed to allow the water to flow out around the inflow tube, and it can also flow over the baffle tops and sponge into the main fuge area......For all the baffles adn the water spillway guard they can all be cut from the hob filters media basket that is packed with the pump.......only thing you should have to buy extra is marine goop, as its all makeable from the media basket and included sponge etc.
jeepman3sk
Member
I just ordered a skimmer for my 10g. It should be here sometime it was on back order It was $30 from marine depot so if it doesnt work well thats not alot of money to be out. When I get it ill let you guys know how it works. I think it is a Current USA skimmer but not positive.