wattsupdoc
Active Member
Basic plumbing diagram. Arrange these however is necessary to fit neatly under the stand. Any questions?
125 rr over flow pipes
- Thread starter whitebird
- Start date
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Compartment sizes and baffles sizes.The baffles will need to be cutto the inside width of the tank. Measure the space and dont cut them too long, or you'll have crooked baffles. A little shorter but not much shorter is best. Within 1/16th if possible. Placement and actual compartment sizes will not be exact, you'll need to ad-lib as you go.
First baffles=5.5LX9WX14H
Heater compartment =20LX14Hx3W
Fuge compartment= 9WX14.5LX14H Approximatly
Pump compart/including baffles on both sides= 10.5LX12WX10H
Rubble compartment=6LX12WX10H
Skimmer =11.5LX12WX10H(or whatever is left, no smaller than 9X12 though.)
Fudge the rubble compartment if need be, Baffles are set at 1.5 in apart, with raised baffles at 2In up. Except the sponge baffle, set that to match your sponges thickness.So it fits a little tight.First baffle on the fuge side, after the drain from tank, set it at 2.5 in. Or you can go wider if you want, just take from the fuge compartment if you do. 2.5in will be tight for getting your hand into if need be. But shouldnt have much need to later.
Baffle hieght. From right to left, heater divider first.
1. 20"LX15H
2.9LX14H
3.9X14
4.9LX6H AND>>>9LX8H (Top)
5 12LX14H
6. 12X14
7. 12X6
8.12X6
9. 12LX10H
10. 12LX10H
Backwash was calculated at 11.23 gallons. Sump/ fuge will allow approximatly17 -18 gal.of backwash.
You can install a baffle in the skimmer section to help with microbubbles which might influence the skimmers performance. Between the drain and the skimmer. If so just make it a 10X12 baffle. You can use a filter sock also, or try a "T" in the drain line, with the open end facing away from the skimmer.
First baffles=5.5LX9WX14H
Heater compartment =20LX14Hx3W
Fuge compartment= 9WX14.5LX14H Approximatly
Pump compart/including baffles on both sides= 10.5LX12WX10H
Rubble compartment=6LX12WX10H
Skimmer =11.5LX12WX10H(or whatever is left, no smaller than 9X12 though.)
Fudge the rubble compartment if need be, Baffles are set at 1.5 in apart, with raised baffles at 2In up. Except the sponge baffle, set that to match your sponges thickness.So it fits a little tight.First baffle on the fuge side, after the drain from tank, set it at 2.5 in. Or you can go wider if you want, just take from the fuge compartment if you do. 2.5in will be tight for getting your hand into if need be. But shouldnt have much need to later.
Baffle hieght. From right to left, heater divider first.
1. 20"LX15H
2.9LX14H
3.9X14
4.9LX6H AND>>>9LX8H (Top)
5 12LX14H
6. 12X14
7. 12X6
8.12X6
9. 12LX10H
10. 12LX10H
Backwash was calculated at 11.23 gallons. Sump/ fuge will allow approximatly17 -18 gal.of backwash.
You can install a baffle in the skimmer section to help with microbubbles which might influence the skimmers performance. Between the drain and the skimmer. If so just make it a 10X12 baffle. You can use a filter sock also, or try a "T" in the drain line, with the open end facing away from the skimmer.
whitebird
Member
hey Doc soulds like i can geter done might take me a bit longer now that we had to go take our mini dachsund to the vet today for a c-section had to use part of our tank setup money to pay the bill $440.00 for the 6 pups she had they were to big at 8.5 oz each but there sure cute,
ok the mag 18 will be better suited for this set up over the mag 12? not much diff in price on them anyway, i called a glass place today one close to us at 30 miles away they want almost $5 a sqrft for 3/16s and 1/4" glass sounded kinda high to me so next trip to the larger town 70 miles away i'm going check with them or if plexyglass would work i can buy it and cut myself would it hold up for baffles?
but thank you again for your time on this with me
ok the mag 18 will be better suited for this set up over the mag 12? not much diff in price on them anyway, i called a glass place today one close to us at 30 miles away they want almost $5 a sqrft for 3/16s and 1/4" glass sounded kinda high to me so next trip to the larger town 70 miles away i'm going check with them or if plexyglass would work i can buy it and cut myself would it hold up for baffles?
but thank you again for your time on this with me
wattsupdoc
Active Member
The problem is silicone doesn't bond well so acrylic. But does bond well to glass. I bet those pups are cute.
Just be sure you get the right measurement on the glass. 1/8th of an inch can make a big difference. Been there done that.... There's going to be some head loss regardless of pump.So in order to meet the 1200 ghp through the tank, the additional flow to reactors(not much at all for those) the future UV, the heaters we need to look for a pump bigger than the mag 12, mag 16 is next in line. When I can I'll do a head loss calc and see if there's a pump that we can match a little closer if you like. But the mag 18 is a good choice for in/out sump use.
K, after calculating it on -- head loss calc, the mag 18 wont even give 1200 GPH through the tank. But still might be sifficient. However, you might still want to bump up to the mag 24. Google head loss calculator and you decide.
K, after calculating it on -- head loss calc, the mag 18 wont even give 1200 GPH through the tank. But still might be sifficient. However, you might still want to bump up to the mag 24. Google head loss calculator and you decide.
whitebird
Member
well i'm not sure if i figured it right but the mag 18 put the return in the 900 to 1000 gph and the mag 24 at about 1300 to 1400 gph range so looks like the mag 24 it is
heres just a thought on this if the mg 24 is to much would running a bleed pipe T'ed off back to where the drain pipe goes to keep from restricting the pump by just useing a valve
heres just a thought on this if the mg 24 is to much would running a bleed pipe T'ed off back to where the drain pipe goes to keep from restricting the pump by just useing a valve
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Look at the piping drawing it shows a line going over to the heater section. feed excess through there. You'll have some excess I'm sure!
The first sump drawing shows a line on the drain coming from the tank going to the heaters. You can still do that if you want, but the feed from the return pump would be enough. Plus this is processed water, It'll keep that compartment cleaner than unprocessed water.
If you still find it's too much, throttle back the the total flow is restricted. The only reason I can see it would still be too much is noise. Before you do your plumbing google Hermie style standpipe. I haven't actually used these myself, but if they work like they are reported to, they are very quite. But, you'll need to use both holes in both OF's to do this. With returns hanging over the back. There's a 3 pipe version out there, but I don't see it's necessary. There might be some constant tuning issues with these. I dunno
see if you can find some people who have been running them and chat with them.
wattsupdoc
Active Member
OOOOPS My bad, Herbie Style standpipe.
whitebird
Member
hey Doc
we finaly got the sump done i put it together yesterday did a leak test today on the baffles had to reseal 2 leaks test again tomorrow,
well the heater compartment kinda got left out i goofed up when i called the glass order in and made them all the same width and being a 60 mile round trip i wasn't going to send my wife back to get then cut and the other devider made but my heater will fit in the fudge so i think all is ok, as of now i have a mag 24 pump all the pipe and fittings and i hope to have it running in a week but here is a picture of the tank as it is now and a picture of the sump
we finaly got the sump done i put it together yesterday did a leak test today on the baffles had to reseal 2 leaks test again tomorrow,
well the heater compartment kinda got left out i goofed up when i called the glass order in and made them all the same width and being a 60 mile round trip i wasn't going to send my wife back to get then cut and the other devider made but my heater will fit in the fudge so i think all is ok, as of now i have a mag 24 pump all the pipe and fittings and i hope to have it running in a week but here is a picture of the tank as it is now and a picture of the sump
wattsupdoc
Active Member
SWEEEET!
Tank looks good!
wattsupdoc
Active Member
WOOOOT! There it is!
Nice job
whitebird
Member
hey its up and running but how do i get rid of all the little bubbles its puting back in the DT, see anything i did wrong? the ma24 is running full out and the returns are wide open its doing great exept for the bubbles in the return and that mag 24 is loud are they all this way with this size of pump? is my return flow to strong causeing the bubbles ? and here is a pic of both the tank and sump and my return setup
wattsupdoc
Active Member
Raise the water level in the return chamber, just top it off a little higher. Move the skimmer to the other compartment. Place a sponge at the water level height between the baffles just after the fuge side. To stop making bubbles there, as well as noise. The mag pump shouldn't be real loud. Try putting something under it, like a piece of rubber mat, mouse pad etc. Look every where for any place air can be getting sucked into the lines. Especially at your syphon break. Is it under water? Your going to be doing some "tuning" for a bit. Just start at the top, then one thing at a time.
whitebird
Member
well i think i solved it or i should of said my wife did she said get rid that big loud pump (mag 24) or else
and i tryed every thing to quiet it down with no luck so took it back traded it for the mag 18 and well you can't hardly hear this one run the skimmer pump makes more noise now
, i can't realy tell much diff in return flow in the DT but the water being pumped out of the sump is slower and cut the the bubbles in the return to about none now and i think on the right side of the sump where the water traveled less distance to the mag 24 pump was the problem as it was just moviing to fast, so after the pump switch i'm verry pleased they way it turned out,
and after priceing the locklines for the return was about $75 i decided to try my own i came off the 3/4" return stand pipe with 1/2" and added 5 t's to each side and put 90's on the and caped with two 1/4" holes drilled in each cap for directing flow i spent 2 hrs getting them set to where i liked the flow in the tank so will see how it works out in the next week but they give off more flow and where i want it to go than the 5 power heads i had in it.
and thanks for all your help Doc
next i will put on a pic of the stand whem i finish getting it all done may be a week or so but will get one of it
and after priceing the locklines for the return was about $75 i decided to try my own i came off the 3/4" return stand pipe with 1/2" and added 5 t's to each side and put 90's on the and caped with two 1/4" holes drilled in each cap for directing flow i spent 2 hrs getting them set to where i liked the flow in the tank so will see how it works out in the next week but they give off more flow and where i want it to go than the 5 power heads i had in it.
and thanks for all your help Doc
next i will put on a pic of the stand whem i finish getting it all done may be a week or so but will get one of it
whitebird
Member
here is what my tank looks like today
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/364315/my-125-a-year-later
https://forums.saltwaterfish.com/t/364315/my-125-a-year-later