2 1/2 weeks! This can't be right!
- Thread starter dmill15
- Start date
tyr-sog
Member
Will adding more live rock from a lfs at this point interrupt the cycle at this stage?
FYI, I have a 46gal bowfront, 80lbs of LS and 40 Lbs of LR. I added some cleanup critters about a week ago and non parished.
Also, at this point is this a good time to go with a skimmer? I'm thinking about pairing my TetraTec filter(I know, I know) with a Prizem skimmer for filteration along with my powerhead for circulation.
FYI, I have a 46gal bowfront, 80lbs of LS and 40 Lbs of LR. I added some cleanup critters about a week ago and non parished.
Also, at this point is this a good time to go with a skimmer? I'm thinking about pairing my TetraTec filter(I know, I know) with a Prizem skimmer for filteration along with my powerhead for circulation.
barracuda
Active Member
Originally posted by bradttu
Sure I can! I added 60 pounds of CaribSea, Arag-Alive LS and 40 pounds of LR. I turned on my powerfilter, and protein skimmer, set my lights for 11 hours on and 13 off. That's it!!
From what i see, you did it well. If you won't initiate another cycle (just to make sure the first was successful) at least add livestock slowly and monitor levels.
Good luck!!!
dmill15
Member
Barracuda,
You asked earlier what kind of test kit I had it is an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals saltwater masters. Just re-checked everything again and nothing has changed. So I guess I will try and get more rock this weekend probably some more Natures Ocean too. And get the clean up crew next weekend.
Dave
You asked earlier what kind of test kit I had it is an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals saltwater masters. Just re-checked everything again and nothing has changed. So I guess I will try and get more rock this weekend probably some more Natures Ocean too. And get the clean up crew next weekend.
Dave
reef fool
Active Member
Quote by Dmill15: You asked earlier what kind of test kit I had it is an Aquarium Pharmaceuticals saltwater masters. Just re-checked everything again and nothing has changed.
Make sure you follow the nitrate test instructions to the T. There is alot of vigorous shaking and waiting involved in the test. If it is not done correctly you will have a lower reading than what is present.
Happened to me once. I knew something was wrong, but all my tests were good, so I brought some water to the LFS and the nitrates were 40ppm. They tested 10ppm with that kit! He used a Salifert kit.
Not saying that your nitrates are wong, just be specific to the instructions when testing. I guess I wasn't shaking long enough or waiting long enough. Either way, it was a mess.
Good Luck, Frank
Make sure you follow the nitrate test instructions to the T. There is alot of vigorous shaking and waiting involved in the test. If it is not done correctly you will have a lower reading than what is present.
Happened to me once. I knew something was wrong, but all my tests were good, so I brought some water to the LFS and the nitrates were 40ppm. They tested 10ppm with that kit! He used a Salifert kit.
Not saying that your nitrates are wong, just be specific to the instructions when testing. I guess I wasn't shaking long enough or waiting long enough. Either way, it was a mess.
Good Luck, Frank
reef fool
Active Member
As I said before, if you are in doubt, take some water to your LFS and ask them to test it and compare.
Salifert kits are the best. SWF.com has good prices on these kits. I bought all Salifert and did away with my AQ. Pharm. Kit.
I use B-Ionic to dose Ca and Alk. A little expensive compared to some methods, but a high quality product. It also has some trace elements in it. Ca levels should be between 400-450 ppm. No higher especially if you have fish in the reef tank.
Salifert kits are the best. SWF.com has good prices on these kits. I bought all Salifert and did away with my AQ. Pharm. Kit.
I use B-Ionic to dose Ca and Alk. A little expensive compared to some methods, but a high quality product. It also has some trace elements in it. Ca levels should be between 400-450 ppm. No higher especially if you have fish in the reef tank.
nicenakago
Member
My bubbles in the sand didn't start until I upgraded my NO lighting to MH
T
thomas712
Guest
Barracuda - I have to disagree on this one. Why
Because of microsopic algea, you see this is something that is all over the tank, rocks, substrate. Normally they only become visible after they have taken hold and begin to colonize. The amount of algea a tank has depends on many things here like age of system, substrate and rocks.
Since this guy upgraded his lighting and then noticed the air bubbles what i think happend here was that the algea was giving off excess 02 due to the increase in the lights or even length of time they are on. It won't take long for his system to compensate and become balanced again with its ability to absorb the excess 02 and handle the greater depletion of CO2.
Make sence?
Thomas
Because of microsopic algea, you see this is something that is all over the tank, rocks, substrate. Normally they only become visible after they have taken hold and begin to colonize. The amount of algea a tank has depends on many things here like age of system, substrate and rocks.
Since this guy upgraded his lighting and then noticed the air bubbles what i think happend here was that the algea was giving off excess 02 due to the increase in the lights or even length of time they are on. It won't take long for his system to compensate and become balanced again with its ability to absorb the excess 02 and handle the greater depletion of CO2.
Make sence?
Thomas
barracuda
Active Member
Tomas, i agree about your statement with algae and lighting. Bubbles all over the rocks where algae is present is photosynthesis. I have those bubbles too, all over my rocks, wherever algae is present. But bubbles in the sand (DSB) represents free nitrogen, unless his sandbed covered with micro/macro algae on top of the sand. This is what i think.