3 hardy fish dead in 3 days - what's the problem???

[uberlink]

Originally Posted by Felipe
OK, installing it right away.
Any tips on how it should be done? Any links to how to install a protein skimmer?
Do I need a powerhead to get it gong?
Will adding more bioballs help?
Will more frequent DLS pads changes help?
Felipe

What kind of skimmer do you have? On mine (Aqua C Remora) I just installed the powerhead on the intake, hung it on the back, and plugged it in. Some need a powerhead, some have an internal pump, others run on an air pump. What brand/model is yours? Someone can help if you give this info.
I don't think I'd add more bioballs. Although they help the nitrogen cycle, they don't export nitrates--which is your problem at this point.
DLS pads? If those are filter cartridges, then I don't think more frequent changes would help. In fact, it might hurt because they may be providing a source of biological filtration.
More live rock will certainly help, but not right away.
Bottom line: I don't think there's anything that would solve your problems except a larger tank or fewer animals.

 

[felipe]

The skimmer is a SeaLife systems such as the one http://saltaquarium.about.com/gi/dyn...%2FSEALIFE.htm

 

[stanlalee]

Your pH is low but a stable pH of 7.8 arent killing your fish. Instead of disecting each and every scenario we can all sum it up in a nutshell: slow down!
If you have any trace nitrites or ammonia you shouldn't have any corals and all but the hardiest fish if any. Nitrates of 40ppm with a fish only tank is where you start thinking to yourself I cant let it get any higher. For a tank with polyps and xenia you past that point at 10ppm.
What I would do:
1. keep the clown and damsel, the hermits, the snails shrimp and crabs
2. I would lose the puffer, pearch and grouper (all will need bigger tank and/or arent reef friendly)
3.Lose the stars. chocolate chip isn't reef safe and until you get your parameters in check and more established set up I wouldn't bother with any stars
4.Lose the Halimeda or start testing and dosing for calcium if neccessary. Without proper calcium levels they either wont survive or may deplete the rest of the tank of calcium.
5.If the corals arent dead yet might as well keep them. Your parameters can only improve if you lose some of that bioload.
6. Dont add anything else for at least a few months and start testing for phophate, calcium, alkalinity along with nitrate, nitrite, pH and ammonia like you've been doing. Buffer and do whats neccessary to get pH up to at least a stable 8.0 (which is all I keep mine at despite the ideal of 8.2-8.3, nearly immpossible to maintain in a small tank without dosing all the time. at 8.0 I dont have to buffer and everything still does well).
7. Decide what kind of tank you want to have. Right now you have a peaceful, aggressive fish only reef set up. You have fish that arent (suppose to be) compatible with your clean up crew, fish that arent (suppose to be)compatible with corals, stars that arent suppose to be compatible with corals/prey, fish that arent (suppose to be) compatible with each other in a tank size that will only make things worse. If you are going to add more corals and anything less hardy you simply cant have a high bioload (anything that will push your nitrates past 5ppm). If you can make it all work great but the odds arent likely. Either way you cant have it all simply too much in there.
8.After your numbers are all great (which they should get with two fish, clean up crew and regularly scheduled water changes) add ONE THING and wait again. Make sure your testing numbers are stable and good for at least another 3wks before adding something else. you may not be able to tell after a week or two if the new addition has taxed your bio filtration. then adding something else is only going to make it crash harder when the bad things finally start showing up. if ammonia or nitrite start to show at all you'll just have to wait longer before adding. Repeat until its fully stocked. 10" of fish in a 50 gallon is pushing it ( 1" per 5 gallons is supose to be the maxium rule of thump with you've reached and all too quickly. I would go with 1" per 10 gallons maybe less if you decide to go reef).

 

[felipe]

Stanlalee,
Thank you much for the long and thoughtful response. It helps a lot.
I get it now that I went too fast, and will need a lot of measures to correct things if I want everything else to stay alive.
Felipe

 

[firedog]

Not so sure about using lava rock in your tank. I have read recommendations against. Possibility of adding contaminants to your tank, or at least nutrients to cause an algae breakout.

 

[darth tang]

Originally Posted by Firedog
Not so sure about using lava rock in your tank. I have read recommendations against. Possibility of adding contaminants to your tank, or at least nutrients to cause an algae breakout.

Correct, most lava rock will contain trace metals such as copper and so on. Not exactly a good idea.

 

[uberlink]

Originally Posted by Felipe
The skimmer is a SeaLife systems such as the one http://saltaquarium.about.com/gi/dyn...%2FSEALIFE.htm
I don't know how to install that skimmer. It looks to me like it might be designed to go in a sump, not hang on the tank.
Can anyone else provide some advice? I think we all recognize that it would help to get the skimmer installed, even if it won't solve the basic problems.

 

[mr_bill]

Originally Posted by uberlink
I don't know how to install that skimmer. It looks to me like it might be designed to go in a sump, not hang on the tank.
Can anyone else provide some advice? I think we all recognize that it would help to get the skimmer installed, even if it won't solve the basic problems.
Thats an in-sump skimmer. Alot like mine, you just need to place it into your wet-dry and plug it in. The little black hose has a needle valve on it that you can turn to restrict air flow and you will want to have the water level about 1/2" from the bottom of the collection cup.

 

[felipe]

OK, after a lot of work, my girlfriend and I got the protein skimmer running.
there is a water level mark, and that's where the water is. but the foam is barely 1/2 an inch thich. How is it supposed to go all the way to the top? i have that valve opened almost all the way and the foam is pretty thin still.
Thanks!
Felipe

 

[mr_bill]

I would open the air valve all the way and then adjust the water level up so that it's at or just above the water level line the manufacturer put on there. When real junk starts getting collected it will make its way up the tube. Since you have this in a sump try to make all these water level adjustments to the skimmer while you have the water level in the sump right where it needs to be. Often the skimmer will not function properly if the water level in the sump rises above the level it was at when you dialed in the skimmer.