300 Gallon Reef System - Price Estimate

reefkprz

Active Member
another way to keep electrical costs down is by seperating the power load onto many circuts instead of just one, one of the biggest boosters of electric bills is overloaded circuts by trying to pull a ton of juice through one or two circuts. Older houses are notorious for higher bills due to so much being on one circut. When I re wired my house I broke everything into as many circuts as my panel would allow. talking to the power company and master electricians helped alot. also running a heavier gauge wire helps to because it carries a higher electrical load easier.
just so you know I breed exotic retiles and such so the power requirments for my house are insane. dividing power usage onto as many circuts as possible was one of the highest reccomended ways to reduce power use that was reccomended by every source.
 

al mc

Active Member
Reefkprz is definately right about older homes and electric curcuits. I have a 175 DT with an 3' by 5' refugium sump in the basement below the tank at my place of work. The DT has a Current Obit 6' MH/T5 light; several power heads; the sump has two ASM 4x skimmers; lots of heaters; Mag 36.....This
is an older building with older circuits....I have been at this establishment for
20 years..had the tank a little over a year..the electric cost (allowing for price increase) went up 225-250/month...may have to get 'Reefkprz' to rewire for me
 

scsinet

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
another way to keep electrical costs down is by seperating the power load onto many circuts instead of just one, one of the biggest boosters of electric bills is overloaded circuts by trying to pull a ton of juice through one or two circuts. Older houses are notorious for higher bills due to so much being on one circut. When I re wired my house I broke everything into as many circuts as my panel would allow. talking to the power company and master electricians helped alot. also running a heavier gauge wire helps to because it carries a higher electrical load easier.
just so you know I breed exotic retiles and such so the power requirments for my house are insane. dividing power usage onto as many circuts as possible was one of the highest reccomended ways to reduce power use that was reccomended by every source.

This is not in any way correct. The amount of load on an electrical circuit in relation to that circuit's capacity has nothing to do with the amount of electricity you consume. If you have a 15 amp circuit with 15 amps of power flowing through it or you have (3) 15 amp circuits with 5 amps flowing through each, it's 15 amps, no matter which way you slice it. Sorry to say, but your sources are incorrect.
 

triton

Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
This is not in any way correct. The amount of load on an electrical circuit in relation to that circuit's capacity has nothing to do with the amount of electricity you consume. If you have a 15 amp circuit with 15 amps of power flowing through it or you have (3) 15 amp circuits with 5 amps flowing through each, it's 15 amps, no matter which way you slice it. Sorry to say, but your sources are incorrect.
I am thinking of sticking with smaller scale systems. Electricity is going to keep going up in this country, and I am all about long term financial planning. I don't want to have a system that is costing $300-400month in electricity in 10 years time!
Thanks for the advice, it was very helpfull.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
This is not in any way correct. The amount of load on an electrical circuit has nothing to do with the amount of electricity you consume. If you have a 15 amp circuit with 15 amps of power flowing through it or you have (3) 15 amp circuits with 5 amps flowing through each, it's 15 amps, no matter which way you slice it. Sorry to say, but your sources are incorrect.

I'm afraid I have to disagree. mathmaticly thats looks good on paper but your forgetting the power wasted pushing through the line to get from the source to the device, the longer the wire and bigger the load the more is wasted pushing to the device. electricity is wasted in transmission to heat and resistance. so by reducing the amount of resistance to the load amount you reduce the waste.
 

hatessushi

Active Member
If you look into costs of electricity by using LED lighting you might be surprised. IMO the lighting quality looks better then halides do on corals. They are also more adjustable.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
This is not in any way correct. The amount of load on an electrical circuit in relation to that circuit's capacity has nothing to do with the amount of electricity you consume. If you have a 15 amp circuit with 15 amps of power flowing through it or you have (3) 15 amp circuits with 5 amps flowing through each, it's 15 amps, no matter which way you slice it. Sorry to say, but your sources are incorrect.
I have to agree with SCSInet......It doesn't make any difference how many circuits you break it up on :thinking: Geeeze.....my cost should have gone down then :thinking: :mad:
I have actually 5 separate circuits now in my dedicated fishroom to handle the needs.......I'm even using more efficient pumps on this system......
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Well I dont really know how to explain it any better than the way I did. its simply the nature of electricity, if you run a device of a 4 foot cord its going to be more efficient than the same device on a 40 foot cord because energy is wasted in transmission. even though the device is only using 15amps its taking 16to get 15 amps at the device. by running a higher load on a given line you increase the inefficiency of the power transmission through the line.
but its a moot point believe it if you want dont if you dont but myself I am going to make sure I dont over load circuts and keep the running of extension cords and such to a minimum.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
maybe thiswill help clarify it a little.
In household wiring good design requires that wire size be sufficient to keep power dissipation within limits so that the wiring will not be overheated. In a given wire, the power dissipation is a function of the current. The maximum safe current for a given conductor is known as ampacity. Ampacity is independent of the length of the conductor and the supplied voltage; it has only to do with conductor composition (for example, copper or aluminum), the area of the conductor, and ambient conditions (such as insulating materials on the wire, hottest ambient temperature along the wire, the temperature and voltage rating of the insulation in the given environment, the geometery of the installation, and so on). The circuits are protected by overcurrent devices to prevent exceeding the rated ampacity. However, this is only the first consideration when selecting conductor sizes for applications.
The second consideration, often neglected by well-meaning homeowners installing their own electrical circuits, is the voltage drop for a given circuit and load. As already discussed in this article, voltage drop through a conductor depends in part upon the total net resistivity of the conductor, which in turn depends upon the total length of the conductor. Circuit loads (toasters, televisions, and so forth) have supplied to them a voltage equal to the originally induced voltage at the circuit panel (nominally 120 V in North America or 220 V in Europe) minus the voltage drop across the supplying conductor.
The National Electric Code recommends (not requires) that no more than 5% voltage drop in feeder + branch circuit wiring provides reasonable efficiency of operation.
Exact wording from Art 210-19(A)(1), FPN No. 4: "Conductors for branch circuits as defined in Article 100, sized to prevent a voltage drop exceeding 3 percent at the farthest outlet of power, heating, and lighting loads, or combinations of such loads, and where the maximum voltage drop on both feeders and branch circuits to the farthest outlet does not exceed 5 percent, provide reasonable efficiency of operation. See FPN No.2 of 215.2(A)(3) for voltage drop on feeder conductors."
While for a lightbulb a large voltage drop will result in a harmless condition of slightly less bright light being produced, incorrect voltages induced onto delicate circuitry (as for example in a DVD player, computer, and so forth) may quite easily result in an electrically damaging condition. It is quite easy to have a circuit well within the ampacity guidelines for its wiring, but whose voltage drop is too large.
For these reasons, it is wise to size wiring not only for the total current to be drawn, but also to insure that the net voltage drop on the branch/single circuit conductor shall not exceed 3%, or 5% total for a feeder and the branch. This is particularly the case when running long lengths of wire from one end of a house or to an outbuilding. An outbuilding/shed at twenty meters from your circuit panel to which you intend to draw ten amperes should not, for example, be serviced by 14 AWG wire (whose ampacity is nonetheless well over your ten ampere intention) due to the voltage drop. In such cases, it is wise, to use larger, more expensive wire.
 

reefeel

Member
Mine cost $8000. The lights alone were $2000. My 400 pounds of live rock was only $1200 so look around for deals.
 

scrapman

Member
KWH costs are going up...
In (Montgomery co. MD) it went + 38 % in one year (2006-2007).
It is not over!
I just have a 90 gal... but I can see (and pay) the difference...
 

taznut

Active Member
Originally Posted by xnikki118x
My light bill jumped by 35 bucks when I installed a single 250-watt metal halide bulb.
i think i will stick with my PC's if this is true...
 

psusocr1

Active Member
only one way to describe large tanks
YOU GOTTA PAY TO PLAY!!!
and as my avatar says .. play on everyone!
 

scsinet

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
maybe thiswill help clarify it a little.
Obviously we shouldn't turn this thread into an entirely different topic, but your own research contradicts your conclusions from it.
You are saying that an overloaded circuit will consume more power to deliver the power to the device.
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
even though the device is only using 15amps its taking 16to get 15 amps at the device.

But on the other hand, you are posting, as evidence of this claim, NEC documentation which states that the net effect of voltage drop is performance related, not consumption related.
Originally Posted by reefkprZ

While for a lightbulb a large voltage drop will result in a harmless condition of slightly less bright light being produced, incorrect voltages induced onto delicate circuitry (as for example in a DVD player, computer, and so forth) may quite easily result in an electrically damaging condition.
The NEC documentation is right. When the conductor is undersized, given it's load AND length, voltage drop results, nobody is disputing that. Where I am suggesting that you are not accurate in your conclusion in that voltage drop doesn't cause an increase in current consumed. It's simple Ohm's law (and trust me, Ohm's law applies in the real world and doesn't simply look good on paper). Ohm's law states that current (I) is equal to Volage (V) / Resistance (R). The reason that conductors are upsized over long distances is not due to heating (though that is also an effect), but rather resistance. A 1000ft conductor carrying 15 amps will not experience any rise in temperature above what a 1 foot conductor of the same size (gauge) carrying the same current. The difference is that over 1000 feet, the resistance adds up and voltage drop increases.
Ergo, if you have a motor (in this example, we'll ignore power factor, real vs. apparent power, etc concepts associated with magnetic loads) with a resistance of 100 ohms, at 120 volts it will draw 1.2 amps. You have it connected to a 15 amp circuit, wired with the standard 14 gauge wire. The total length of the circuit, from the break itself to the motor's windings is 100 feet. Chapter 9, table 8 of the 1999 NEC lists 14 gauge wire as having a resistance of .00314 ohms per foot, or 0.314 ohms per 100 feet. That makes the total circuit resistance 100.314 ohms, which makes the total circuit draw now equal to 1.19 amps. Ergo, the motor gets LESS power, and the total circuit draws LESS power. In this case, given Ohm's law again (in this case, Voltage (V) = Amps (I) * Resistance (R)) the voltage drop of 120 volts across .314 ohms of transmission loss is 0.3768 volts, or 0.314%.
Apply that same formula to a fully loaded 15 amp branch circuit and you get 4.71 volts, or 3.925%. In this case, you are exceeding the 3% rule for branch circuits, and upsizing might be appropriate. This is what I believe you are trying to say, and I'm certainly not disagreeing with you that the voltage drop can cause a performance issue. Where I disagree is that a circuit with these parameters loaded in this way will consume MORE power, when in fact it consumes LESS, and even LESS is delivered to the equipment (which causes a whole other host of problems, especially with motors). I also content that most residential circuits are not 100 feet long.
Ok so long (very long) story short, what I'm saying is that fully loading your circuits with them at the same time being excessively long causes power you would have consumed anyway in the equipment to be wasted in transmission, but it does not cause the circuit to draw more than it would have had it been properly sized. It only causes power which you want to end up being consumed by the equipment to be consumed in transmission instead, so what we are talking about here is efficiency, not power usage.
So in the above example of
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
even though the device is only using 15amps its taking 16to get 15 amps at the device.
the circuit never takes up 16 amps, it takes up the same 15 amps (actually slightly less), and 15 amps never makes it to the device.
 
B

bonita69

Guest
Originally Posted by caleigh05
I heard somewhere you should figure around $40 per gal now if thats right or not iam not too sure
that sounds about right, I spent around $3200 so far on my 92 corner, and I only have 4 corals, one fish eating butt (AKA- green carpet) and a few fish.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
Obviously we shouldn't turn this thread into an entirely different topic, but your own research contradicts your conclusions from it.
You are saying that an overloaded circuit will consume more power to deliver the power to the device.
But on the other hand, you are posting, as evidence of this claim, NEC documentation which states that the net effect of voltage drop is performance related, not consumption related.
The NEC documentation is right. When the conductor is undersized, given it's load AND length, voltage drop results, nobody is disputing that. Where I am suggesting that you are not accurate in your conclusion in that voltage drop doesn't cause an increase in current consumed. It's simple Ohm's law (and trust me, Ohm's law applies in the real world and doesn't simply look good on paper). Ohm's law states that current (I) is equal to Volage (V) / Resistance (R). The reason that conductors are upsized over long distances is not due to heating (though that is also an effect), but rather resistance. A 1000ft conductor carrying 15 amps will not experience any rise in temperature above what a 1 foot conductor of the same size (gauge) carrying the same current. The difference is that over 1000 feet, the resistance adds up and voltage drop increases.
Ergo, if you have a motor (in this example, we'll ignore power factor, real vs. apparent power, etc concepts associated with magnetic loads) with a resistance of 100 ohms, at 120 volts it will draw 1.2 amps. You have it connected to a 15 amp circuit, wired with the standard 14 gauge wire. The total length of the circuit, from the break itself to the motor's windings is 100 feet. Chapter 9, table 8 of the 1999 NEC lists 14 gauge wire as having a resistance of .00314 ohms per foot, or 0.314 ohms per 100 feet. That makes the total circuit resistance 100.314 ohms, which makes the total circuit draw now equal to 1.19 amps. Ergo, the motor gets LESS power, and the total circuit draws LESS power. In this case, given Ohm's law again (in this case, Voltage (V) = Amps (I) * Resistance (R)) the voltage drop of 120 volts across .314 ohms of transmission loss is 0.3768 volts, or 0.314%.
Apply that same formula to a fully loaded 15 amp branch circuit and you get 4.71 volts, or 3.925%. In this case, you are exceeding the 3% rule for branch circuits, and upsizing might be appropriate. This is what I believe you are trying to say, and I'm certainly not disagreeing with you that the voltage drop can cause a performance issue. Where I disagree is that a circuit with these parameters loaded in this way will consume MORE power, when in fact it consumes LESS, and even LESS is delivered to the equipment (which causes a whole other host of problems, especially with motors). I also content that most residential circuits are not 100 feet long.
Ok so long (very long) story short, what I'm saying is that fully loading your circuits with them at the same time being excessively long causes power you would have consumed anyway in the equipment to be wasted in transmission, but it does not cause the circuit to draw more than it would have had it been properly sized. It only causes power which you want to end up being consumed by the equipment to be consumed in transmission instead, so what we are talking about here is efficiency, not power usage.
So in the above example of
the circuit never takes up 16 amps, it takes up the same 15 amps (actually slightly less), and 15 amps never makes it to the device.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by SCSInet
Obviously we shouldn't turn this thread into an entirely different topic, but your own research contradicts your conclusions from it.
You are saying that an overloaded circuit will consume more power to deliver the power to the device.
But on the other hand, you are posting, as evidence of this claim, NEC documentation which states that the net effect of voltage drop is performance related, not consumption related.
The NEC documentation is right. When the conductor is undersized, given it's load AND length, voltage drop results, nobody is disputing that. Where I am suggesting that you are not accurate in your conclusion in that voltage drop doesn't cause an increase in current consumed. It's simple Ohm's law (and trust me, Ohm's law applies in the real world and doesn't simply look good on paper). Ohm's law states that current (I) is equal to Volage (V) / Resistance (R). The reason that conductors are upsized over long distances is not due to heating (though that is also an effect), but rather resistance. A 1000ft conductor carrying 15 amps will not experience any rise in temperature above what a 1 foot conductor of the same size (gauge) carrying the same current. The difference is that over 1000 feet, the resistance adds up and voltage drop increases.
Ergo, if you have a motor (in this example, we'll ignore power factor, real vs. apparent power, etc concepts associated with magnetic loads) with a resistance of 100 ohms, at 120 volts it will draw 1.2 amps. You have it connected to a 15 amp circuit, wired with the standard 14 gauge wire. The total length of the circuit, from the break itself to the motor's windings is 100 feet. Chapter 9, table 8 of the 1999 NEC lists 14 gauge wire as having a resistance of .00314 ohms per foot, or 0.314 ohms per 100 feet. That makes the total circuit resistance 100.314 ohms, which makes the total circuit draw now equal to 1.19 amps. Ergo, the motor gets LESS power, and the total circuit draws LESS power. In this case, given Ohm's law again (in this case, Voltage (V) = Amps (I) * Resistance (R)) the voltage drop of 120 volts across .314 ohms of transmission loss is 0.3768 volts, or 0.314%.
Apply that same formula to a fully loaded 15 amp branch circuit and you get 4.71 volts, or 3.925%. In this case, you are exceeding the 3% rule for branch circuits, and upsizing might be appropriate. This is what I believe you are trying to say, and I'm certainly not disagreeing with you that the voltage drop can cause a performance issue. Where I disagree is that a circuit with these parameters loaded in this way will consume MORE power, when in fact it consumes LESS, and even LESS is delivered to the equipment (which causes a whole other host of problems, especially with motors). I also content that most residential circuits are not 100 feet long.
Ok so long (very long) story short, what I'm saying is that fully loading your circuits with them at the same time being excessively long causes power you would have consumed anyway in the equipment to be wasted in transmission, but it does not cause the circuit to draw more than it would have had it been properly sized. It only causes power which you want to end up being consumed by the equipment to be consumed in transmission instead, so what we are talking about here is efficiency, not power usage.
So in the above example of
the circuit never takes up 16 amps, it takes up the same 15 amps (actually slightly less), and 15 amps never makes it to the device.

I must say I love it when a debate contains hard facts and I dont mind being proved Wrong, I actually like the fact that you showed me information I over looked/mis-interpreted. I also appreciate it not degrading to an "I'm right your wrong" childish banter that happens so often on boards. I do feel I'm over looking something though, I may get back to you later on this topic SCI,
But in the meantime I conceed that you seem to have a more accurate perspective, Thanks for holding a sensible conversation about the off topic topic.
 
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