$350 to spend.

[fgcu14]

Here's my problem. Not a bad one to have but still a problem non the less. I have saved away about $350 for a new lighting system. With this money what would be the best light I could purchase?

I have a 46 bow and really would like to stay away from the pendant/hang from the cieling bit. I am turning my tank into a reef so the higher wattage the better. Thanks in advance.

 

[scubanoah]

I dont know the exact dimensions of your tank or if you are using a canopy, but a good 250watt MH pendant should work nice for that tank if you are not using a canopy. if you are using one there are many more options. should be able to find one under $350 as well.

 

[jmick]

look at Hel lo lights. com

 

[saltn00b]

nah cause you are looking at chillers for that.
that is a perfect price range for a sick T-5 set up

 

[fgcu14]

what is the diffrence between t-5 and MH?

 

[saltn00b]

well mH is metal halide, they run very hot, and use alot of electricity, but for the biggest projects, nothing penetrates the water for the wattage like the 250 and 400s.
T-5 is the bulb size (diameter ) for flourescent bulbs. they come in T-5, T-8, and T-12. with 5 and 12 most common for aquarium use. These can be NO, normal output, HO, High, VHO Very High. T-5 HO when reflected properly, can put out 300% more light than all of the other options, and can sustain pretty much anything. the bulbs last from 1-2 years, and use alot less electricity, and less heat. its a very popular and growing trend.

 

[scubanoah]

if you have an open top and using a pendant, a chiller is not a must. enough clearance and a fan blowing across the surface is all you need. T5s will probably be enough for what you want to do, PCs are normally enough for what most people do. but if you dont want to limit yourself I would reccomend metal halide.

 

[tx reef]

Originally Posted by saltn00b
well mH is metal halide, they run very hot, and use alot of electricity, but for the biggest projects, nothing penetrates the water for the wattage like the 250 and 400s.
T-5 is the bulb size (diameter ) for flourescent bulbs. they come in T-5, T-8, and T-12. with 5 and 12 most common for aquarium use. These can be NO, normal output, HO, High, VHO Very High. T-5 HO when reflected properly, can put out 300% more light than all of the other options, and can sustain pretty much anything. the bulbs last from 1-2 years, and use alot less electricity, and less heat. its a very popular and growing trend.

Have you ever used MH?
I have 2 - 175 watt MH with 130 watt PC actinics mounted in a DIY canopy. The bulbs are only 8" above the water line and I have NO heat issues. My temperature stays at 81 - 82 degrees. I don't even have any fans running.
I have NO noticeable increase in my electric bill either.
Metal Halides are not for "big projects" as you stated. It is a matter of preference. The MH will give you faster growth. The T5s will let you keep anything you want, but the growth rates will not be as good.
T5s are not as good as MH as some will try to tell you, but they are a suitable alternative.
Besides, you don't get that nice shimmer in the tank with T5s.

 

[joncat24]

for $350 you can get a couple 150 mh and power compact actinic setup in a nice fixture. what are the dimensions width wise on a 46 bow??
http://www.aquatraders.com/index.asp...ROD&ProdID=272

 

[saltn00b]

yes i have a MH and i do not yet have T-5, i dont claim to be an expert on any of them but it is an ongoing debate in many circles as to which is better for the reasons that you have provided, and others. im not going to get into a flame war or anything i was just stating generalities. my 150 HQI IS my water heater but not to the point where i need a chiller. a lot people need them on bigger tanks, but there are always measures to take to cool the tank before getting a chiller.

 

[cgrant]

I have been reading the icecap elect ballast work out very well as far as electric consumption goes, I am also reading that pendants do not have the heat issues that MH have in a canapy, i guess the heat gets trapped in the canapy, thats what i have read online anyway.
I have a 210 and i am planning on making a 6' hanging pendant out of wood that i will be mounting the MH and actinics in.
If i stick with the plan i have now it will have 3-250w MH and 4-96w actinics, unless i change my mind again?

 

[fgcu14]

Well my bowfront is 36in wide and I would not be using a canopy. However I do have a glass top that I would like to continue to use. I have seen pics of lights sitting on legs to raise them off the water abit. Any more info would be greatly appreciated and to those of you who already posted thanks.

 

[saltn00b]

i have never seen the fixtures on leg/stilts on a bow front.

 

[fgcu14]

no not on a bowfront but why couldnt it be done?

 

[jmick]

Originally Posted by TX Reef
Have you ever used MH?
I have 2 - 175 watt MH with 130 watt PC actinics mounted in a DIY canopy. The bulbs are only 8" above the water line and I have NO heat issues. My temperature stays at 81 - 82 degrees. I don't even have any fans running.
I have NO noticeable increase in my electric bill either.
Metal Halides are not for "big projects" as you stated. It is a matter of preference. The MH will give you faster growth. The T5s will let you keep anything you want, but the growth rates will not be as good.
T5s are not as good as MH as some will try to tell you, but they are a suitable alternative.
Besides, you don't get that nice shimmer in the tank with T5s.

Agreed, I have 750 watts of mh over my 125 reef and I have not had an issue with heat. I think having a few fans built into my diy canopy helps. I do not believe for a second that T5 has the same penetration as MH.

 

[joncat24]

the fixtures that sit up on legs work fine on a bow. I used them on my 72 gal bow --no problems at all