40 gal breeder sargassum frogfish/macro algae tank

[Micco28]

I am looking to start up a tank with a sargassum frogish (Histrio histrio) and I was thinking about making it a macro algae planted tank too.The macro algae will let the H. histrio hide, but I want to make sure that the one I've picked out will work. So I was thinking about:

Tank-
40 gal breeder

Animals-
Sargassum Frogfish
Harlequin Serpent Star

Macros-
Blue ochtodes
Maiden's hair
Blue Scroll
Dragon's Breath
Baggy seaweed

Equipment-
Maxijet 900 (2)
Tank cover (sargassum frogfish are known jumpers)
I was thinking about using a Eheim 200w Jager heater, any thoughts?
For lights I was thinking about Finnex FugeRay Planted+ LEDs, any thoughts? Here's a link to the lights:
http://www.aquavibrant.com/lighting/led-fixtures/finnex-fugeray-planted/finnex-fugeray-planted-led-fixture.html
*I know frogfish are heavy bioloaders, but I wasn't planning on using a skimmer because of the macros.

I am planning on using LR and dry rock and 50/50 fine live sand/fine dry sand.

I plan on starting with live foods and then switching to frozen (and I'll be careful to not over feed)

Please let me know if I missed anything or if you have any suggestions

 

[snakeblitz33]

I like your list of macros. I know almost nothing about scorps though. A good filter and some water flow is what you would need. Mixing the sand is fine, and I would suggest going no deeper than 3 inches with the sandbed unless the scorp likes to hide in the sand and requires something specialty.

Macros, especially red macros, like lots and lots of light - both daylight and actinic. You will have to get a pretty decent light, such as a t5HO system to be able to grow the macros you want to keep.

Take your time to cycle the tank without macroalgae, and give the sand and rock some time to grow bacteria and stabilize the pH before adding macroalgae to the system. Add the amount of food to the system that you would to feed your fish and do it once or twice a day (without macroalgae). Test your water parameters and as soon as ammonia and nitrite drop to zero, and nitrate appears, then drop in your algae.

If one of your goals is to grow macroalgae in abundance, I can see a system like this do just fine on dechlorinated tap water, unless you have a high TDS and medications/floride in your city water.

Anyways, that's just a few of my initial thoughts.