A theory about water changes, criticism welcomed(please no flames)

[kyarnkid]

I have a two month old tank and I have yet to do a water change. My water quality is decent( I have a slight showing of ammonia ,.02. My Nitrites, Nitrates, Ph and Alkalinity are all great.)
I have a theory. Since my water quality is decent why should I change the water? I mean aren't you supposed to get your tank as close to a "mini-ocean"(lack of a better word) as possible. So shouldn't change the water tinker with that?
I know that changing water not only helps with lowering Nitrates and Nitrites, but also restores some trace elements in your water.
Does this theory make sense? I understand that this theory might make alot of you think im stupid, but I am still learning. Any good criticism is welcomed, but please no flames. Remeber I am still learning.
Thanks

 

[kyarnkid]

Tang,
My tank looks better everyday and the water looks really nice, thank God for inverts . I just hope the water keeps up looking good.
Thanks Tang for your insight

 

[biggdriver]

The bacteria in the substrate and in the rest of the tank will take careof the ammonia and the nitrites..but eventually you will get a build up of nitrates,,unless you havea dsb and/or live rock setup..any amount of ammonia, nitrites,nitrates in the water over along period of time can damage the gill structure of the fish...and cause stress leading to bacterial infections,,ich etc..You don't have to do a water change every month but make sure you monitor your levels and do them as needed..You shouldn't get a reading of ammonia ina cycled tank unless you are overstocked and or/overfeeding..If that's the case reduce the load and/or make sure water changes are done..Anyone can keep a fish for a few months in bad water...TRY keeping one for a few yrs or more..It is the health of the fish that's at stake

 

[kyarnkid]

Thanks big,
I never knew that about the gill structure, I love learning stuff from here. So water changes help rid ammonia as well?
I do have a DSB, I just think it takes a while for it mature, how long?

 

[mr . salty]

Your tank is WAAAAY to young to even think about water changes yet.Your first one wouldn't even be due yet.Not till the cycle is COMPLEATLY done.That is when the ammo,nitrites are ZERO,and have been for a few weeks.Even then you would wait till the nitrates raise above like 40ppm....And using water changes to rid a tank of ammo,is only in the case of an emergancy.And even then it is nothing more than a bandaid,temperarily covering up the real problem(What is causing these high ammo readings????)Without curing the actual cause of the problem,the ammonia will come back quickly....

 

[kyarnkid]

I know I have a little amonia problem, but it is not high MR. Salty.
It is at .02 on my tests and when do you suggest I do a water change Salty?
Can you give me a time table, I mean I am at 2 months now.
Thanks Salty

 

[mr . salty]

It's impossibe to say.Every tank is diferent.Like I said,wait till you have no ammo or nitrites,and your nitrate is rising.Don't wait too long before you do one though.Nitrates can quickly go from 50ppm to 80 or highr.Then you have a real problem on your hands...I speak from experience here.My tank was steady at 40ppm for a couple months then in two or three weeks it was over 180ppm...Just watch your nitrates,and start thinking/planning one when they go over 40ppm...

 

[kyarnkid]

What is a safe level for nitrates SAlty?
Why do Nitrates increase Salty?

 

[kris walker]

kyarnkid, what is the resolution on your ammonia test kit? Can you reliably say that it is 0.02 and not 0 ppm?
But anyway, it is possible that your tank is done cycling if you have a large bioload that can't be fully handled by your biological filtration. If that is the only reason you have a measureable trace of ammonia, then Mr. Salty's point, although good, is moot.
Keep in mind that some people do not do water changes. They have a roughly complete nitrogen cycle in their tank. And trace elements are replenished through supplements or food.
sam

 

[biggdriver]

Nitrates are the end result of essentially the fish waste and any pollutants in the water..They also can be in the tap water that is used for your tank..If you have a dsb it probably will take a couple of months or more..(is it Bubbling?) to start ridding your tank naturally of nitrates...There are oxygen defiecient bacteria that live in the bottom layer of your sand base that will "feed" on the nitrates and turn them into gas that will dissipate into the air ..That is one reason surface area and surface water movement is critical...the uppper layer of your sand base contains bacteria that will feed on the ammonia,,ie fish waste' and the nitrates..ie broken down ammonia..which is broken down into nitrates...It makes a cycle.. therefore not overloading your tank so your bacteria level can keep up with your fish waste and keeping your feeding to a minimal..That also can be a pollutant..causing high ammonia..when your tank is fully cylcled witha dsb your levels should read close to if not zero..adding to the tank slowly makes sure the bacteria can adjust and multiply to handle the added biological load on the system....The big thing in this hobbby is to make sure not to rush anything...I can definitely speak from experience..

 

[kyarnkid]

Well I have a little gash/crack in the back of the tank in the sand. It goes down about 2 to 3 inches but that is the only spot I see. What is it? Is this the start to my sand bed?

 

[ocellaris_keeper]

As always I agree with Mr. SALTY - sometimes too many water changes slow the tank development process. I have been told by more than one LPS to do water changes when things look or readings are not within optimal condictions.
I knwo of a reef that is using the plenum method in a LPS in Reston Va where they haven't done a water change in three years. they just add trace elements weekly and top off the water in the tank.