About to give up

kender

Member
HEEEELP! I recently switch out my tank from crushed coral to live sand because I was told that was better. I also was having a red algae problem that I figured would go away once I changed everything out and added the two new powerheads. I changed out my lights to a 10k bulb and a blue actinic bulb. Everything was great for about two weeks and now I have an outbreak of red algae occurring again. What am I doing wrong. Is there some sort of algae eater I need to get or what.
Any advise is greatly accepted. Thanks ahead of time.
 

rbrockm1

Active Member
i am having the same problems. If i hear anything i will give you a post. Don't give up, research
 

uberlink

Active Member
How often and how much do you feed? Reduce feedings to every other day or even every three days for a while.
How long are your lights on each day? Consider reducing the length of time by a couple hours or so.
What kind of water are you using? Consider switching to RO/DI water, if you use something else.
How are your phosphates and nitrates? Consider a phosphate reactor for the former. Do more frequent water changes and consider growing some macroalgae in your tank or in a refugium for the latter.
Finally, use a turkey baster to blow the slime free from your rocks and suck it up to dispose of it.
That's what's worked for me.
 

jerthunter

Active Member
Originally Posted by kender
HEEEELP! I recently switch out my tank from crushed coral to live sand because I was told that was better. I also was having a red algae problem that I figured would go away once I changed everything out and added the two new powerheads. I changed out my lights to a 10k bulb and a blue actinic bulb. Everything was great for about two weeks and now I have an outbreak of red algae occurring again. What am I doing wrong. Is there some sort of algae eater I need to get or what.
Any advise is greatly accepted. Thanks ahead of time.
From my experience red slime remover is a wonderful thing. Now many people may say not to use red slime remover because if you don't deal with the cause of the red slime it will just come back. I however found it nearly impossible to rid my tank of red slime algae just by controlling water quality until I used the red slime remover. Once the red slime is gone just make sure you keep good water quality and growing some macro algae in your tank would probably help to keep the red slime from coming back. That is my opinion.
 

merredeth

Active Member
Originally Posted by kender
HEEEELP! I recently switch out my tank from crushed coral to live sand because I was told that was better. I also was having a red algae problem that I figured would go away once I changed everything out and added the two new powerheads. I changed out my lights to a 10k bulb and a blue actinic bulb. Everything was great for about two weeks and now I have an outbreak of red algae occurring again. What am I doing wrong. Is there some sort of algae eater I need to get or what.
Any advise is greatly accepted. Thanks ahead of time.
Chemi-Clean will help if you want to go with tank medication route, but it still doesn't solve the mystery as to WHY you had the problem.
Denise M.
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Merredeth is correct can you give more specifics on your tank....Water parameters, feeding habit, lighing regimen, RO/DI water for water changes......We just need more information.....
 

kaseykagan

Member
DO NOT USE SLIME REMOVER PLEEEEEEASE!!!!!! We used it and it caused major problems in our tank. It wiped out the red slime but also everything else that was beneficial in our tank. We were about 5 months getting over it.
When you do water changes just syphone it out with the hose. Keep on top of it and eventually you will beat it!! Just like getting weeds out of your lawn. Manual labour works much better than chemicals!!!
 

cymbal67

Member
try a phos-reactor it is a multi-purpose fitler that you can hang off the side of the sump or tank. it filters out several things depending on the media (filter) you put in it....get the phosphate removing filter. that should help remove it. red algea loves phosphates, removing phosphates should help. but i am still kinda new to all this. but it made sense to me after researching it. i just added one to my fuge.
 

saltn00b

Active Member
the few times i have seen Cyano it was due to lack of Flow. make sure you have enough ph's and total turnover rate should be 10x-20x the tank volume.
this is the most over looked reason - and 90% of the time the answer.
all of those other things will help but make the adjustments after checking and changing flow first.
take the appearance of cyano as nature's way of telling you that something is not 100% right with your tank, not a sign to give up.
 

merredeth

Active Member
Originally Posted by kaseykagan
DO NOT USE SLIME REMOVER PLEEEEEEASE!!!!!! We used it and it caused major problems in our tank. It wiped out the red slime but also everything else that was beneficial in our tank. We were about 5 months getting over it...
Actually, I have recommended Chemi Clean and so has my LFS and people seem to have very good results.
While I hate using chemicals and make it my last resort, your ideas are good as well. However if all else seems to fail, I'll still recommend Chemi Clean.
Denise M.
 

kender

Member
Specifics on the tank:
The tank is a 55g long
It has 2 Emperor 400 filters on back
It has 2 powerheads located on each end of the tank to create a circular current (210gph rating each) I will try to do a little diagram below.
I feed the four little fishies I have every other day and only enough flakes for them to gobble up within 2 - 3 minutes.
The light is usually on from 11am - 11pm using a 10k and an actinic bulb
I have been using tap water but when I check my levels with trates and trites an ph everything is checking out okay.
I have two basket filters for my emperors that I have nothing in at the moment.
The filters DO have the standard media filters as well as bio-wheels and also have to cartridges that I dont remember what they are called but look like very porous pumice stone at first glance.
I only do a water change about once a month because I dont really know how to mix up my water myself and I hate paying for water from my lfs. I do top off my tank with about 2 - 3 gallons every week.
The temp in my tank fluctuates a little between 76 degrees and 79 degrees but I still fine tuning the heater.
Ummm. I cant think of anything else. Let me know if there is anything that I missed.
Top View of Tank Front View of Tank

[hr]

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|.....EMP.....EMP......<| |......EMP........EMP.....|
|..............................| |..............................|
|..............................| |..............................|
|>............................| |>.........................<|

[hr]

[hr]
> = Power head
Thanks again!
 

acrylic51

Active Member
Chemi Clean is a very good product at what it does........I've never heard any issues about it wiping out everything beneficial unless the instructions weren't precisely followed????
 

merredeth

Active Member
Originally Posted by kender
Specifics on the tank:
The tank is a 55g long
It has 2 Emperor 400 filters on back
It has 2 powerheads located on each end of the tank to create a circular current (210gph rating each) I will try to do a little diagram below.
I feed the four little fishies I have every other day and only enough flakes for them to gobble up within 2 - 3 minutes.
The light is usually on from 11am - 11pm using a 10k and an actinic bulb
I have been using tap water but when I check my levels with trates and trites an ph everything is checking out okay.
I have two basket filters for my emperors that I have nothing in at the moment.
The filters DO have the standard media filters as well as bio-wheels and also have to cartridges that I dont remember what they are called but look like very porous pumice stone at first glance.
I only do a water change about once a month because I dont really know how to mix up my water myself and I hate paying for water from my lfs. I do top off my tank with about 2 - 3 gallons every week.
The temp in my tank fluctuates a little between 76 degrees and 79 degrees but I still fine tuning the heater.
Ummm. I cant think of anything else. Let me know if there is anything that I missed.
Top View of Tank Front View of Tank

[hr]

[hr]
| EMP EMP <| | EMP EMP |
| | | |
| | | |
|> | |> <|

[hr]

[hr]
> = Power head
Thanks again!
Water parameters are something you should be posting. Post those test results and we can look at what is out of whack. Saying they are okay is not helping us.
Also, water changes should be weekly or every other week. I do 10% per week and if I get behind on water changes then it is automatically 20% if two weeks have passed by.
Also quit using tap water. You can go to Walmart and for about .35¢ a gallon you can get RO water for the top offs. You'd be amazed at the junk you add with tap water top offs.
I also feed my fish daily, the only difference is that I divide my food that would be for one feeding and add it a couple times a day. Generally, I feed about twice a day. Less wasted food and the fish eat what is put in without losing it in the substrate.
I think your lighting is on too long, that is my personal opinion. Lower it to about 10 hours per day rather than 12.
Just some thoughts...
Denise M.
 

merredeth

Active Member
Originally Posted by acrylic51
Chemi Clean is a very good product at what it does........I've never heard any issues about it wiping out everything beneficial unless the instructions weren't precisely followed????
That's why I like it. No problems that I have EVER heard of from anyone.
My LFS knows his stuff and has even recommended it to people on this board and they have had good results.
Denise M.
 

joncat24

Active Member
sounds to me as it is a combination of tap water and monthly watre changes...Definitley dont use tap....way too many minerals use ro/di water and do your water cahnges and all should be fine in a few weeks.
 

rusting

Member
Good water flow, and weekly water changes of 25% will go a long way, and save you a lot of headaches. Always use RO/DI water.
 

michaeltx

Moderator
ALL tap water has phosphates in it phosphates create algae and bacterial blooms there is NO way around this. My suggestion would be a RO/DI unit to remove it before it gets added to your tank.
as far as chemi-clean it is a great product but has to followed exact as to what the package says and really only as a last resort and it can wipe out the tank if it isnt used exactly like the package recomends the slightest mis calaculation can be detrmental to the tank. any chemicals added to the tank will stay in the tank till something either uses it or its exported out by water change.
in the case of tap you are taking out bad chemicals and compounds each time but you add in new and fresh compounds when you readd tap back in.
Do you have a phosphate test to see what your readings are on that>
Mike
 

michaeltx

Moderator
On a tap water note I forgot. if you go to the EPA website and find your area you can see what levels of everything is in the water everything from phosphates flouride, arsenic, iron, mercury and many many other things that are bad but the goverment says is OK is small amounts the amounts are fine for us but can kill a .5oz fish quickly
 
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