deejeff442
Active Member
the ich that killed my fish came in on a coral.the fish were in the tank for 6 months then i added a couple corals.
Achilles Tang - Awesome FISH!!!!
- Thread starter tannersmith200
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tannersmith200
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by deejeff442 http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3363938
the ich that killed my fish came in on a coral.the fish were in the tank for 6 months then i added a couple corals.
Thats awful bro. Sorry to hear that. I use RX Coral Dip, I assume it kills all those unwanted pests considering I have not had an outbreak of anything damaging in a long time
Originally Posted by deejeff442 http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3363938
the ich that killed my fish came in on a coral.the fish were in the tank for 6 months then i added a couple corals.
Thats awful bro. Sorry to hear that. I use RX Coral Dip, I assume it kills all those unwanted pests considering I have not had an outbreak of anything damaging in a long time
srfisher17
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by tannersmith200 http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3363957
Coral dips kill pests that bother coral. There are stages of ich that can be on coral that are not killed by dips. Unless 100% sure that corals have been at least 8 weeks in water that is fish free----the coral should QTd. Many LFS have corals and fish on the same system and those corals could carry ich into your system. There is no dip that will kill all phases of ich.
Thats awful bro. Sorry to hear that. I use RX Coral Dip, I assume it kills all those unwanted pests considering I have not had an outbreak of anything damaging in a long time
Originally Posted by tannersmith200 http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3363957
Coral dips kill pests that bother coral. There are stages of ich that can be on coral that are not killed by dips. Unless 100% sure that corals have been at least 8 weeks in water that is fish free----the coral should QTd. Many LFS have corals and fish on the same system and those corals could carry ich into your system. There is no dip that will kill all phases of ich.
Thats awful bro. Sorry to hear that. I use RX Coral Dip, I assume it kills all those unwanted pests considering I have not had an outbreak of anything damaging in a long time
srfisher17
Active Member
Coral dips kill pests that bother coral. There are stages of ich that can be on coral that are not killed by dips. Unless 100% sure that corals have been at least 8 weeks in water that is fish free----the coral should QTd. Many LFS have corals and fish on the same system and those corals could carry ich into your system. There is no dip that will kill all phases of ich.
tangs rule
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by srfisher17 http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3364095
Coral dips kill pests that bother coral. There are stages of ich that can be on coral that are not killed by dips. Unless 100% sure that corals have been at least 8 weeks in water that is fish free----the coral should QTd. Many LFS have corals and fish on the same system and those corals could carry ich into your system. There is no dip that will kill all phases of ich.
+100
Originally Posted by srfisher17 http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3364095
Coral dips kill pests that bother coral. There are stages of ich that can be on coral that are not killed by dips. Unless 100% sure that corals have been at least 8 weeks in water that is fish free----the coral should QTd. Many LFS have corals and fish on the same system and those corals could carry ich into your system. There is no dip that will kill all phases of ich.
+100
florida joe
Well-Known Member
IMO I would wait a little longer them to weeks to check for ick. Add an air stone to your QT if you can and again IMO it is very important when you QT a tang to look for the first signs of head and lateral line erosion
tangs rule
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3364129
IMO I would wait a little longer them to weeks to check for ick. Add an air stone to your QT if you can and again IMO it is very important when you QT a tang to look for the first signs of head and lateral line erosion
The OP (cams) first problem is the fish may not be eating.......If it refuses to eat, it will die pretty soon, and never survive Qtine whether hypo or copper or combo treatment......His fish might respond to somthing I did only once (on a hippo), by syringe force feeding some ground up food 2x a day for a week....This was when I netted him, placed him on a washcloth, and gently put the long small tip of a 1cc syringe in his mouth and squrited some food into his gut...One has to have some internal knowledge of tangs, and kinda how far to push things - but when I get a tang, i'll walk thru hell for him, and force him to come along..the process did work that time, and I saved a hippo the LFS wanted $40 for, but got him for 10 bucks (no promises) as he was near dead when I took him home
An airstone/small pump is never a bad idea in Qtine.....
and HLLE takes months to show up - not days/weeks......HLLE is a sign of malnutrition & stress over months, which results in a deterioration of the skin/flesh on the head and lateral lines of a tang..Malnutirition and or stress is usually the culprit...... starvation results in pinched belly and death within 2-3 weeks......
I forgot to mention to the OP - but I never Qtine a tang alone....I'll even buy a damsel r 2 to put in with him from the lfs, so the tang is never the only fish in a Qtine tank....and return the damsels to the lfs when the tang comes out of Qtine.......though it may be too late to use this data though....my bad & apologies to cam - I've been out of the tang Qtine business for a while (cause i've too many) - but as a general rule with any larger fish, i'll always put another small dude or 2 in with it, just so it is not alone..I see better survival rates this way, as there is less stress on the primary fish, and a better chance of him eating regulary..
And I know the OP is upset about getting a tang that likely arrived with Ich, but IME - that's what one must expect/plan for/and treat.......all tangs and esp. blues are ich magnets, and in ALL the online & LFS places I've seen or bought from /been inside - they all run multiple holding / display tanks that are interconnected (share water) and it is NOT possible for them to rid parasitic infections from them.....They'd have to do what WE do.......Qtine/hypo/copper/ then isolate/sperate & have seperate tanks for New arrivals and older stocks......that'll never happen as new arrivals to distributers like swf/***********/others/lfs will likely always go right into older stocks, and since fish are always present - and they can't treat ich, cause they mix fish/corals/inverts - or at least they all share water, and hypo or copper would kill off most everything they own......worse it only takes 1 contaminated drop of water to begin a new ich lifecycle in a tank with a fish in it. And ALL the new fish arivals from the Pacific ocean or Atlantic will have somthing - cause they likely shared holding tank space overseas even b4 they got to the USA.
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3364129
IMO I would wait a little longer them to weeks to check for ick. Add an air stone to your QT if you can and again IMO it is very important when you QT a tang to look for the first signs of head and lateral line erosion
The OP (cams) first problem is the fish may not be eating.......If it refuses to eat, it will die pretty soon, and never survive Qtine whether hypo or copper or combo treatment......His fish might respond to somthing I did only once (on a hippo), by syringe force feeding some ground up food 2x a day for a week....This was when I netted him, placed him on a washcloth, and gently put the long small tip of a 1cc syringe in his mouth and squrited some food into his gut...One has to have some internal knowledge of tangs, and kinda how far to push things - but when I get a tang, i'll walk thru hell for him, and force him to come along..the process did work that time, and I saved a hippo the LFS wanted $40 for, but got him for 10 bucks (no promises) as he was near dead when I took him home
An airstone/small pump is never a bad idea in Qtine.....
and HLLE takes months to show up - not days/weeks......HLLE is a sign of malnutrition & stress over months, which results in a deterioration of the skin/flesh on the head and lateral lines of a tang..Malnutirition and or stress is usually the culprit...... starvation results in pinched belly and death within 2-3 weeks......
I forgot to mention to the OP - but I never Qtine a tang alone....I'll even buy a damsel r 2 to put in with him from the lfs, so the tang is never the only fish in a Qtine tank....and return the damsels to the lfs when the tang comes out of Qtine.......though it may be too late to use this data though....my bad & apologies to cam - I've been out of the tang Qtine business for a while (cause i've too many) - but as a general rule with any larger fish, i'll always put another small dude or 2 in with it, just so it is not alone..I see better survival rates this way, as there is less stress on the primary fish, and a better chance of him eating regulary..
And I know the OP is upset about getting a tang that likely arrived with Ich, but IME - that's what one must expect/plan for/and treat.......all tangs and esp. blues are ich magnets, and in ALL the online & LFS places I've seen or bought from /been inside - they all run multiple holding / display tanks that are interconnected (share water) and it is NOT possible for them to rid parasitic infections from them.....They'd have to do what WE do.......Qtine/hypo/copper/ then isolate/sperate & have seperate tanks for New arrivals and older stocks......that'll never happen as new arrivals to distributers like swf/***********/others/lfs will likely always go right into older stocks, and since fish are always present - and they can't treat ich, cause they mix fish/corals/inverts - or at least they all share water, and hypo or copper would kill off most everything they own......worse it only takes 1 contaminated drop of water to begin a new ich lifecycle in a tank with a fish in it. And ALL the new fish arivals from the Pacific ocean or Atlantic will have somthing - cause they likely shared holding tank space overseas even b4 they got to the USA.
tannersmith200
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangs rule http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3364289
The OP (cams) first problem is the fish may not be eating.......If it refuses to eat, it will die pretty soon, and never survive Qtine whether hypo or copper or combo treatment......His fish might respond to somthing I did only once (on a hippo), by syringe force feeding some ground up food 2x a day for a week....This was when I netted him, placed him on a washcloth, and gently put the long small tip of a 1cc syringe in his mouth and squrited some food into his gut...One has to have some internal knowledge of tangs, and kinda how far to push things - but when I get a tang, i'll walk thru hell for him, and force him to come along..the process did work that time, and I saved a hippo the LFS wanted $40 for, but got him for 10 bucks (no promises) as he was near dead when I took him home
An airstone/small pump is never a bad idea in Qtine.....
and HLLE takes months to show up - not days/weeks......HLLE is a sign of malnutrition & stress over months, which results in a deterioration of the skin/flesh on the head and lateral lines of a tang..Malnutirition and or stress is usually the culprit...... starvation results in pinched belly and death within 2-3 weeks......
I forgot to mention to the OP - but I never Qtine a tang alone....I'll even buy a damsel r 2 to put in with him from the lfs, so the tang is never the only fish in a Qtine tank....and return the damsels to the lfs when the tang comes out of Qtine.......though it may be too late to use this data though....my bad & apologies to cam - I've been out of the tang Qtine business for a while (cause i've too many) - but as a general rule with any larger fish, i'll always put another small dude or 2 in with it, just so it is not alone..I see better survival rates this way, as there is less stress on the primary fish, and a better chance of him eating regulary..
And I know the OP is upset about getting a tang that likely arrived with Ich, but IME - that's what one must expect/plan for/and treat.......all tangs and esp. blues are ich magnets, and in ALL the online & LFS places I've seen or bought from /been inside - they all run multiple holding / display tanks that are interconnected (share water) and it is NOT possible for them to rid parasitic infections from them.....They'd have to do what WE do.......Qtine/hypo/copper/ then isolate/sperate & have seperate tanks for New arrivals and older stocks......that'll never happen as new arrivals to distributers like swf/***********/others/lfs will likely always go right into older stocks, and since fish are always present - and they can't treat ich, cause they mix fish/corals/inverts - or at least they all share water, and hypo or copper would kill off most everything they own......worse it only takes 1 contaminated drop of water to begin a new ich lifecycle in a tank with a fish in it. And ALL the new fish arivals from the Pacific ocean or Atlantic will have somthing - cause they likely shared holding tank space overseas even b4 they got to the USA.
so would you give your tang blood if he needed it? hahahaha j/k
Originally Posted by tangs rule http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3364289
The OP (cams) first problem is the fish may not be eating.......If it refuses to eat, it will die pretty soon, and never survive Qtine whether hypo or copper or combo treatment......His fish might respond to somthing I did only once (on a hippo), by syringe force feeding some ground up food 2x a day for a week....This was when I netted him, placed him on a washcloth, and gently put the long small tip of a 1cc syringe in his mouth and squrited some food into his gut...One has to have some internal knowledge of tangs, and kinda how far to push things - but when I get a tang, i'll walk thru hell for him, and force him to come along..the process did work that time, and I saved a hippo the LFS wanted $40 for, but got him for 10 bucks (no promises) as he was near dead when I took him home
An airstone/small pump is never a bad idea in Qtine.....
and HLLE takes months to show up - not days/weeks......HLLE is a sign of malnutrition & stress over months, which results in a deterioration of the skin/flesh on the head and lateral lines of a tang..Malnutirition and or stress is usually the culprit...... starvation results in pinched belly and death within 2-3 weeks......
I forgot to mention to the OP - but I never Qtine a tang alone....I'll even buy a damsel r 2 to put in with him from the lfs, so the tang is never the only fish in a Qtine tank....and return the damsels to the lfs when the tang comes out of Qtine.......though it may be too late to use this data though....my bad & apologies to cam - I've been out of the tang Qtine business for a while (cause i've too many) - but as a general rule with any larger fish, i'll always put another small dude or 2 in with it, just so it is not alone..I see better survival rates this way, as there is less stress on the primary fish, and a better chance of him eating regulary..
And I know the OP is upset about getting a tang that likely arrived with Ich, but IME - that's what one must expect/plan for/and treat.......all tangs and esp. blues are ich magnets, and in ALL the online & LFS places I've seen or bought from /been inside - they all run multiple holding / display tanks that are interconnected (share water) and it is NOT possible for them to rid parasitic infections from them.....They'd have to do what WE do.......Qtine/hypo/copper/ then isolate/sperate & have seperate tanks for New arrivals and older stocks......that'll never happen as new arrivals to distributers like swf/***********/others/lfs will likely always go right into older stocks, and since fish are always present - and they can't treat ich, cause they mix fish/corals/inverts - or at least they all share water, and hypo or copper would kill off most everything they own......worse it only takes 1 contaminated drop of water to begin a new ich lifecycle in a tank with a fish in it. And ALL the new fish arivals from the Pacific ocean or Atlantic will have somthing - cause they likely shared holding tank space overseas even b4 they got to the USA.
so would you give your tang blood if he needed it? hahahaha j/k
tannersmith200
Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3364129
IMO I would wait a little longer them to weeks to check for ick. Add an air stone to your QT if you can and again IMO it is very important when you QT a tang to look for the first signs of head and lateral line erosion
The HOB filter mixes enuff O2 into the water column since I keep my water level slightly low for there to be visible air bubbles. He has no HLLE, really healthy. Just fed him a minute ago, he couldnt wait for me to attach the clip to the tank. he eats out of hand directly. He has a voracious appitite.
I am going to QT him for 3 weeks as long as continues to eat like he does and shows no sign of stress or infestations. A little 10g QT is better than nothing but a little small for a 2.5" fish, especially a tang.
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3364129
IMO I would wait a little longer them to weeks to check for ick. Add an air stone to your QT if you can and again IMO it is very important when you QT a tang to look for the first signs of head and lateral line erosion
The HOB filter mixes enuff O2 into the water column since I keep my water level slightly low for there to be visible air bubbles. He has no HLLE, really healthy. Just fed him a minute ago, he couldnt wait for me to attach the clip to the tank. he eats out of hand directly. He has a voracious appitite.
I am going to QT him for 3 weeks as long as continues to eat like he does and shows no sign of stress or infestations. A little 10g QT is better than nothing but a little small for a 2.5" fish, especially a tang.
florida joe
Well-Known Member
Quote:
and HLLE takes months to show up - not days/weeks......HLLE is a sign of malnutrition & stress over months, which results in a deterioration of the skin/flesh on the head and lateral lines of a tang..Malnutirition and or stress is usually the culprit...... starvation results in pinched belly and death within 2-3 weeks......
For my own benefit can you post some published information on the time line you state for head and lateral line erosion. Also are you stating that there is no truth to the theory’s that stray voltage, poor water quality, environmental conditions, high nitrate levels, carbon and a protozoan can cause it
and HLLE takes months to show up - not days/weeks......HLLE is a sign of malnutrition & stress over months, which results in a deterioration of the skin/flesh on the head and lateral lines of a tang..Malnutirition and or stress is usually the culprit...... starvation results in pinched belly and death within 2-3 weeks......
For my own benefit can you post some published information on the time line you state for head and lateral line erosion. Also are you stating that there is no truth to the theory’s that stray voltage, poor water quality, environmental conditions, high nitrate levels, carbon and a protozoan can cause it
tannersmith200
Member
HLLE
Stray voltage is impossible for my tanks - GFCI takes that out of consideration.
I also use carbon - my juv queen angel has/had HLLE, bec he was QT'd for almost 2 months but now he is in DT an the HLLE is slowly going away. His colors have never been so bright.
Stress, poor water quality, poor nutrition, and paracites are the main culprits I do believe.
Stray voltage is impossible for my tanks - GFCI takes that out of consideration.
I also use carbon - my juv queen angel has/had HLLE, bec he was QT'd for almost 2 months but now he is in DT an the HLLE is slowly going away. His colors have never been so bright.
Stress, poor water quality, poor nutrition, and paracites are the main culprits I do believe.
srfisher17
Active Member
Quote:
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3364338
Yeah; I don't think a definitive cause for HLLE has ever been proved; lots of theories, like Joe said, but even the published experts don't agree on a cause.
Originally Posted by florida joe http:///forum/thread/384067/achilles-tang-awesome-fish/20#post_3364338
Yeah; I don't think a definitive cause for HLLE has ever been proved; lots of theories, like Joe said, but even the published experts don't agree on a cause.