adding acrylic baffles to glass sump

bkvreef

Member
Can it be done?
I'm going to get a 75 to 55g for my sump and I want to add baffles.
Is there an easy way to do this.
 

bkvreef

Member
Is there a certain thickness that would be best for the plexiglass?
Any easy way of cutting them(without having to purchase a whole variety of tools? A knife is not easy (I've tried).
 

tropills

Member
depending how thick it is you can score it on both sides and snap it in half or you can cut it with a hack saw blade, circular saw with a extra fine blade installed backwards. just normal thickness I believe it's 1/8th inch thick will be fine.
 
D

dennis210

Guest
Go with 1/4 inch plexi. or just use glass it's cheaper. The glass has to be cut exact however, the plexi can be modified to fit with an electric sander!
 

joncat24

Active Member
if you decide you want some acrylic pieces cut, let me know. I have a bunch of cast acrylic sheets extra that I can cut ya some for a reasonable price.
I have cut some for other members on here and shipped em before.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by tropills
http:///forum/post/2596007
silicone them in , nothing to it.

silicone wont hold long term as it does not properly bond to plastics, the baffels will be prone to faliure in the liong run.
OP
use glass baffels in a glass tank, then you can silicone them in no problem.
 
you can use any normal power saw to cut them. i was able to cut .22 inch with my dads table saw and not damage the blade. also, if you go to lowes or home depot (i forgot which, maybe both), they will cut it for you on-site
 

hurt

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/2596966
silicone wont hold long term as it does not properly bond to plastics, the baffels will be prone to faliure in the liong run.
OP
use glass baffels in a glass tank, then you can silicone them in no problem.
I've had my fuge for almost 5 years now. I used acrylic baffles in a glass tank and I have a 1 inch drop on the last baffle to my return pump. So needless to say this baffle has some pressure on it. I've never had any problems at all with any of my 3 baffles. As long as you use enough silicone, you will not have any issues. This is where I believe some people run into problems.
 

fats71

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/2596966
silicone wont hold long term as it does not properly bond to plastics, the baffels will be prone to faliure in the liong run.
OP
use glass baffels in a glass tank, then you can silicone them in no problem.

They make a specific adherent now for this so it is no longer the way it used to be and actually is supposed to bond better than glass on glass.
 

reefforbrains

Active Member
Weld-on 1001 will bond acrylic to glass no problem. Available at most any plastic shops.
To cut the acrylic use a tablesaw. Fighting with a circ blade on smaller pieces is not advised.
 

fats71

Active Member
Originally Posted by ReefForBrains
http:///forum/post/2597257
Weld-on 1001 will bond acrylic to glass no problem. Available at most any plastic shops.
To cut the acrylic use a tablesaw. Fighting with a circ blade on smaller pieces is not advised.
Thats the stuff weld on 1001 :) thanks.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Hurt
http:///forum/post/2597099
I've had my fuge for almost 5 years now. I used acrylic baffles in a glass tank and I have a 1 inch drop on the last baffle to my return pump. So needless to say this baffle has some pressure on it. I've never had any problems at all with any of my 3 baffles. As long as you use enough silicone, you will not have any issues. This is where I believe some people run into problems.
well I suppose thats true, if you want to goop enough on it, it may hold. I personally like to keep my silicone lines looking like my tank corners, thin and discrete. as proffesional looking as a hack like me can manage. I like to use the right products for the application, and not chance possible faliure, sometimes like in your case it works, sometimes it doesnt (my first sump). after watching all of my baffels come loose over the course of 2 years I finnally figured out why they werent holding. the bond strenght isnt there. if you have enough the pressure doesnt mind the bond as the bond with the glass is plenty and the pressure makes the silicone act like a rubber washer/gasket keeping it sealed but not really a true bond. I cant make myself reccomend an improper application to some one else even if it sometimes works, because chances are it may not work for them.
 

fats71

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/2598749
well I suppose thats true, if you want to goop enough on it, it may hold. I personally like to keep my silicone lines looking like my tank corners, thin and discrete. as proffesional looking as a hack like me can manage. I like to use the right products for the application, and not chance possible faliure, sometimes like in your case it works, sometimes it doesnt (my first sump). after watching all of my baffels come loose over the course of 2 years I finnally figured out why they werent holding. the bond strenght isnt there. if you have enough the pressure doesnt mind the bond as the bond with the glass is plenty and the pressure makes the silicone act like a rubber washer/gasket keeping it sealed but not really a true bond. I cant make myself reccomend an improper application to some one else even if it sometimes works, because chances are it may not work for them.
If your unable to get it to work and look pro do not discourage others whom can and do. It is not a improper application as it is made specifically for that application.
 

hurt

Active Member
Originally Posted by reefkprZ
http:///forum/post/2598749
well I suppose thats true, if you want to goop enough on it, it may hold. I personally like to keep my silicone lines looking like my tank corners, thin and discrete. as proffesional looking as a hack like me can manage. I like to use the right products for the application, and not chance possible faliure, sometimes like in your case it works, sometimes it doesnt (my first sump). after watching all of my baffels come loose over the course of 2 years I finnally figured out why they werent holding. the bond strenght isnt there. if you have enough the pressure doesnt mind the bond as the bond with the glass is plenty and the pressure makes the silicone act like a rubber washer/gasket keeping it sealed but not really a true bond. I cant make myself reccomend an improper application to some one else even if it sometimes works, because chances are it may not work for them.
It's for a FUGE, not a DT. Who cares if the lines are not professional looking? A fuge is supposed to be functional, not aesthetically pleasing. I can barely see into my fuge or any of the baffles because they are covered in coralline algae anyways. I make the recommendation because it will work as long as you use enough silicone and that is the question the bkvreef asked when he started this thread. It's not that difficult to do as you seem to imply. I've made two other refugiums for friends of mine the same way, and both of those fuges are more than 3 years old, and just as good as day one. None of the baffles have moved a bit. I'd say the bond strength is there when you have a one inch drop on a baffle, and it hasn't budged in 5 years...Goop it on and you will no problems at all...
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Fats71
http:///forum/post/2598764
It is not a improper application as it is made specifically for that application.
actually if you read a tube of silicone no where on it does it say bonds plastics, wood yes, metal yes, glass yes, plastics NO, therefore it is an improper application, even if it works some of the times. and it is not made for that application specificly.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
Originally Posted by Hurt
http:///forum/post/2598850
It's for a FUGE, not a DT. Who cares if the lines are not professional looking? A fuge is supposed to be functional, not aesthetically pleasing. I can barely see into my fuge or any of the baffles because they are covered in coralline algae anyways. I make the recommendation because it will work as long as you use enough silicone and that is the question the bkvreef asked when he started this thread. It's not that difficult to do as you seem to imply. I've made two other refugiums for friends of mine the same way, and both of those fuges are more than 3 years old, and just as good as day one. None of the baffles have moved a bit. I'd say the bond strength is there when you have a one inch drop on a baffle, and it hasn't budged in 5 years...Goop it on and you will no problems at all...
hey thats fine, if your not going for looks, I just put my views on it and explained why I like clean looking silicone lines, as for who cares. Obviously I do or I wouldnt have said I like clean looking lines. I never implied it was difficult to goop silicone on in large amounts, not once. I just stated that do the job with thin applications of silicone it wont work it doesnt bond properly. I did conceed that if you put plenty on there the bond with the glass will be probably be sufficient as the pressure makes the silicone like a rubber washer. I fail to see the conflict here.
 

reefkprz

Active Member
there is a perfiormance scale on the back of the tube of silicone 10 being best 0 being worst.
wood 7
metal 6
glass 10
vinyl siding 5
drywall plaster 10
Plastic/fiberglass 5
As you can see by the performance scale plastics are the worst bond of materials listed, glass is the best. so rather than say improper application I should have said a better application would be to use glass baffels with silicone rather than plastic baffels as the bond strength is much higher.
 

andy51632

Member
The thing that sucks with glass baffles is that you can not modify them. If the glass shop is off or your measurement by a little bit then you are up a creek. Is there any way to sand glass with a palm sander or something to trim off to fit better?
 

reefkprz

Active Member
yes there are honing stones (for drills dremels etc) you can use on glass as well as sand papers.
 
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