advice needed

[iluvfish]

I set up my 55gal saltwater tank at the end of February, so I am still very new to this. I have had some good luck, some bad. I am using a UGF (I know most people don't like these) with crushed coral. I have two 802 powerheads and a Seaclone protein skimmer. I'm wondering if I need a charcoal filter and if so, what do you recommend?
Currently in the tank is about 15 pounds of live rock, a puffer fish, a grouper, a clown fish, a carpet anemone, a snowflake eel, 2 damsels, and a long tentacle anemone. I have lost 3 mandarins and a couple of long tentacle anemones. I also lost an angel fish and a tang. I have 2 lights, both are 15FL. One says daytime and the other doesn't say anything. I would appreciate any advice on what I should do different and what fish might do as well as the ones I have alive currently. THANKS!

 

[justinx]

Welcome to the board! Well . . . for starters, I will just warn you now that you are going to catch some flak for your tank. Just fair warning, and dont take it personally.
Now . . . . a few things. For starters take the anemones out. Under that lighting they simply dont have a chance at survival. Just being honest here. Anemones require rather high powered lighting, and 30w of normal output flourescents just aint going to cut it. Whats going to happen is they will die and foul your water. So IMO, get rid of em now before they wreak havoc.
Secondly, you have what most people would consider an ill advised mix of fish. You have aggressive and docile fish housed in the same, small tank. (I know its 55 gallons, but yes this is considered small by many) Typically, people try and stick to a single theme. Either aggressive, or docile. But not a mix generally.
Third, get rid of the UGF and CC! I know that this is a big task, especially when your tank is rather fully stocked, but in the long run you will be much happier. Unless you leave it as only fish. THen you may be able to get away with it.
As for carbon . . . you dont need any special contraption to run carbon in your system unless you want it in there all the time, which a lot of people dont do. Personally, i only run carbon once a month for about 24-48 hours. When I do, I just put some carbon into a nylon and put the carbon filled nylon into a high flow area. THats all it takes.
Let me know if you have any more questions. And please by all means ask them! Dont get discouraged when people start flaming your . . .
Justin

 

[coloradodeb]

Please yes, ask questions!!! I started out with CC, boy what a mistake! But before your tank gets any more in it, do yourself a favor and change to sand. I wish I would have. Lights are also an important factor to consider......you may be wasting money on fish and other creatures trying to keep them under NO (normal output). I am also a beginner, but tis board has overwhelmingly helped me, and now my tank is showing it! Welcome to the Board and Good luck!

 

[thomas712]

Welcome to the forum.
Now can I slap you? Just kidding.
You are moving way to fast and have way to much that you shouldn't (in my OPINION) in that tank.
Lets start with the mandarin. Do you have the pod population to feed him..Thats live food. It is recommended to have much more live rock than you have just to support a mandarin. With your setup I see a hard time for any mandarin to live in your 55.
Yes I would run some type of mechanical filtration with your UGF and crushed coral, and I would have a good supply of carbon on hand. I've been there, same size tank, UGF, and nearly 3 inches of crushed coral. I would recommend the Penquin bio wheel filters for your tank 2 of the 400's if possible.
Carpet anemone, say goodbye to some of your fish, and that anemone will (If it lives) out grow that 55.
A Grouper in a 55, will also out grow the 55.
Tangs also do not belong in a 55 ( just my opinion again)
Your system is still kinda young for any anemone, most will not live, 6 months.
Your lighting is also not enough for an anemone to survive.
I tried in my early years to keep an anemone alive under 80 watts of standard lighting, killed condy's and almost killed my BTA until I upgraded and now it not only thrives but has split three times.
OK enough of that.
I would first look for some books and read up on this hobby as well as visit and read the posts here daily.
Sorry if this advice is not to your likeing but I would also take the carpet anemone, grouper, any mandarins, and any other anemones back. Stop learning the hard way.
Before you purchase anymore livestock, I implore you to reasearch it first, find out what it takes to feed it, and keep it alive, compatibility, water quality, find out anything you can to keep an animal alive with success.
Cant help you on the eels and puffers as I have never had them.
There are reasons to get rid of the UGF and crushed coral. If you want to know why I can tell you.
Finally it sounds like your 55 is overstocked and this will cause stress and illenss in your fish.
Sorry to sound hard nosed I just giving you my honest opinon and experience.
Thomas

 

[iluvfish]

Thanks to you both. I appreciate any advice! I definitely want this to be a success! What lighting is recommended for anemones?

 

[iluvfish]

Thanks Tom,
Instead of telling me why to get rid of UGF and CC - tell me what you recommend for a filter system. I might as well get it right the first time.
Amy

 

[thomas712]

First choice of filtraton is natural.
That is sand and live rock. Aragonite sand is the best, calcium carbonate rock is the best. Both are calcium carbonate based just like the ocean reefs.
Sand can be from the LFS dry in bags, Live from LFS, online Like Here, just push the live sand button on the left to view prices. Or something like Southdown, Yardright, or Old castle playsand is the perfect type of sand to use. Some say use a DSB or deep sand bed of about 4 inches to 6 inches, I prefer a shallow one only 2 inches.
This sand will hold far more bacteria then your crushed coral could hope for. Sand has a far greater surface area.
Rocks can be liverock from LFS or online like the button on the left again. or you can have baserock that is also orderable and still calcium carbonate based.
Both sand and rock are the basis for your tanks natural filtration.
Next is mechanical. On a 55 my first choice would be wet/dry or sump using either an internal (You would have to drain your tank and drill for internal) or external overflows. This overflow would skimm the top of your water colum, and in the case of a wet/dry prefilter your water with filter floss, and then go over the bio balls and pick up oxygen and break down the ammonia and nitrites in to nitrates, which can also be broken down by the sand bed.
Penquin 400 filters, with carbon pads and biowheels would be another choice for your 55, like I said I would use two of them.
And any protien skimmer is almost better than no protien skimmer. IMO the in sump work the best, then the more expensive hang on ones. If it is less than $100 bucks its probably not worth it
Thomas
2900

 

[karajay]

Originally posted by Thomas712
Stop learning the hard way.

This is truly outstanding advice and probably the reason some of us are here. Thanks Thomas

 

[iluvfish]

Thomas recommended that I read up on this hobby. Does anyone have any good books to recommend for me?

 

[justinx]

There are lots of great books out there. Some are geared more towards the beginner, and some are more complex. I would suggest reading either one of two books to start off with. The concientious marine aquariust, or The Natural Reef by John Tullock. I read the natural reef, and I have a much better understanding of reefing as a whole, not just a hobby. It gives some great suggestions for tank set ups, and it goes into enough detail that you get the point, but not bogged down with nitty gritty details. Either of these two books are a great place to start. No point in reading both of them though as you will find by glancing through them that they are very similar, so much so that they use many of the same photographs.
Also, reading around on here is a great place, almost better than a book!
Justin

 

[marvida]

These are the books I have found to be of value. Some of them might be more specific than you need unless your interests lean in that direction.
1.) The Conscientious Marine Aquarist
- Robert M. Fenner
2.) Reef Secrets
- Nilsen & Fossa
3.) Invertabrates, A Quick Reference Guide
- Julian Sprung
4.) Aquarium Corals
- Borneman
5.) Giant Clams, A Comprehensive Guide
- Daniel Knop

 

[justinx]

Originally posted by MarVida
These are the books I have found to be of value. Some of them might be more specific than you need unless your interests lean in that direction.
1.) The Conscientious Marine Aquarist
- Robert M. Fenner
2.) Reef Secrets
- Nilsen & Fossa
3.) Invertabrates, A Quick Reference Guide
- Julian Sprung
4.) Aquarium Corals
- Borneman
5.) Giant Clams, A Comprehensive Guide
- Daniel Knop
DONT TRUST EM! (Shh . . . they work for the government )
Just kidding! (couldn't resist myself)
Justin

 

[marvida]

Trust me, I'm from the Government I'm here to help!

 

[thomas712]

Book of Coral Propagation, Volume 1: Reef Gardening for Aquarists - Anthony Rosario Calfo
Reef Fishes Volume 1 - Scott W. Michael
Corals: A Quick Reference Guide (Oceanographic Series) - Julian Sprung
A Commonsense Handbook for Successful Saltwater Hobbyists - Robert M. Fenner
The New Marine Aquarium: Step-By-Step Setup & Stocking Guide - Michael S. Paletta
Aquarium Corals : Selection, Husbandry, and Natural History - Eric H. Borneman
Natural Reef Aquariums: Simplified Approaches to Creating Living Saltwater Microcosms - John H. Tullock
Aquarium Corals by Eric H. Borneman,
Natural Reef Aquariums by John H. Tullock, Martin A. Moe
The New Marine Aquarium by Michael S. Paletta,
The Conscientious Marine Aquarist is a very good book to start with.